22 replies to this topic

[Winno]

Head to amp: Monster Cable 1m M850i M Series interconnect.

Amp to splits: Nordost Flatline 2

Amp to subs: Live Lines 84 strand (you wont find this stuff for sale...my Dad had the patent for it, sold it and the new owner just sits on it.)

Battery to head unit: Rockford 10 guage.
Battery to amp: Monster Standard Power 4.

Some points...I'd really like to use all Monster or all Nordost. I'm a firm believer in keeping all cables the same. The Nordost interconnects I like aren't shielded and the Monster M Series speaker cable is too fat for the doors.

[ January 02, 2003, 20:17: Message edited by: Winno ]

[shiny_car]

if you can afford premium stuff, go for it. but IMO, it's not good value stuff. instead of spending an extra $200 on cabling/terminals, you'll get a definite improvement in spending that extra on speakers instead.

ok, that was generally speaking, and i know you're already setup with your components.

as you expect, there is added build quality in spending a bit more, especially with terminals/DBs/etc.

i primarily use stinger stuff, but also a mix of aerpro for wiring:

*power to amps: 0awg to DB, 4awg to main amps, 8awg to smaller amps
*groundwires: 2x 4awg battery, 0awg stereo, 0awg engine
*stinger terminals/DBs
*(with system upgrade: ) 5 amplifiers, total system rated power 1510WRMS on tap

*separate power to inside cabin (HU, neons, PS2, monitor): 8awg to DB, 12awg to HU, 12awg to relay for accessories
*groundwire: 8awg

*speakerwire: 16awg +14awg
*sub speakerwire: 12awg

*RCAs: stinger helix + hyper

i believe 16awg speakerwire is more than adequate for speakers (typical length ~3.5m to the front from boot). maybe 14awg if running high power (>150WRMS).

i really like stinger stuff for its high build quality and the plethora of variety in terminals, fuseholders, DBs, etc. they always have something available to suit my needs. and certainly where it's on view to onlookers, i use stinger.....rice!

only some of my 0awg and speakerwire is aerpro. which, for wire, i find perfectly adequate and good value.



[ January 02, 2003, 20:52: Message edited by: shiny_car ]

[Mickee]

Quote

Originally posted by shiny_car:


plethora

IMO, soft core OFC power cable (such as that used for car audio) isn't suited to be used as the main lines from the car alternator to the battery, and battery to ground...

I use 200amp stiff core battery cable for these duties.

My cabling:

Alternator to battery - 200amp stiff core
Battery to ground - 3x 200amp stiff core
Battery to Distro block - 0awg Streetwires
Distro block to amps - 2awg Response
Amps to ground - 2awg Response
Amp to front splits - 12ga response
Amp to subs - 8awg Response
Battery to HU - 12ga response
RCA's - Stinger Bullet (silver twisted pair ones)
Terminals/Distro/fuses - Stinger

(My thinking is that, when it comes to power cabling, OFC copper is OFC copper... so I beleive the reponse/jaycar cable is as good as anything else. I do use high quality terminals and RCA's though.)

[Walkinshaw]

Where did you get Streetwires from?!!

Have you had it for a while, or is it avalable again in Australia?!

[Mickee]

I got it from Ange at Complete Audio... told him I needed a bit of 0awg (just from rear battery to Distro and for rear battery ground) and he pulled it out and handed it to me....

I don't know where you'd get it usually though... maybe ask Ange if he can get it in for ya??

[Macca]

to me power and speaker wire is just wire. I will just buy a 30m roll of Jaycar Heavy Duty Speaker cable (Cat. WB-1709) for $19 would do a whole system for a decent price

If its too small you can get a Extra Heavy Duty 30m roll for $60 (Cat. WB-1713)

But one think i WANT to know is, how the hell do you guys cut 0awg i had to use a hack saw to cut 4awg and stainly knive to stip it

[ January 03, 2003, 11:34: Message edited by: Macca ]

[Mickee]

Quote

Originally posted by Macca:

But one think i WANT to know is, how the hell do you guys cut 0awg     i had to use a hack saw to cut 4awg and stainly knive to stip it  

I can get through 4awg with a decent pair of pliers, no worries. For 0awg, I cut the insulation with a stanley knife, then hacksaw through it....

[NUTTTR]

go to **** smith or something, they have "wire cutters" that have curved blades... these find it hard to cut through the cable, but 2 tries and you are through 0ga... one go for 4ga
Aaron

[shiny_car]

what are all the amps you'll be using?

the VRx6.420 alone is rated at 470WRMS into 4ohm, all channels driven for your front stage. so it warrants 4~6awg by itself.

so depending on the power of your subamp and any other amps you'll use, you could do with 4awg main power, but likely 2awg or 0awg, feeding to a DB then onto the amps. with 4awg to each amp.

later...

[shiny_car]

ah ok, sweet. that'll be a lot of power on tap: 470 (@ 13.8V) and ~900WRMS (@ 14.4V).

but of course it depends how the gains are set, and when listening to music, you'll use less than half that most of the time.

i'd recommend at least 2awg main powerwire feeding to a DB. then 4awg to each amp. the 1507 may not accept 4awg straight into its terminal, in which case you can use an adaptor:



stinger S48ADAPT: accepts 4awg, and has an 8awg post. street price is ~$12 a piece; you may want one for +ve and -ve wires.

i have some spare so let me know if you wanna have a look and see if they suit.

unfortunately 2awg wiring and terminals are tuff to find. jaycar offer them, but stinger doesn't, and i have a feeling you'd prefer something like stinger. which would leave only 4awg or 0awg.

4awg main powerwire, into a DB, and continuing as 4awg to the amps, would be ok. certainly for normal listening. but if you go on to crank it really, really hard, you may see a voltage drop to the amp terminals if the wire cannot deliver the necessary power. 0awg is expensive that's all.



[ January 04, 2003, 17:14: Message edited by: shiny_car ]

[shiny_car]

jaycar, and i believe aerpro (which offers nicer looking clear-jacket wire) offer 2awg. aerpro may have to be ordered in by most places, like jb hifi.

terminals may be more difficult to source. whilst i haven't tried, i presume you can get a safe and solid fix into 0awg terminals from stinger and others.