Sub lag - delay fronts?
#1
Posted 22 March 2003 - 01:47 PM
Note: the system is intended for SQ
I have tried reversing the polarity of the sub but there was no change. I have just read a topic about using the time alignment feature in most high end HUs to delay the fronts long enough for the sub to appear in sync. I'm happy with my HU so I don't want to replace it so is there any way to do this without a high end HU?
#2
Posted 22 March 2003 - 01:52 PM
#3
Posted 22 March 2003 - 01:57 PM
how much delay really depends on the car and it's system set up.
[ March 22, 2003, 11:58: Message edited by: Dr DJ Choss ]
#4
Posted 23 March 2003 - 02:02 AM
#5
Posted 23 March 2003 - 02:13 AM
#6
Posted 23 March 2003 - 02:20 AM
#7
Posted 22 March 2003 - 03:31 PM
Quote
What about my sub amp? Could upgrading it boost the sub's accuracy and SQ? The Jaycar Response amps aren't exactly known for their SQ
I am using the bass focus function on my HU in addition to time correction for my front stage and i can tell you it makes a big difference.
I also reversed the polarity of my sub via HU, and it seems to improve slightly, but its quite a minimal effect so it may be all just in my head
#8
Posted 22 March 2003 - 04:02 PM
By using a 400uF 100volt capacitor on the front speakers this will shift the fronts phasing 90degrees, effectively you will now notive a difference when you swap the polarity, one will be have tighter bass.
Another big thing is that the JL subs dont suit ported box's that much, so i would change to a sealed box if its ported. If the ported box is tuned high-ish (35hz) then the group delay would be high around that frequency. Reducing the tuning frequency to 25hz will reduce the lag on the sub.
Firing backwards or rear loading in a sedan can often cause alot of panels to vibrate liek the boot lid. These panels continue to vibrate after each bass beat, makign the bass sound loose like it is lagging. Deadening your boot should improve this also.
Firing forward will improve the tightness and get rid of the delay.
There are more expensive options such as buying a headunit with time delay but i would definitely try the above before you start spending lot sof money on new equipment.
Personally i would go with a small monoblock as your next upgrade, a 1ohm stable 400wrms coustic amp would blow the jaycar amp away and dramatically increase dynamics, volume and SQ in general
#9
Posted 22 March 2003 - 08:43 PM
#10
Posted 23 March 2003 - 03:28 AM
It's sealed, about 40L (hard to remember - I made it a fair while ago) and it fires into the cabin.
#11
Posted 23 March 2003 - 03:31 AM
#12
Posted 23 March 2003 - 11:57 AM
is the front/baffle of the box 'sealed' up against the back of the seat? or does subbass soundwaves travel around the sides around the back into the rest of the boot too? it would be worth building some contoured mdf side-baffles to seal the box right up to the seat.
otherwise, i think you would get a significant improvement in subbass quality with a good monobloc subamp. however, it would be fairly costly in your situation because your 'D2' sub can only be configured for 4ohm or 1ohm. and entry-level monoblocs produce relatively poor power at 4ohm, and 1ohm stable monoblocs are expensive. so either way, you'd probaby need to spend about $1K for a suitable amp.
not sure there's anything else i can recommend here. you could try facing the sub in a different direction, say sideways, and see if that helps.
good luck
#13
Posted 23 March 2003 - 12:05 PM
How much is that 1ohm stable coustic amp that Maz mentioned a few posts ago worth?
#14
Posted 23 March 2003 - 12:28 PM
Quote
How much is that 1ohm stable coustic amp that Maz mentioned a few posts ago worth?
#15
Posted 23 March 2003 - 03:15 PM
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