15 replies to this topic

[stoff]

hey,

what do you guys think of the jl audio 500/1 amp compored to the M500..is it worth the extra $200 difference in price?
the JL will prolly produce more real life power wont it? because of its regulated power supply etc..whereas the alpine will never reach its 14.4V rating?
wat about SQ..is there much difference between these 2 amps?
and if i get a sub to run on the JL is it best to get a 4ohm or dual 4..since the JL will produce the same power to both loads

thanks

[Provo]

Are you serious? Even at idle I get 14.4 on my M500 volt meter... Plus you'll be getting about 630RMS, rated anyways... Not sure if the JL will be under rated... Yes the JL puts out 500RMS at 4 ohms though! But the features on the M500 are insane!! I cant comment on the JL b/c i dont have first hand experiances...but the M500 is impressive. I personally would say for a 2 ohm load go for the M500, and for a 4 ohm load the JL. But I really like the built in volt meter on the M500...
Cheers,
Joe

[shiny_car]

Quote

Originally posted by Provo:
Even at idle I get 14.4 on my M500 volt meter... Plus you'll be getting about 630RMS, rated anyways.

it's pretty unusual for an alternator to deliver as much as 14.4V. most cars are somewhat lower, around 14.0. i think mine is as high as 14.2V with the stereo off.

the benefit of the JL is its stiffly regulated power supply. which means (theoretically), when you drive the stereo hard, plus add in all the other electrical demands of the car, any fluctuations/drops in voltage won't affect the power output from the amp.

i certainly notice that my voltmeter demonstrates major fluctuations/sags in voltage when i doof hard. it's unavoidable in any system for there's no practical car electrical system capable of maintaining its own stiffly regulated supply to your amps. even large farad caps have limited benefit.

it's not to say the alpine monobloc is not a good thing, and in reality, you don't audibly notice any voltage fluctuations that, presumably, manifest as power output fluctations.

so it would boil down to the differing features as much as anything. and i've heard good performance reports for both amps. critter loves his JL 500/1 which drives his kicker L7 with ease. still, something tells me the JL is a classier amp.

good luck deciding.

[Sonic Nirvana]

Can't say well enough about the JL 500/1.
Very classy amp with immense flexibility, strong power across a variety of loads and voltages, well-made ans quality connections.

Sound is fabulously tight, clean and smooth.

I'm not a big fan of the "get what I got" post, but I know a number of people with these things and they are all very impressed with the product, it is really excellent.

[shiny_car]

Quote

Originally posted by Critter:
really excellent.

even fully sik.

[stoff]

thanks for the replies..
but u reckon its worth the extra money??

can a JLW3v2 take the power of the jl500/1? or a type r? or would i be better off getting 2 w3's/type r's etc..

thanks

[shiny_car]

something like the JL would let you get the very best from a sub like the W3 or type-R.

the alpine is no doubt an excellent amp too. i have not compared these side by side, but IMO, i wouldn't expect much if any audible difference.

i view the alpine as being better value.

good luck

[Brucee]

my friend achive 142.8db in his civic, with only 2 image dynamic IDQV2 (12inch) and one JL 500 amp

[PartyJase]

i've got one (jl 500) and i love it. its easily makes its rated power - theres an review floating round of it and it put out something like 720wrms dynamic and 630wrms load at 4ohms!! search google for it.

running a jl w3 off it gains at set at 1/4 or just below - anything more than that the sub just goes beserk!

can't comment on the m500 but i would presume it has a few more features (TA apparently?) than the Jl due to it being a newer model.

also i think a bonus of the JL is the regulated power supply. I've got mine in a small car and big bass hits don't aren't putting hte electrical system under a much bigger load than normal.

downside is that its not 1ohm stable - but if you've got a sub thats dvc2+2 then wire it at 4ohms and get the same kinda power!

w3v2 should take the power (its rated at more than the w3) - just go easy on the gains.

my (big) two cents

[stoff]

cool thanks for that
i guess i will be happy with either amp..
with the JL, what would i be better running it at? 4 or 2 ohms? i read the specs..and at 4ohms it has a much greater damping factor..

also, whats the fuse rating on the JL? and also how much current is it likely to actually draw with normal listening..

thanks

[Mr_Bob]

the JL is pretty efficient from what i hear, the current draw is reasonable, but not somethign that will cause a problem, i think it's fused 60A
street price is ~$850-900 too, i'm not sure what the street price is on the alpine.

and yes i also saw the review showing that hte JL put out 700+WRMS into a reactive load,
and 630ish into a static load.
th damping factor is substantial, and in Critter's 500/1 and L7 combo sounds a treat, no risk

[Sonic Nirvana]

Quote

Originally posted by stoff:
and at 4ohms it has a much greater damping factor..

also, whats the fuse rating on the JL? and also how much current is it likely to actually draw with normal listening..

thanks

All amps have a higher damping factor at 4 ohms than 2, it is the relationship between the output impedance and the load that determines damping factor.
Therefore: 500 at 4 ohms, 250 at 2 ohms etc (which is plenty so you couldn't tell any difference btw....)

The inline fuse of the JL is actually 50 amps, they are not as efficient as some Class D amps, but heaps more than any Class A/B.

After my Kicker ZR amp where I had significant lights-dimming on big hits, the JL is very electrical-system friendly

[blade55]

The inline fuse of the JL is actually 50 amps, they are not as efficient as some Class D amps, but heaps more than any Class A/B.

are you kidding my m300 has a 40 amp fuse

[PartyJase]

50A is what the JL manual says. i doubt you'll get to drawing that unless your using it for SPL burbs and pushing it too hard. or system is shorting somewhere