6 replies to this topic

[toman]

Hey,

im looking at getting a nice pair of sq based subs and im looking at a pair of 10" jl w6v2's running off about 800rms in a sealed box. i want something that has very controlled tight but deep bass i listen to a lot of heavy metal with very fast double kicks (think fear factory) but i also listen to a bit of drum and bass so i need deep when required.

is the setup i suggested the right choice for the type of music i listen to? i live in tasmania so there is basically nowhere you can demo this sort of thing

also would 12" be fast enough because i would like the extra grunt if i can get away with it without losing punch and speed

thanks

[Damon]

There should be no 'speed' difference between the two woofers so long as group delay is identical for both enclosure designs.

When you do a cost vs enclosure size vs SPL potential comparison the single 12 inch makes more sense. Just stick with a sealed enclosure design offering a Qts of under 0.85 or thereabout and it should rock.

[Bassaholic]

Damon said:

There should be no 'speed' difference between the two woofers so long as group delay is identical for both enclosure designs.  

Yes and the group delay is directly related to the Qtc and response curve, so theoretically you can have speakers of any size that have the same "speed". In reality, quality manufacturers (I would consider JL audio to be one of these) do try to make the 12s and 10s sound very similar.

[jas]

answer high quality high output midbass drivers

the best driver would be an 8inch designed for IB...pitty the JL IB8 is not in production anymore

just remember that the kick you are after is midbass....not sub-bass

also i would personally use a ported box...higher output and lower distortion above tuning frequency.

[Damon]

Well, if he's after a good solid thud in the chest I'd say he needed to move some air. While there is plenty of midbass there, moving air takes cone displacement!

[toman]

yeah i sorta want something that kicks me in the chest but isnt boomy and i havent heard many systems that do this in my local area hehe

im a bit of a noob at audio stuff so i thought 10" would be fast, so really cone size doesnt matter? i found the 10" rf subs much clearer and punchier than the 12"s in the local car audio shop





will my alpine spr-175a splits running off a clarion 2x50rms amp be powerful enough for midbass for a system like the one i suggested? they can excurt pretty far and once i run a high pass?(the one the cuts the low frequencys) they will stop over excurting and distorting at high volumes because of less sub bass right? it should be a pretty decent system with my alpine 9807 hu right? im not really after spl or anything just loudish when wanted and nice sound quality

[shiny_car]

toman said:

i found the 10" rf subs much clearer and punchier than the 12"s in the local car audio shop

quite often the subs on a demo board in a shop are installed into 'boxes' which do not suit the sub. it's not practical for a store to custom build an optimal box for every sub they offer for demo. and in reality, 'one box fits all' does not apply. as such, the 12" subs you heard may have been in a less than ideal setup so not truly representative of their performance.

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will my alpine spr-175a splits running off a clarion 2x50rms amp be powerful enough for midbass for a system like the one i suggested?

they'll be ok. sound deadening the doors, sealing off the large service holes and major leaks will improve their performance. the setups that tend to offer the best 'kick' utilise 8" door-woofers.

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they can excurt pretty far and once i run a high pass?(the one the cuts the low frequencys) they will stop over excurting and distorting at high volumes because of less sub bass right?

they'll be far better with a HP filter in place in terms of power handling.

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it should be a pretty decent system with my alpine 9807 hu right? im not really after spl or anything just loudish when wanted and nice sound quality

should be good. hopefully you'll be happy.