10 replies to this topic

[DaN tHe MaN]

i just had a look at the soundproofing tutorial link from another post, and was wondering how much it owuld cost to do a door as outlined in the tutorial?

by this, i mean the outer and inner skins as well as the trim...

i know there are various brands and prices out there, but was hoping people could tell me how much i would be up for if i were to do this with average class deadening...

also how much extra would it be to do it with high grade stuff?

thanks...

[paddles]

I got a dynamat extreme door kit for $170 - IMO the best stuff to get... will do 2 large doors, will cost a lot in time to do it though

[DaN tHe MaN]

paddles, does that kit have enough to do everything which is shown in the tuteorial? 170 seems rather cheap considering it can do two doors...

when you say two doors, does this include the inner and outer door skins plus the door trim?

if it helps, im only putting in $300-$500 splits, running off a small amp, so im not going to be running an extremely high powered setup...

ive seen people just doing around the speaker, and not completely covering the door as shown in teh tute...i know 'the more the better' rule applies with deadening, but would this be necessary considering i am only installing an 'averagish' system?

cheers for your help

[paddles]

A dynamat extreme door kit will be enough for a decent set up will cover enough of your doors to be highly effective, although if you want to go crazy buy two kits, but one will be enough for your set up, of course you will need tools and some mdf, but that wont cost much... all the rest of the pieces are cheap its the dynamat and man hours that will cost you

[lc boi]

slightley offtopic, is deadening the outer skin of the door good or bad? i have heard diferent things. aparentley deadening it will stop the midbass from bouncing back properley. i personaly think it would eliminate a lot of road noise, what are your oppinions?

[2LOUD2OLD]

so is $170 about right for the 2 door kit or what?? I was just wondering this too. Also just how long will it take to do both doors? Will it take a whole day or maybe even two or three??

[chan]

i sealed my doors for less than a 100 bucks. i applied 3 layers of underbody deadener with paint bush on the inner skin and outter skin. fill the big holes with mdfs. of cos i drilled a couple to secure the mdfs. the used some alternative deadening mat to seal the uneven holes and the small holes.

underbody deadener $14
paint bush $2
mdf $10
screws and nuts r from my tool box
sealant $2
deadening mat $22 (off a CAA member)

Total cost = $48

Effort = 1 hot afternoon to apply the underbody deadener + another afternoon to secure the mdf's and stick on the mat

[BlackRain]

if u know what you're doing..the deadening will probably take a couple of hours, once you have your door trims off and stuff.

I've seen bodgy jobs completed in the space of about half an hour.

[chan]

BlackRain said:

if u know what you're doing..the deadening will probably take a couple of hours, once you have your door trims off and stuff.

I've seen bodgy jobs completed in the space of about half an hour.

agree but if u r using only mat. for the spray or paint type deadeners u have to wait for drying between layers...

[paddles]

lc boi said:

slightley offtopic, is deadening the outer skin of the door good or bad? i have heard diferent things. aparentley deadening it will stop the midbass from bouncing back properley. i personaly think it would eliminate a lot of road noise, what are your oppinions?

Deadening the outer skin will improve midbass more and stop back panel distorting, ie the midbass wave hitting the panel behind and bouncing straight back into the speaker itself. PLus roadnoise will be down, typically u can expect 3dB less noise when upgrading a new car, and up to 9dB when soundproofing an old hunk like mine...

[lc boi]

exelent mate. so i assume my torana will loose about 9db road noise lol. i take it i would be wise to deaden the outer skin of the back doors too?? possibley also the transmision tunnel, and the bits of the rear wheel arches that are in the cab.