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Should a 10"sub be used with an 18" sub setup?


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#1 static existence

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Posted 21 February 2005 - 06:42 PM

As in run at full pass or high pass because of the loss of frequency between the 6.5" and the 18"due to the 18" making the low stuff. i will have 3 ways in the front, or maybe it run LP to make some good SQ.
I installed a set of blauhpunkt 3ways with an 8" woofer in my gfs car and she has a 12" sub and it sounds kinda crappy.
but would it be a good idea?

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#2 Blackrazor

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Posted 21 February 2005 - 08:07 PM

Depends on the subs and speakers used. If your 18" and 6.5" are good enough to play up to meet each other cleanly in the frequency spectrum, theres no need :)

#3 Mr_Bob

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Posted 21 February 2005 - 08:10 PM

depends on the 18", but if you're having trouble, try upgrading to a pair of 8's.
my rule of thumb is that the diameter of the midwoofer should be more than 1/2 the diameter of you subwoofer.
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#4 Captn_Awesome

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Posted 22 February 2005 - 11:14 AM

What about using an 8" or 10" bass driver (not a sub)

#5 Blackrazor

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Posted 22 February 2005 - 11:41 AM

Um, whats the difference? :P

#6 Bassaholic

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Posted 22 February 2005 - 01:28 PM

Well it really depends on the LP and the sub itself.

The "rules of thumb" that are based on the diameters of the midbass and woofer are not real world at all. Based on cone diameter, an 18" can play well above 500hz+ without problems. The inductance is the dominating factor limiting the high frequency response.
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#7 Mr_Bob

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Posted 22 February 2005 - 01:43 PM

IMO the benefit of large cone area will be lost if a corresponding front stage isn't chosen.
what's the point of having large amounts of bass on-tap, wihtouth having enough midbass for it to integrate properly.
sure, an 18" driver isn't supposed to suffer from beaming until 733Hz, by my experiences show me that having 4" drivers with 12" subs, or 5.25" drivers with 15" subs just isn't a good mix when it comes time to tune.
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#8 Maz

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Posted 22 February 2005 - 02:01 PM

I definitely reccon u will need a huge front stage to keep up. The amount of volume a 18inch will put out you'll need atleast 8inch fronts.

I plan on filling my wagon up with six 15inch subs in a few months, so i bought a pair of 10inch freeair subs to mount in each front door to provide the tight bass, these should keep up fairly well i hope.

U'd need custom pods to fit 8's into a 300zx
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#9 static existence

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Posted 22 February 2005 - 03:37 PM

i have focal utopia 3 ways. which will run off my PPI PCX4125. bridged so 500wRMS.
And the sub is an 18" audiobahn which will run off an e-audio 3000D, 2000wRMS @2ohm
and maz yea 8" imo will stick out a bit too far in the doors.
would having the 8"or10"s drivers in the back sound weird? it wont sound like its coming from the rear if its LP will it?
And mr bob i agree, my last install when played loud was either bass or sound from the tweeter. i couldnt hear anythign else.

#10 Bassaholic

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Posted 23 February 2005 - 04:03 PM

Mr_Bob said:

IMO the benefit of large cone area will be lost if a corresponding front stage isn't chosen.
what's the point of having large amounts of bass on-tap, wihtouth having enough midbass for it to integrate properly.
sure, an 18" driver isn't supposed to suffer from beaming until 733Hz, by my experiences show me that having 4" drivers with 12" subs, or 5.25" drivers with 15" subs just isn't a good mix when it comes time to tune.

Tuning is easy, you just turn the subwoofer level down. :P

Nah, I agree that having tons of linear displacement from the subwoofer(s) on tap is kind of pointless for SQ if your front stage can't keep up. (but thats not just about cone area, but xmax and power too...)

Also, its not just the midbass drivers that will struggle to keep up, but the whole front stage. (although with horns and large midbass drivers would have a bit more chance of keeping up)

Quote

would having the 8"or10"s drivers in the back sound weird? it wont sound like its coming from the rear if its LP will it?

It would be pointless having 10" or 8" at the rear because it would sound virtually the same as if the 18" at the rear of the car was covering that same bass range.
If you want to run 8"s or 10"s to cover the midbass then they have to be mounted up front.
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#11 Mr_Bob

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Posted 23 February 2005 - 04:09 PM

i agree BassA, except that the most noticeable part of the frequency imbalance is often the midbass integration, as a surprising number of people are happy to listen to a system with 9-12dB less midrange and treble!

my inference was that the "upgrade to 8's" would be replacemetns for the midbass drivers upfront. putting them in the boot would be pointless.
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#12 static existence

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Posted 23 February 2005 - 07:53 PM

yea. but in a 300. you can mount the woofers virtually right behind your head. 30cm away. which would be closer than having them in the front, aswell as the fact that woofers in the doors are muffled buy your legs.
i spose i will have to trial and error.
thanks for your help

#13 gooki

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Posted 26 February 2005 - 03:39 PM

Quote

you can mount the woofers virtually right behind your head

Which is the perfect way to destroy your stero sound stage. Please don't do it.





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