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Tutorial - Sound Deadening a Vehicle


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#1 Marc ♫

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Posted 31 March 2005 - 02:14 PM

Discussion from Technical Article

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#2 pigphama

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Posted 31 March 2005 - 03:33 PM

A very accurate and informative tutorial. If people follow this they should have no problems.

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#3 UnsettledHawk

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Posted 13 April 2005 - 08:28 PM

Good work Marc, I'll be doing that very soon (don't be suprised if you get a PM from me). How convenient, you did a Lancer too :D

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#4 dangerous_daveo

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Posted 15 April 2005 - 09:59 PM

Awesome. Out of interest, how much product was used on that? Just so we have a rough idea, dont want to be going back down to the shop 3 times to get more :P

Im a bit scared of doing it to the Cef as if I stuff something, its stuffed, no hope of going down to the wreckers for a new one. But then Im missing so much of the music I listen to its gota be done.

#5 grandmasterb

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Posted 03 May 2005 - 09:29 PM

Is this hard if you have never done anything like this before? What should i be budgeting to do 2 doors and is the jaycar stuff ok to use as living in Tassie i dont have to many options for sound deadening materials to buy off the shelf.

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#6 SILVR6

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Posted 04 May 2005 - 12:06 AM

looking at the new jaycar catalogue (i love it :)) they have sound deander new and improved :).
unsure what you need, ebcause you can get
"Sound deadner acousitc sound absorbing deadning material" (2x330mmsquare $26.95)
"Heavy Duty sound barrier absorbing/damping material"675(l)x330(w)x6mm thick for $18.50 and "Sound barrier damping material"700x330x2.3mm thick for $11.25

What would be needed, the acoustic deadner and the damping material?? Is jaycar that good compared to dynmat etc.

#7 niteflyer

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Posted 04 May 2005 - 12:19 AM

jaycar sound deadening does not have an adhesive side to it from memory...and so you would have to go to the hardware store and buy Pressure Sensitive Adhesive, same stuff used for flooring and such...

just too messy and tedious for my liking but I would imagine if you do it right it would acheive similar sound deadening effects as the other well known products

#8 Jesper

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Posted 04 May 2005 - 12:27 AM

I believe the first one has an adhesive surface and is similiar to the Dynamat and Flashtac type products (foil with tar like substance).

Whereas the thicker stuff does not have any adhesive. And is slightly different than Dynamat etc, looking at the website it's kinda like vinyl impregnanted with Barium for weight. The $18.50 one has a rubber foam attached too.

#9 Pumped

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Posted 27 May 2005 - 09:41 AM

i used some of the adhesive backed SD from jaycar, its ok, seems a bit thin to me, ive also used Stinger roadkill, id go stinger over the Jaycar stuff any day.
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#10 travtocool

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Posted 24 September 2005 - 12:07 AM

wow, i cut out pieces of mdf and stuck it in the service hols with tape, havnt used sound deadener or anything and the speakers sound at least twice as good! only cost me $10 aswell, for all you people without the money to buy sound deadener i recommend you do that.

#11 MADTRAV

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Posted 11 November 2005 - 05:24 PM

another method is to resin coat your mdf so it doen't warp with water and use urethane to hold them in place, that way if you ever need to access the holes you can just cut the urethane with a blade.

Just to note, i use 20sqft of stinger expert roadkill on the front doors of VT-VZ Commodores. they go hard
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#12 MarZer

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Posted 13 November 2005 - 08:13 PM

Great tutorial, followed it today to do my EA falcon doors.

3 sheets of Dynamat Xtreme (Door Kit) managed to do most of the inside of the two doors. Wondering what to do with the left over sheet - should I open up the doors again and do the inside surface of the outer skin of the door? Or perhaps do some more to the inside of the trims? hmmmn.....

#13 Stone

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Posted 13 November 2005 - 09:51 PM

Thin aluminium sheeting can be used in place of MDF.

#14 rhysy_boi

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Posted 14 November 2005 - 12:38 AM

i'd go for a 0.060" aluminium sheet jsut to be sure. on service holes it shouldn't flex unless they are big.

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#15 Guest_Liquidity_*

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Posted 03 December 2005 - 02:44 AM

Just another note. The edges of any thin sheet metal can be very sharp, so be careful. Also, that urethane idea is gold, pity i didnt think of it :(

I'm going to re-do all my service holes at some stage, i've been worrying too much about moisture-take up of mdf. I dont think i sufficiently sealed my MDF before i installed it.





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