Tutorial - Sound Deadening a Vehicle
#1
Posted 31 March 2005 - 02:14 PM
#2
Posted 31 March 2005 - 03:33 PM
#3
Posted 13 April 2005 - 08:28 PM
#4
Posted 15 April 2005 - 09:59 PM
Im a bit scared of doing it to the Cef as if I stuff something, its stuffed, no hope of going down to the wreckers for a new one. But then Im missing so much of the music I listen to its gota be done.
#5
Posted 03 May 2005 - 09:29 PM
Cheers GMB
#6
Posted 04 May 2005 - 12:06 AM
unsure what you need, ebcause you can get
"Sound deadner acousitc sound absorbing deadning material" (2x330mmsquare $26.95)
"Heavy Duty sound barrier absorbing/damping material"675(l)x330(w)x6mm thick for $18.50 and "Sound barrier damping material"700x330x2.3mm thick for $11.25
What would be needed, the acoustic deadner and the damping material?? Is jaycar that good compared to dynmat etc.
#7
Posted 04 May 2005 - 12:19 AM
just too messy and tedious for my liking but I would imagine if you do it right it would acheive similar sound deadening effects as the other well known products
#8
Posted 04 May 2005 - 12:27 AM
Whereas the thicker stuff does not have any adhesive. And is slightly different than Dynamat etc, looking at the website it's kinda like vinyl impregnanted with Barium for weight. The $18.50 one has a rubber foam attached too.
#9
Posted 27 May 2005 - 09:41 AM
#10
Posted 24 September 2005 - 12:07 AM
#11
Posted 11 November 2005 - 05:24 PM
Just to note, i use 20sqft of stinger expert roadkill on the front doors of VT-VZ Commodores. they go hard
#12
Posted 13 November 2005 - 08:13 PM
3 sheets of Dynamat Xtreme (Door Kit) managed to do most of the inside of the two doors. Wondering what to do with the left over sheet - should I open up the doors again and do the inside surface of the outer skin of the door? Or perhaps do some more to the inside of the trims? hmmmn.....
#13
Posted 13 November 2005 - 09:51 PM
#14
Posted 14 November 2005 - 12:38 AM
Rhyso
#15
Guest_Liquidity_*
Posted 03 December 2005 - 02:44 AM
I'm going to re-do all my service holes at some stage, i've been worrying too much about moisture-take up of mdf. I dont think i sufficiently sealed my MDF before i installed it.
#16
Posted 30 December 2005 - 10:55 PM
#17
Posted 03 January 2006 - 04:15 AM
Infact this entire forum is pretty kick ass!. B)
#18
Posted 03 January 2006 - 09:14 PM
Where can you buy it?!
Im going to check out autobarn or repco tomorrow as i would assume they might have it. I'll let ya know how it performs
#19
Posted 03 January 2006 - 10:00 PM
#20
Posted 03 January 2006 - 10:06 PM
Repco has it.
Other hardware stores have it.
#21
Posted 26 January 2006 - 10:03 PM
how ever it was liek impossible for me to get a good layer inside the door but it will do.
i will buy 2 more rolls and do all the boot. still havent tested speake yet as teh suppled cable is about 1m 2 short ond i couldn't get the power wire to the boot stupid fire wall grrr lol
#22
Posted 27 January 2006 - 09:21 AM
What car is it ? there should be existing rubber grommets in the firewall where the engine, lights, etc wires go through. Follow the engine loom to see where it goes through. Also check inside the wheel wells.
#23
Posted 27 January 2006 - 05:33 PM
tthe grommit is an wedge sup to the upper left of my brake booster i was not abl eto get a 4mm draw wire in there.
i havea large netal palte wewr eteh steering goe sthru i will drill taht.
i did not do teh bottom o fteh doors for that reason i and going to use thin sheets of foam in there to insulate it as well as to make teh space smaller
#24
Posted 02 February 2006 - 04:52 PM
In the tutorial where it says to deaden the inside of the door, you're not talking about the section where plastic "vapour shield" originally was right?
Thanks
#25
Posted 02 February 2006 - 05:11 PM
i used
Septone wax and grease remover
Septone Body Deadner (4L)
Jaycar bitchumen bases sound deadner
3mm MDF for doors, and duct tape
any ideas or tips would be much appreciated!!!!
here are some pics







#26
Posted 02 February 2006 - 06:22 PM
#27
Posted 03 February 2006 - 01:12 AM
What is most beneficial - sound deadening the inside of the doors, the outer skin, or the actual door skin itself?
Thanks
I would also like to know the answer to this....Cos i am about to start my sound deadening exercise tomorow!
#28
Guest_Liquidity_*
Posted 03 February 2006 - 03:27 AM
Road noise, outer skin.
Speaker performance, inner skin (metal panel with holes in it) + seal over the holes with MDF, perspex, whatever that solid and not too flexible
Going crazy : Deaden outer skin, deaden inner skin, seal inner skin, Deaden door trim, putting foam on the inner skin that sandwiches down nice and tight, and beading the edge of the door trim with silicone or closed cell foam.
#29
Posted 03 February 2006 - 12:01 PM
Just take out everything and slay down deadening on anything that even remotely looks like metal or?
#30
Posted 08 February 2006 - 01:08 AM
But i just copied most of this procedure and it had a huge affect on the performance of my new Focal splits, so cheers
Tim













