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Tutorial - Sound Deadening a Vehicle


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#1 Marc ♫

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Posted 31 March 2005 - 02:14 PM

Discussion from Technical Article

#2 pigphama

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Posted 31 March 2005 - 03:33 PM

A very accurate and informative tutorial. If people follow this they should have no problems.

#3 UnsettledHawk

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Posted 13 April 2005 - 08:28 PM

Good work Marc, I'll be doing that very soon (don't be suprised if you get a PM from me). How convenient, you did a Lancer too :D

#4 dangerous_daveo

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Posted 15 April 2005 - 09:59 PM

Awesome. Out of interest, how much product was used on that? Just so we have a rough idea, dont want to be going back down to the shop 3 times to get more :P

Im a bit scared of doing it to the Cef as if I stuff something, its stuffed, no hope of going down to the wreckers for a new one. But then Im missing so much of the music I listen to its gota be done.

#5 grandmasterb

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Posted 03 May 2005 - 09:29 PM

Is this hard if you have never done anything like this before? What should i be budgeting to do 2 doors and is the jaycar stuff ok to use as living in Tassie i dont have to many options for sound deadening materials to buy off the shelf.

Cheers GMB

#6 SILVR6

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Posted 04 May 2005 - 12:06 AM

looking at the new jaycar catalogue (i love it :)) they have sound deander new and improved :).
unsure what you need, ebcause you can get
"Sound deadner acousitc sound absorbing deadning material" (2x330mmsquare $26.95)
"Heavy Duty sound barrier absorbing/damping material"675(l)x330(w)x6mm thick for $18.50 and "Sound barrier damping material"700x330x2.3mm thick for $11.25

What would be needed, the acoustic deadner and the damping material?? Is jaycar that good compared to dynmat etc.

#7 niteflyer

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Posted 04 May 2005 - 12:19 AM

jaycar sound deadening does not have an adhesive side to it from memory...and so you would have to go to the hardware store and buy Pressure Sensitive Adhesive, same stuff used for flooring and such...

just too messy and tedious for my liking but I would imagine if you do it right it would acheive similar sound deadening effects as the other well known products

#8 Jesper

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Posted 04 May 2005 - 12:27 AM

I believe the first one has an adhesive surface and is similiar to the Dynamat and Flashtac type products (foil with tar like substance).

Whereas the thicker stuff does not have any adhesive. And is slightly different than Dynamat etc, looking at the website it's kinda like vinyl impregnanted with Barium for weight. The $18.50 one has a rubber foam attached too.

#9 Pumped

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Posted 27 May 2005 - 09:41 AM

i used some of the adhesive backed SD from jaycar, its ok, seems a bit thin to me, ive also used Stinger roadkill, id go stinger over the Jaycar stuff any day.

#10 travtocool

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Posted 24 September 2005 - 12:07 AM

wow, i cut out pieces of mdf and stuck it in the service hols with tape, havnt used sound deadener or anything and the speakers sound at least twice as good! only cost me $10 aswell, for all you people without the money to buy sound deadener i recommend you do that.

#11 MADTRAV

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Posted 11 November 2005 - 05:24 PM

another method is to resin coat your mdf so it doen't warp with water and use urethane to hold them in place, that way if you ever need to access the holes you can just cut the urethane with a blade.

Just to note, i use 20sqft of stinger expert roadkill on the front doors of VT-VZ Commodores. they go hard

#12 MarZer

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Posted 13 November 2005 - 08:13 PM

Great tutorial, followed it today to do my EA falcon doors.

3 sheets of Dynamat Xtreme (Door Kit) managed to do most of the inside of the two doors. Wondering what to do with the left over sheet - should I open up the doors again and do the inside surface of the outer skin of the door? Or perhaps do some more to the inside of the trims? hmmmn.....

#13 Stone

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Posted 13 November 2005 - 09:51 PM

Thin aluminium sheeting can be used in place of MDF.

#14 rhysy_boi

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Posted 14 November 2005 - 12:38 AM

i'd go for a 0.060" aluminium sheet jsut to be sure. on service holes it shouldn't flex unless they are big.

Rhyso

#15 Guest_Liquidity_*

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Posted 03 December 2005 - 02:44 AM

Just another note. The edges of any thin sheet metal can be very sharp, so be careful. Also, that urethane idea is gold, pity i didnt think of it :(

I'm going to re-do all my service holes at some stage, i've been worrying too much about moisture-take up of mdf. I dont think i sufficiently sealed my MDF before i installed it.

#16 Stone

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Posted 30 December 2005 - 10:55 PM

Ideally, you should paint MDF or plywood to seal it from moisture... Aluminium doesn't have that problem.

#17 Onyx

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 04:15 AM

Thank u for the well written, and v humourous tutorial LOL :D , im a absolute beginner *least when it comes to car audio*, and this has helped out a lot.

Infact this entire forum is pretty kick ass!. B)

#18 crazy_smurf

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 09:14 PM

I am about to attempt to do the sound deadening on my doors tomorrow. Ive bought a dynamat extreme bulk pack which should definately be enough, but the only thing is i went down to bunnings to try and find the wax + grease remover and couldnt find any.

Where can you buy it?!

Im going to check out autobarn or repco tomorrow as i would assume they might have it. I'll let ya know how it performs

#19 brady123

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 10:00 PM

I bought mine from K-Mart

#20 Stone

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 10:06 PM

Bunnings usually has it in the solvents section.
Repco has it.
Other hardware stores have it.

#21 gros16

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Posted 26 January 2006 - 10:03 PM

i went to bunnings and bought a large roll of flash tack it not actlly attache dto teh roll liek tape is it, u unroll it an dthen peel teh backing off, i found no heat needed, but i say get 2 rolls ($30 each) tey even have smaller , skinner ones) as u the time i done teh outer skin on the 2nd door i was running lo oh and wer eteh holes wer ei just went right over it with sound deadner and abitt of gaffer tae.

how ever it was liek impossible for me to get a good layer inside the door but it will do.
i will buy 2 more rolls and do all the boot. still havent tested speake yet as teh suppled cable is about 1m 2 short ond i couldn't get the power wire to the boot stupid fire wall grrr lol

#22 Dogo

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Posted 27 January 2006 - 09:21 AM

dont cover the water drain holes. you NEED them. Else your door will become a rusty mess after a while.

What car is it ? there should be existing rubber grommets in the firewall where the engine, lights, etc wires go through. Follow the engine loom to see where it goes through. Also check inside the wheel wells.

#23 gros16

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Posted 27 January 2006 - 05:33 PM

its an ef falcon sedan
tthe grommit is an wedge sup to the upper left of my brake booster i was not abl eto get a 4mm draw wire in there.
i havea large netal palte wewr eteh steering goe sthru i will drill taht.

i did not do teh bottom o fteh doors for that reason i and going to use thin sheets of foam in there to insulate it as well as to make teh space smaller

#24 flyinwrx

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Posted 02 February 2006 - 04:52 PM

What is most beneficial - sound deadening the inside of the doors, the outer skin, or the actual door skin itself?

In the tutorial where it says to deaden the inside of the door, you're not talking about the section where plastic "vapour shield" originally was right?

Thanks :)

#25 TUFFTR

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Posted 02 February 2006 - 05:11 PM

here is my first attempt at sound deadning
i used
Septone wax and grease remover
Septone Body Deadner (4L)
Jaycar bitchumen bases sound deadner
3mm MDF for doors, and duct tape

any ideas or tips would be much appreciated!!!!

here are some pics
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#26 Dogo

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Posted 02 February 2006 - 06:22 PM

looks alright. you can put foam between the door trim and the metal too to absorb some rattles.

#27 Tim-E

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Posted 03 February 2006 - 01:12 AM

What is most beneficial - sound deadening the inside of the doors, the outer skin, or the actual door skin itself?
Thanks :)


I would also like to know the answer to this....Cos i am about to start my sound deadening exercise tomorow!

#28 Guest_Liquidity_*

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Posted 03 February 2006 - 03:27 AM

depends on why your deadening. Road noise? speaker performance? That nice "thud" door sound? :D

Road noise, outer skin.
Speaker performance, inner skin (metal panel with holes in it) + seal over the holes with MDF, perspex, whatever that solid and not too flexible

Going crazy : Deaden outer skin, deaden inner skin, seal inner skin, Deaden door trim, putting foam on the inner skin that sandwiches down nice and tight, and beading the edge of the door trim with silicone or closed cell foam.

#29 Low Tech

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Posted 03 February 2006 - 12:01 PM

When it comes to deadening the boot, where should i actually put the deadening?
Just take out everything and slay down deadening on anything that even remotely looks like metal or?

#30 Tim-E

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Posted 08 February 2006 - 01:08 AM

Just like to say that before reading this tutorial i had not a friggin clue how to sound deaden my doors nor did I know what the purpose of it was.
But i just copied most of this procedure and it had a huge affect on the performance of my new Focal splits, so cheers :)

Tim