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Tutorial - Sound Deadening a Vehicle


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#16 Stone

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Posted 30 December 2005 - 10:55 PM

Ideally, you should paint MDF or plywood to seal it from moisture... Aluminium doesn't have that problem.

#17 Onyx

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 04:15 AM

Thank u for the well written, and v humourous tutorial LOL :D , im a absolute beginner *least when it comes to car audio*, and this has helped out a lot.

Infact this entire forum is pretty kick ass!. B)

#18 crazy_smurf

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 09:14 PM

I am about to attempt to do the sound deadening on my doors tomorrow. Ive bought a dynamat extreme bulk pack which should definately be enough, but the only thing is i went down to bunnings to try and find the wax + grease remover and couldnt find any.

Where can you buy it?!

Im going to check out autobarn or repco tomorrow as i would assume they might have it. I'll let ya know how it performs

#19 brady123

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 10:00 PM

I bought mine from K-Mart
Alpine CDA-9855R // Dynaudio MD100 + MW160GT // Eclipse XA4000

#20 Stone

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 10:06 PM

Bunnings usually has it in the solvents section.
Repco has it.
Other hardware stores have it.

#21 gros16

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Posted 26 January 2006 - 10:03 PM

i went to bunnings and bought a large roll of flash tack it not actlly attache dto teh roll liek tape is it, u unroll it an dthen peel teh backing off, i found no heat needed, but i say get 2 rolls ($30 each) tey even have smaller , skinner ones) as u the time i done teh outer skin on the 2nd door i was running lo oh and wer eteh holes wer ei just went right over it with sound deadner and abitt of gaffer tae.

how ever it was liek impossible for me to get a good layer inside the door but it will do.
i will buy 2 more rolls and do all the boot. still havent tested speake yet as teh suppled cable is about 1m 2 short ond i couldn't get the power wire to the boot stupid fire wall grrr lol

#22 Dogo

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Posted 27 January 2006 - 09:21 AM

dont cover the water drain holes. you NEED them. Else your door will become a rusty mess after a while.

What car is it ? there should be existing rubber grommets in the firewall where the engine, lights, etc wires go through. Follow the engine loom to see where it goes through. Also check inside the wheel wells.
Dave the speedbump-aphobia sufferer
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#23 gros16

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Posted 27 January 2006 - 05:33 PM

its an ef falcon sedan
tthe grommit is an wedge sup to the upper left of my brake booster i was not abl eto get a 4mm draw wire in there.
i havea large netal palte wewr eteh steering goe sthru i will drill taht.

i did not do teh bottom o fteh doors for that reason i and going to use thin sheets of foam in there to insulate it as well as to make teh space smaller

#24 flyinwrx

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Posted 02 February 2006 - 04:52 PM

What is most beneficial - sound deadening the inside of the doors, the outer skin, or the actual door skin itself?

In the tutorial where it says to deaden the inside of the door, you're not talking about the section where plastic "vapour shield" originally was right?

Thanks :)

#25 TUFFTR

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Posted 02 February 2006 - 05:11 PM

here is my first attempt at sound deadning
i used
Septone wax and grease remover
Septone Body Deadner (4L)
Jaycar bitchumen bases sound deadner
3mm MDF for doors, and duct tape

any ideas or tips would be much appreciated!!!!

here are some pics
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1993 Mitsubishi Magna TR 6G74 DOHC 5sp Manual.

1991 Mitsubishi Diamante 30RS 6G62 DOHC 4sp Automatic


#26 Dogo

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Posted 02 February 2006 - 06:22 PM

looks alright. you can put foam between the door trim and the metal too to absorb some rattles.
Dave the speedbump-aphobia sufferer
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#27 Tim-E

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Posted 03 February 2006 - 01:12 AM

flyinwrx, on Feb 2 2006, 04:52 PM, said:

What is most beneficial - sound deadening the inside of the doors, the outer skin, or the actual door skin itself?
Thanks :)

I would also like to know the answer to this....Cos i am about to start my sound deadening exercise tomorow!

#28 Guest_Liquidity_*

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Posted 03 February 2006 - 03:27 AM

depends on why your deadening. Road noise? speaker performance? That nice "thud" door sound? :D

Road noise, outer skin.
Speaker performance, inner skin (metal panel with holes in it) + seal over the holes with MDF, perspex, whatever that solid and not too flexible

Going crazy : Deaden outer skin, deaden inner skin, seal inner skin, Deaden door trim, putting foam on the inner skin that sandwiches down nice and tight, and beading the edge of the door trim with silicone or closed cell foam.

#29 Low Tech

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Posted 03 February 2006 - 12:01 PM

When it comes to deadening the boot, where should i actually put the deadening?
Just take out everything and slay down deadening on anything that even remotely looks like metal or?

#30 Tim-E

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Posted 08 February 2006 - 01:08 AM

Just like to say that before reading this tutorial i had not a friggin clue how to sound deaden my doors nor did I know what the purpose of it was.
But i just copied most of this procedure and it had a huge affect on the performance of my new Focal splits, so cheers :)

Tim





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