215 replies to this topic

[Dogo]

This is my dead drivers door.

Thats a layer of Stinger Expert Roadkill and then a layer of G-Spot paint on both the inner and outer skins.
The paint was also used to get some tricky areas inside the door.
Behind the speaker is a Dynamat Dynaxorb panel , half above, half below that reinforcement bar

The services holes have been sealed with duct tape and 3mm mdf wood. These then have the stinger sheeting and the paint on top

The wooden baffle for the speaker is sealed with black enamel paint and has black Sikaflex sealant adhesive sandwidged between it and the metal , and then screwed down. I also ran it around the edge to seal and absorb vibrations

The back of the door trim ( no pics, sorry ) has been painted with Soundoff paint and has had foam rubber glued to it to absorb rattles etc.
I used a foam bed overlay from Clark Rubber - its fairly firm, has the bumpy surface like accousitc panels, and is relatively cheap

The lock rods have been wrapped in Duct Tape ( because it was heavier than electrical tape ) and the wiring tidied up and wrapped in thin foam just in case

Unfortunately I cannot seal that large hole with the rods.
My door has a large pocket with a hinged lid. When closed, the hinge protrudes into that hole.
Of course I didnt realise this until the door was done so I had to cut off the deadening that I'd put over that hole.

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Edited by Dogo, 08 February 2006 - 11:07 PM.

Dave the speedbump-aphobia sufferer
--------------------
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i love music

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[drcowboy]

great post, I am definitely inspired to do this ASAP.
I have a few more questions though,

1) How thick is a layer of sound deadening (Stinger extreme)? My door cards are pretty much flat against the inner door skin, so adding 5mm or so thickness would be a big problem.

2) so are the (fairly expensive) sound diffuser panels behind the speaker magnet necessary after deadening the inner and outer skins?

cheers

[Dogo]

1) The sound deadening sheets are maybe 3mm thick I think. Using the roller flattens it down a bit too.

2) Not necessary - a few people Ive asked have said they didnt notice the difference. I figured I'd use them anyway.
If you dont want to use the panels and you have SD paint handy, you can dab with a brush to give the rough surface ( like u can see on the reinforcement bar in the first pic ). This should avoid reflecting waves to some extent.

Edited by Dogo, 02 March 2006 - 11:07 AM.

[TUFFTR]

that $30 on the super cheap sound deadning paint was some of the best money ive spent

ive sound deadened the inside of my doors, the skins, and my bootlid completly, and still have 2L left.

really does make a difference, and if your a tightass like mwah, the suepr cheap one is pretty good i reckon.

[Low Tech]

I assume when deadening doors it should be avoided laying deadening over the wires that run across the door?

[99civic]

nice tut champ, my doors are sounding a lot better now with next to no rattles and my doors have a thud to them
tanks
jaz

[cal16v]

tufftr... so all thats needed to cheaply deaden the doors is septone body deadner from supercheap?? just the tin in the first pic??

going by your last comment i assume so but you also said you bought Jaycar bitchumen bases sound deadner , so what did you use this for and what is it exactly and how much??

[qwerty_man]

About to do my doors and boot soon. Boot shouldn't be a problem, however with my doors I have a few questions;

1. The metal rods that connect to the switch to the lock and in my case, connect to an actuator for the central locking). Do I have to remove them? I'm not particularly confortable with removing them, but is it okay if I merely work around them?
2. What about inside the shell of the door, that you can't see? Do you deaden that aswell? It obvious from the tutorial, you deaden the inside of the skin, the outter part of the door shell, but in regards to inside the shell, what do you do? Do you just apply the SD to the back wall of the shell?

Thanks

[TUFFTR]

Cal16V - I did it on the cheap side, i should of put Some foam in there aswell behind the trim but i havent had time yet...Also i should of used dynamat....the Jaycar stuff isnt very good at sticking..

bass pounding dood - I opened my bootlid, manually closed it so the car thought it was shut layed a sheet down and let it dry for two days, the thing does not rattle 1 iota...just make sure you get some gap sealer and seal all the gaps first aswell!

bangers - i just painted anywhere my hand could reach, i really should of done 2 coats but we had to drive the car a lot and quite frankly it stunk like crap. You will be able to get to most places as you will find a way somehow of getting your hand there...trust me!

overall for the $30 or $40 the tin was i think its great value....i mean i did my bootlid with only this and foam and there are no rattles!

But as for the stick on SD i wouldnt recommend the jaycar stuff, i spent $70 for 2 doors and think for a little extra i could of got the dynamat

[Brycestro]

Hey fellas, after reading this tutorial i'm looking at sound deadening my doors. I've got a few dumb questions and things i need clarified first but. Ok... to begin with, i'm confused about some of the terminologies - inner door trim, outer door trim, actual door trim??? I've looked inside my doors before when i've been checking out those wonderful VS commodore stock speakers, so i have an idea of what it all looks like in there at least.

Let me know if this is correct:
Outer door trim = the thing you remove first, the part you see from the inside of the car when it's on, the solid plastic part that has a fabric section and map pocket and all other sort of things like that?

Actual door trim = that thin piece of plastic that sits between the nice door trim piece you see with the map pocket and fabric section and everything and the inner metal of the door? It's held on with clips or something yeah?

Inner door trim = the metal of the door that is revealed after removing both the nice door trim piece with the map pocket and fabric section and all that jazz and also the thin piece of plastic that is held on with like clips. The piece that Marc shows pictures of duct taping MDF too.... is this it?

Ok... so does all this sound right or am i completely off track? Is the door supposed to be pretty much comprised of 3 layers?

My other question was that i've seen products like the Dynamat Extreme door kits, and i see they state for example enough sound deadening to do 2 doors with. Is this assuming your sound deadening just the inner metal of the door or also the outer door trim and everything that was stated in Marc's tutorial?

So if i was to follow all the steps to sound deaden my doors as are stated in teh tutorial, would it be correct to say i'd have to have a layer of sound deadening on each of hte following:

a) the metal piece of the door inside the car
b) the nice solid plastic door piece which is what you actually see from the inside of the car when the door is in tact and all put back together
c) both sides of the thin sheet of plastic that is held inside the door with clips? (or just one side or what).

Excuse the stupidity, i'm new to car audio, but i'm getting there

Cheers, Bryce.

[Dogo]

was just wondering

does anyone here sound deaden the window mechanisms ?

i have 'overkill' treatment as described above.
Something inside the door buzzes - it drives me nuts.

could it be the electric window ?
is there anything I can do and still keep it fully functional.

[Pulse-R]

I had a buzz
it was the door trim, where it's two parts were joined together

grrr