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4Ohm midbass Drivers


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#1 vtviper

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Posted 16 November 2007 - 12:31 PM

Recently Ive started running my front end active off my JL 300/4 amp, running XT25 tweeters in the A pillars, and reusing my old Pioneer TS-C160r drivers up front. I'm very happy with the tweeters, but the pioneer isn't exactly crash hot, so I'm looking for a suitable replacement, hopefuly something that can play decently upto 3khz so I can avoid a 3 way front stage - I'm not against 3 way but I would need another amplifier and at this stage I'm hoping to keep costs down.

Did a search and the Peerless HDS exclusive 8" looks promising and roughly at what I'm looking to spend but what concerns me is that its an 8ohm driver, meaning my amp could only pump about 40wrms into them. Also being an 8" driver I'm concerned whether itd be able to play comfortably upto 2khz even though the graphs Ive seen for it indicate that its easily capable of it.

I have looked into scanspeak but they're a little out of my price range. I don't mind looking through more commonplace stables (DD, Focal etc) but Id rather just by the woofers by themselves to keep cost down to under $300

Edited by vtviper, 16 November 2007 - 12:32 PM.


#2 Fury♫

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Posted 16 November 2007 - 12:48 PM

Your amp is designed to put out the same power into 8ohm as it can into 4ohm.
It will feed it 75wrms, which theoretically is only ~3db louder.

#3 vtviper

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Posted 16 November 2007 - 01:00 PM

The 300/4 can only regulate its power output to 4 ohm. Below that it acts similiar to regular amps. The manual tells me at 8 ohm it will only put out 38wrms, roughly half the 4ohm output.

3db is only about twice the volume, and being a midbass driver I want plenty of power on tap for those punchy "kicks"

#4 ~Spyne~

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Posted 16 November 2007 - 01:13 PM

a 3dB change is NOT twice/half the volume....a 10dB increase is perceived to be twice as loud

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#5 austin-towers

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Posted 16 November 2007 - 03:43 PM

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31
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#6 Pulse-R

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Posted 16 November 2007 - 06:54 PM

the 300/4 will be ok at 8 ohm, but not exceptionally loud. my dyn mids (3") are 8 ohm, and work quite ok off the 300/4, but I'm looking at bridging 2 channels to run 150W for the midbass (Dyn MW162 nice woofers)
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#7 vtviper

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Posted 16 November 2007 - 08:59 PM

~Spyne~ - Yeah I mistook thinking that 3db meant twice the volume where its USUALLY just the result of twice the power

austin-towers - very interesting read, this combined with my misconception about SPL seems to be making me lean towards that 8ohm driver

To everyone else, any other suggestions for me to consider? Would a 7" or even 6.5" HDS Peerless work better for my setup?

#8 TEGBOY

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Posted 17 November 2007 - 10:46 AM

Have a good look at Image Dynamics XS6's.. I have a pair and they are truly EPIC. They are alittle more than you wanted to spend, but once you listen to the, you will see how worth it they truly are.
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#9 Volenti

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Posted 17 November 2007 - 08:54 PM

While those peerless drivers are very nice ( I use them in my HT mains) they need a proper enclosure, their QTS is far too low to work well in a door, no matter how well you SD it.

It's unfortunate that high quality 4ohm midbass with suitable parameters are so thin on the ground.
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#10 vtviper

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Posted 17 November 2007 - 09:09 PM

Cheers guys. I might have to stick with the pioneers then for the time being it seems. However I am looking at putting an enclosure in my doors by getting tricky with fibreglass, but I have a few other projects that need attention first.

#11 Luke352

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Posted 17 November 2007 - 10:11 PM

Volenti, on Nov 17 2007, 08:54 PM, said:

While those peerless drivers are very nice ( I use them in my HT mains) they need a proper enclosure, their QTS is far too low to work well in a door, no matter how well you SD it.

It's unfortunate that high quality 4ohm midbass with suitable parameters are so thin on the ground.


If he intended on running the drivers down to there Fs point then yes the Qts could have a large effect, but if you intend on crossing the driver an octave above it's Fs point such as around 70hz then the Qts of the Peerless drivers isn't that big a issue. Of course running them in an enclosure will help things alot!

Edited by Luke352, 17 November 2007 - 10:34 PM.

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#12 Luke352

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Posted 17 November 2007 - 10:31 PM

<a href="http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/seas/h1288.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/seas/h1288.pdf</a> I'd go with those if you intend on using them as a midrange aswell, these will kick the Peerless all over the place for midbass (almost double the xmax) if you did intend on going 3 way I would recommend the metal cone version (L22RNX) but it is quite difficult to use in a 2 way as it has terrible cone resonance issue higher up but it is known as one of the most articulate and highest output drivers around unless you spend probably 3 times it's price.

So I think you are probably better saving up actually and just going 3 way when you can afford it and get drivers more suited specifically to the task at hand aka L22RNX midbass, TBA midrange, XT25 tweeter.

Another option as a cheapish upgrade would be these http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=8181, http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...products_id=823, these should give you a massive midbass improvement over your pioneer's and the ER version is known for excellant midrange, and don't worry about the roughness of it's Freq Response compared to the Peerless drivers as it's simply a case of different measurement techniques, plus I have a feeling Peerless use a smoothed graph. I intend on pulling out my DLS UR midbass drivers to replace with the metal cone version so it should give you an idea of my confidence in these drivers.

Of course if you feel more comfortable with something a bit more car related you wouldnt go wrong with the ID mids as Tegboy recommended as the ID mids have always been known for great performance.

Luke

Edited by Luke352, 17 November 2007 - 10:40 PM.

"You can't polish a turd, but you can chrome it and put flames on it!" President of Audiobahn

[SIZE=1]
HU Eclipse CD7000
F DLS UR36's
F Midbass Morel HCW8's
Subbass JBL W15Gti
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Car audio is all about compromise. There's no single best way to do anything. Optimization in the face of several variables ... often conflicting ... means compromise. The educated are better positioned to sort through the compromises than the opinionated. Werewolf/Lycan 28-11-2006

#13 vtviper

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Posted 18 November 2007 - 04:34 PM

Luke352 - Saving up for a potential 3 way isnt completely out of the question, but I can't see it happening anytime soon, although a midbass driver that would really well in a 3 way from stage but still decently in a 2 way front stage would save trouble later on down the track. BTW I can't get 2 of those latter links to work

I just recently noticed the DDW6.5 from digital designs. True theyre a bit more than I had intended on spending but it doesn't look like a decent 4 ohm driver isn't going to be had cheaply. The DD seems to have the wide bandwidth and excursion to fit perfectly, but Id like to hear from anyone with experience with these drivers first.

Also with my 2 way although I have HP my tweeters and LP my woofer, the woofer doesnt have any higher frequency cutoff, so where I have the tweeter coming on from around 3khz the woofer is still playing as well (probably not too well though), would this negatively affect my sound? Is there a way to both LP AND HP my midbasses?

#14 Luke352

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Posted 18 November 2007 - 05:53 PM

Here try these ones <a href="http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/seas/H1215.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/seas/H1215.pdf</a>

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/h1456.pdf

These are available from the Aussie importer ( http://www.aranmarac...m.au/index.html ) for a little over $100 per driver, and both should keep up with a DDW6.5.


vtviper, on Nov 18 2007, 04:34 PM, said:

Also with my 2 way although I have HP my tweeters and LP my woofer, the woofer doesnt have any higher frequency cutoff, so where I have the tweeter coming on from around 3khz the woofer is still playing as well (probably not too well though), would this negatively affect my sound? Is there a way to both LP AND HP my midbasses?


Which amp and HU are you using? There may be a way.

Edited by Luke352, 18 November 2007 - 05:55 PM.

"You can't polish a turd, but you can chrome it and put flames on it!" President of Audiobahn

[SIZE=1]
HU Eclipse CD7000
F DLS UR36's
F Midbass Morel HCW8's
Subbass JBL W15Gti
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Car audio is all about compromise. There's no single best way to do anything. Optimization in the face of several variables ... often conflicting ... means compromise. The educated are better positioned to sort through the compromises than the opinionated. Werewolf/Lycan 28-11-2006

#15 Luke352

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Posted 18 November 2007 - 06:05 PM

Some 7" reviews http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showth...;highlight=seas
"You can't polish a turd, but you can chrome it and put flames on it!" President of Audiobahn

[SIZE=1]
HU Eclipse CD7000
F DLS UR36's
F Midbass Morel HCW8's
Subbass JBL W15Gti
Powered by ZED Leviathan

Car audio is all about compromise. There's no single best way to do anything. Optimization in the face of several variables ... often conflicting ... means compromise. The educated are better positioned to sort through the compromises than the opinionated. Werewolf/Lycan 28-11-2006





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