Edited by antisven, 29 February 2008 - 01:42 AM.
upgraded speaker setup
#1
Posted 22 February 2008 - 03:16 AM
Source Unit: Alpine DVA-7996
Processor: Alpine PXA-H701
Front Speakers: Focal 165 K3Ps, drivers run Actively
Rear Speakers: Non-existant
Subwoofer: IDMAX d2v.3 12"
Tweeter Amp: Orion 250SX
Midrange Amp: Orion 2150SX
Midbass Amp: Orion 2250SX
Subwoofer Amp: Alpine T-1505
Future upgrade: More Dynamat, less rattles
QLD PRO ST CHAMPION 2007
QLD JUDGE 2008

#2
Posted 29 February 2008 - 01:42 AM
Source Unit: Alpine DVA-7996
Processor: Alpine PXA-H701
Front Speakers: Focal 165 K3Ps, drivers run Actively
Rear Speakers: Non-existant
Subwoofer: IDMAX d2v.3 12"
Tweeter Amp: Orion 250SX
Midrange Amp: Orion 2150SX
Midbass Amp: Orion 2250SX
Subwoofer Amp: Alpine T-1505
Future upgrade: More Dynamat, less rattles
QLD PRO ST CHAMPION 2007
QLD JUDGE 2008

#3
Posted 29 February 2008 - 12:08 PM
more wiring, more amplification, more tuning
advantages?
more midbass duuuuuuuude!

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#4
Posted 29 February 2008 - 12:14 PM
but have you got the power to do it is the main q?
or an amp thats 2ohm stereo-able for the dual KBE's..
think you can do it with your current amps tho!

Damo - The MEAVIC Photographer
My ride : 2001 VX Lumina wagon - [CRUZN.5]
Signal & Control by: /////Alpine
Music & Mayhem by: Morel & Image Dynamics
Power by: Phoenix Gold
Thanks to : Phatt Audio Concepts : Sew Fine Interiors : Coinslot Enterprises
#5
Posted 29 February 2008 - 05:26 PM
Luke
P.S. if you can do it, I'd try and fit a 8" midbass, whilst keeping your 6" midrange where it is currently.
Edited by Luke352, 29 February 2008 - 05:28 PM.
[SIZE=1]
HU Eclipse CD7000
F DLS UR36's
F Midbass Morel HCW8's
Subbass JBL W15Gti
Powered by ZED Leviathan
Car audio is all about compromise. There's no single best way to do anything. Optimization in the face of several variables ... often conflicting ... means compromise. The educated are better positioned to sort through the compromises than the opinionated. Werewolf/Lycan 28-11-2006
#6
Posted 29 February 2008 - 06:09 PM
Array your midbass, get them playing in a more linear fashion, and you'll get harder kick from them. Always better to have too much and turn it down, then have too little yet not be able to turn it up.
With the mids and the tweets though, I would seriously consider the kicks as mounting options. Focals and windscreens are a no-go (unless you've got the TLR of course) and the mid wont be doing you any favors up there either. Tonally, it will be very difficult to tune right.

Its all about the music. Always has been, always will be. Im here for the music.
#7
Posted 29 February 2008 - 06:14 PM
[SIZE=1]
HU Eclipse CD7000
F DLS UR36's
F Midbass Morel HCW8's
Subbass JBL W15Gti
Powered by ZED Leviathan
Car audio is all about compromise. There's no single best way to do anything. Optimization in the face of several variables ... often conflicting ... means compromise. The educated are better positioned to sort through the compromises than the opinionated. Werewolf/Lycan 28-11-2006
#8
Posted 29 February 2008 - 06:59 PM
k now for the arraying, can you explain how to do it in simple terms using the h701 and without modding the pods????? this pic is exactly as it is atm
Attached Files
Edited by antisven, 29 February 2008 - 07:05 PM.
Source Unit: Alpine DVA-7996
Processor: Alpine PXA-H701
Front Speakers: Focal 165 K3Ps, drivers run Actively
Rear Speakers: Non-existant
Subwoofer: IDMAX d2v.3 12"
Tweeter Amp: Orion 250SX
Midrange Amp: Orion 2150SX
Midbass Amp: Orion 2250SX
Subwoofer Amp: Alpine T-1505
Future upgrade: More Dynamat, less rattles
QLD PRO ST CHAMPION 2007
QLD JUDGE 2008

#9
Posted 29 February 2008 - 11:33 PM
but mounting both midrange & tweeter in the kick would be the way to go...
As above.. might be harder to tune a nice balance.. maybe consider giving yours more power first before venturing down the "more/larger cone area" path..
i know the KBE & 100KP love power, in tune of ~350wrms!
i feel that your amps could be letting it all down, especially when they dont bridge evenly.. unless, your running them in left/right config..

Damo - The MEAVIC Photographer
My ride : 2001 VX Lumina wagon - [CRUZN.5]
Signal & Control by: /////Alpine
Music & Mayhem by: Morel & Image Dynamics
Power by: Phoenix Gold
Thanks to : Phatt Audio Concepts : Sew Fine Interiors : Coinslot Enterprises
#10
Posted 01 March 2008 - 08:35 PM
Edited by antisven, 01 March 2008 - 08:36 PM.
Source Unit: Alpine DVA-7996
Processor: Alpine PXA-H701
Front Speakers: Focal 165 K3Ps, drivers run Actively
Rear Speakers: Non-existant
Subwoofer: IDMAX d2v.3 12"
Tweeter Amp: Orion 250SX
Midrange Amp: Orion 2150SX
Midbass Amp: Orion 2250SX
Subwoofer Amp: Alpine T-1505
Future upgrade: More Dynamat, less rattles
QLD PRO ST CHAMPION 2007
QLD JUDGE 2008

#11
Posted 02 March 2008 - 03:53 PM
Im feeding mine 350wrms and they are loud as anything!

Damo - The MEAVIC Photographer
My ride : 2001 VX Lumina wagon - [CRUZN.5]
Signal & Control by: /////Alpine
Music & Mayhem by: Morel & Image Dynamics
Power by: Phoenix Gold
Thanks to : Phatt Audio Concepts : Sew Fine Interiors : Coinslot Enterprises
#12
Posted 03 March 2008 - 11:22 AM
do u think i need more power to the k2p midbass
they are only 100 watt rms
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#13
Posted 03 March 2008 - 12:43 PM
not sure about the K2P midbass... but i have over double that power to my 3 way..
as i said, 350wrms to each midbass & 350wrms to my 100KP (per side!!)

Damo - The MEAVIC Photographer
My ride : 2001 VX Lumina wagon - [CRUZN.5]
Signal & Control by: /////Alpine
Music & Mayhem by: Morel & Image Dynamics
Power by: Phoenix Gold
Thanks to : Phatt Audio Concepts : Sew Fine Interiors : Coinslot Enterprises
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