Anyone feel free to jump in and bring something to the table, but be warned if you talk sh!t you WILL be called on it (by me, thematt, muzzy66, Pulse-R, etc).
So much bad advice out there that waste's people's hard earned money when they simply do not know what to look for. Because of this, many people lose faith in measurements and start "trusting their ears only". This is not because the measurements have failed them, but because interpreting them is not as simple as looking at a graph and making instant judgments on how a speaker will perform. Choosing a driver cannot be taught the standard A+B=C method, it requires a lot of interpretation and thinking. There isn't a spoon-feeding method, so I couldn't even if I wanted to.
Anyway, enough babble. First things first.
Distortion.
Distortion can be divided into 2 categories, linear and nonlinear. Linear distortion is simple, have a look at a frequency response graph and where it is not flat, this is linear distortion. However, this is usually not a big deal because you should never look at a driver's performance from 20hz to 20khz. Consider the appropriate use of the driver, and then imagine a big rolloff around the ideal crossover points.
Nonlinear distortion is not so simple. The most important part (and only part that I will discuss in this post) is THD (Total Harmonic Distortion). Sometimes this is listed as a spec, but this is very misleading, a graph will tell the story a lot better (still not great though unless you know how to visualize a graph changing in your brain). When a speaker plays a 200hz frequency, a certain amount of 400hz(2nd order), 600hz(3rd order), 800hz(4th order), 1000hz (etc etc) will output from the driver as well (harmonics). There is usually less and less of each harmonic (i.e. 2nd order is generally the loudest). Looking at the graph gives you a *rough* idea of the frequency range that you should not play the driver. When you see much over 1% distortion of any order, this is a good indication that at 10Watts, or 100watts, it's going to be well over 1% and very audible.
Breakup modes (I will explain later) can often be spotted in Harmonic distortion graphs as 3rd of 4th order actually being higher than 2nd, or other similar anomalies. Point is, you want to steer well clear of breakup modes because even 30db below the main level, they can still be heard as something of a "ringing" or "hanging" sound. Since most of us don't (or don't know how to) use notch filters in the car, best just to cross over a long way away from them.
Distortion is probably the most important factor in choosing a driver for your needs. Harmonic distortion especially, and then Linear distortion plays a part as well. If there is a BIG problem in the frequency response within the target passband, maybe give it a miss. (Having said that, if it's a dip or peak of relatively shallow nature, the baffle, waveguide, or position of install may help to smooth it out, it needs to be considered)
Beaming, Polar and Power response, Off Axis
Ugh. This stuff is very poorly understood if at all by most car audio nuts, and I may lose a few here because the terms used cannot be avoided without writing an entire textbook. Anyway.
Beaming is pretty much what it sounds like. At low frequencies, the driver is spraying out sound pretty evenly in a sphere (hemisphere when we separate the back-wave), but as we get higher, the driver gradually starts outputting most of the sound directly in front of it. When you look at off axis Frequency response measurements, you will see the effects of beaming. Basically at low frequencies, it's like a floodlight, and up higher, it's like a spotlight (or laser beam). This is almost always dependent on the size of the driver's moving mass.
Polar response is a better way to look at beaming, because it tells you everything from on axis to 180 degrees instead of just 30/60. Problem is, polar response graphs are rarely available, and they only tell you the info at a few select frequencies.
Power response is very difficult to get your head around. Basically, it is a way of looking at the speaker's actual output levels with beaming/polar response considered. Eg. If a driver is 90db on axis at 2khz and 80db at 30 degrees, this is a lower power response at 2khz than a driver that is 87db on axis AND at 30 degrees. Maybe ~thematt~ can do a better job explaing this concept than I can.
Anyway, off to work, more later.
Edited by br85, 03 September 2009 - 09:45 AM.


















