How to achieve depth?
#1
Posted 11 November 2009 - 10:50 PM
Im on a mission to achieve a really great sound stage (arent we all!) Thus far, I have managed to get good height, width, and a solid centre image (finally)
One area I'm struggling in is depth. The centre image is dead centre, directly above the head unit, but with little or no depth at all. Almost like the sound stage is "two dimensional"
I'll post my crossover points below:
Low - 100hz LP 12db/oct
MidL - 80hz HP 12db/oct
MidH - 800hz LP 12db/oct
High - 800hz HP Flat
I have the High channel on flat as the midrange and tweet is still running off the passive crossover. Im under the impression that if I apply a 12db crossover from the head unit, and a 6db from the passive than I will end up with an 18db crossover?
The midbass is running from an Eclipse 4212 (2x240) and the midrange and tweet via the passive crossover from a Tru S44 (2x200)
Can anyone offer any advice as to what I can do to improve this? Im not keen on moving speaker locations, as they are custom. I have the midbass in the doors, and tweet and midrange in the kicks.
Processor - Alpine H701
Front Stage - Dynaudio System 362
Amp - Tru Tech S44
Amp - Eclipse PA5422
Subwoofer - Eclipse 15" Aluminium
Amp - Eclipse DA7122
#2
Posted 11 November 2009 - 11:52 PM
It will just sound like ass at low and very low volumes. You win some, you lose some though.
#3
Posted 12 November 2009 - 06:56 AM
'Usually' twisting the tweeter so that you're now off axis with it can yield good results at the expence of gain (which can be rectified through judicious use of eq or using a tweeter with a better off axis response in the first place).
From my experience, this is easiest achieved through angling and placement of drivers.
I've yet to experience a car with good depth of field by having drivers on axis with you. That's not to say that it's not been achieved of course.
To be honest, this should have been thought of as party to designing your pods in the first place. I'm thinking that although you love them and have the dollars put into them, you might have to change a few things to get a better result.
Edited by Winno, 12 November 2009 - 06:57 AM.
Honda RB3 Odyssey Lux - 24 bitness and 5ch bipolar Class A/B activeness
Source/processor: Clarion HX-D2, Cleaved iP4
Amplification:Phoenix Gold Titanium 500.4 & 600.2, Alpine PDX4.150
Drivers:Audible Physics XR3M super wide band point source mid/tweeters, Seas Prestige L16RNSL midbasses, Infinity Perfect 10VQ sub, Fountek FR88EX wide band rears
Cables:Monster Cable XLN Pro, Monster Cable XLN S-16
The home:
Home two channel - Class A valve and ribbon goodness
Source: Sony XA5ES (Burson discrete op amps x 6)
Amplification: Bewitch KT88 class A valve integrated
Speakers:Aurum Cantus Leisure II ribbon monitors (EXO modded, hand made ribbons) & high massed Epos stands
Cables: Kimber Kable PBJ, 4TC, 8TC
#4
Posted 12 November 2009 - 08:06 AM
Before the last comp, me and Sydmonster were mucking around with some new tweeter pods up on the dash, trying to get a centre image from both seats with no T/A (we got pretty close!). The tweeters ended up at about 60 degrees off axis to the nearside listener, so more or less pointing at/across the windscreen. This produced a couple of effects:
- good centre image
- decreased width to just inside the a-pillar (which is where the tweeters were moved to, about 5cms in from each pillar
- excellent, 3d depth which I'd never had before in my car. Scored 13/15 for depth by the judges.
- reduced sibilance/harshness (I assume from not being on axis to the tweeter)
So, as pointed out above, before you do any tricky EQ-ing or delaying, is moving the tweeters around. It's easier with a mate where you can both muck around with driver positioning to see what works, and what effect each position has.
We used the explanation/voice over tracks on the Chesky UDD disc (on repeat) to do this, and it took about an hour.

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Quote
~Spyne~, on 18 December 2009 - 09:05 AM, said:
#5
Posted 12 November 2009 - 08:30 AM
as the topic goes:
How to achieve depth?
well dig a deaper hole.
once again
sorry
Daz
TRUSTED SELLERS: FUSION, RM AUDIO, FHRX, PULSE_R, PAC, FRANKIES, AUTOBARN CRANBOURNE, and some i have to remember. ( sorry )
#6
Posted 12 November 2009 - 08:58 AM
eclipse_DYN, on Nov 11 2009, 11:50 PM, said:
the depth should roughly be across the dash from where your mids are located, the further away the deeper the stage.
and as matt has said, you can achieve depth but loose width if you put your tweets up on the dash
Q: How do you know if you're too drunk to drive? A: You swerve to miss a tree then realise it's the air freshener hanging from the rear view mirror.
Albert Einstein: (you think he was thinking about the I.C.E. industry when he said the following?)
-We can't solve problems by using the same kind of thinking we used when we created them.
-Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the the universe.
-Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.
#7
Posted 12 November 2009 - 10:01 AM
Cure early reflections, and you'll find depth increases fairly substantially. Knocking your high end down in a rolloff fashion I've found to be fairly effective as well (as br85 has mentioned). This though, needs to tie in with an increased level from 7-12k over 1-4k to keep the height at a decent level.

Its all about the music. Always has been, always will be. Im here for the music.
#8
Posted 12 November 2009 - 10:19 AM
icacha, on Nov 12 2009, 08:58 AM, said:
This is usually the case but not always.
My far side stage width is out past the side mirror and the effect is quite striking sometimes. The challenge is to emulate that on my side of the car too...
Yes, my tweets and mids are on top of the dash.
Anyone ever put their tweeters on the dash in a ways from the pillars (thus still allowing a solid centre image) and fired them outwards to the pillars?
There's an idea for you...
Edited by Winno, 12 November 2009 - 10:21 AM.
Honda RB3 Odyssey Lux - 24 bitness and 5ch bipolar Class A/B activeness
Source/processor: Clarion HX-D2, Cleaved iP4
Amplification:Phoenix Gold Titanium 500.4 & 600.2, Alpine PDX4.150
Drivers:Audible Physics XR3M super wide band point source mid/tweeters, Seas Prestige L16RNSL midbasses, Infinity Perfect 10VQ sub, Fountek FR88EX wide band rears
Cables:Monster Cable XLN Pro, Monster Cable XLN S-16
The home:
Home two channel - Class A valve and ribbon goodness
Source: Sony XA5ES (Burson discrete op amps x 6)
Amplification: Bewitch KT88 class A valve integrated
Speakers:Aurum Cantus Leisure II ribbon monitors (EXO modded, hand made ribbons) & high massed Epos stands
Cables: Kimber Kable PBJ, 4TC, 8TC
#9
Posted 12 November 2009 - 10:38 AM

Those interested in ACT events click here!
Quote
~Spyne~, on 18 December 2009 - 09:05 AM, said:
#10
Posted 12 November 2009 - 12:10 PM
mebbe smoke and mirrors, helped me
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Whilst he was given a new amp after it could not be fixed, he never acknowledged any of the assistance given and bitches to this day about it.
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#11
Posted 12 November 2009 - 12:39 PM
br85, on Nov 11 2009, 11:52 PM, said:
It will just sound like ass at low and very low volumes. You win some, you lose some though.
I'll give that a go mate. I don't mind losing a bit at low volumes, as I do most of my listening at mid - high volume anyway. I currently have a 3db boost at 16khz with a q of 3 for a bit of added high end, but I'll try adjusting the other way and see what happens.
Winno, on Nov 12 2009, 06:56 AM, said:
'Usually' twisting the tweeter so that you're now off axis with it can yield good results at the expence of gain (which can be rectified through judicious use of eq or using a tweeter with a better off axis response in the first place).
From my experience, this is easiest achieved through angling and placement of drivers.
I've yet to experience a car with good depth of field by having drivers on axis with you. That's not to say that it's not been achieved of course.
To be honest, this should have been thought of as party to designing your pods in the first place. I'm thinking that although you love them and have the dollars put into them, you might have to change a few things to get a better result.
Unfortunately, no swivel or movement at all in my pods. I am buying a new car in the next 6 months, and I will seriously be considering whether to go with kick panels or dash/a pillar install this time. I have heard Woody's install with the 362's and the mid/tweet mounted high and it sounds brilliant.
Another thing I should have mentioned is that I have the tweet on -2 on the passive crossover. I've had to do this as I found that the tweeter protection was kicking it at high volumes otherwise. Of course I can lower the gain to counteract this, but then I lost volume through my midrange.....
Edited by eclipse_DYN, 12 November 2009 - 12:39 PM.
Processor - Alpine H701
Front Stage - Dynaudio System 362
Amp - Tru Tech S44
Amp - Eclipse PA5422
Subwoofer - Eclipse 15" Aluminium
Amp - Eclipse DA7122
#12
Posted 12 November 2009 - 06:06 PM
Winno, on Nov 12 2009, 11:19 AM, said:
I prefer a proper 3D stage with a height that varies when listening to my music. I'm not a fan of the compressed stage height i.e not quite the 3D stage music is intended to sound like when listening to the original recording, iPod wins here over CD's I have found. But if a compressed stage height is what helps you score better or sleep at night then everyone should knock themselves out with pillar mount mids and tweets... You all have my blessings
Q: How do you know if you're too drunk to drive? A: You swerve to miss a tree then realise it's the air freshener hanging from the rear view mirror.
Albert Einstein: (you think he was thinking about the I.C.E. industry when he said the following?)
-We can't solve problems by using the same kind of thinking we used when we created them.
-Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the the universe.
-Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.
#13
Posted 12 November 2009 - 06:12 PM
Q: How do you know if you're too drunk to drive? A: You swerve to miss a tree then realise it's the air freshener hanging from the rear view mirror.
Albert Einstein: (you think he was thinking about the I.C.E. industry when he said the following?)
-We can't solve problems by using the same kind of thinking we used when we created them.
-Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the the universe.
-Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.
#14
Posted 12 November 2009 - 10:34 PM
in home audio systems, more expensive equipment generally has improvements in both of these critical areas, and is easily the difference between "Oh, it's stereo I think" and "OMFG do you 'see' the sound stage! and that piano was too close to the wall when they did that recording".
it also helps to actually have some excellent recordings to listen to. 99.9999% are not good enough.
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~Spyne~, on 15 July 2009 - 07:33 PM, said:
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#15
Posted 13 November 2009 - 09:11 AM
icacha, on Nov 12 2009, 06:06 PM, said:
Who's getting a compressed stage height?
I'm not. I get good depth and good variation in height (and it's not rainbowing).
Was listening to a track the other day with a vocalist playing a guitar and vocals were dead ahead with the guitar positioned slightly lower in her lap.
Yes, there are some things that a kicks based system does very well but I have yet to hear one that is anywhere near as transparent as a dash top based system.
But yeah, whatever turns you on I guess. That's the challenge we all face in trying the get the best out of our systems.
Honda RB3 Odyssey Lux - 24 bitness and 5ch bipolar Class A/B activeness
Source/processor: Clarion HX-D2, Cleaved iP4
Amplification:Phoenix Gold Titanium 500.4 & 600.2, Alpine PDX4.150
Drivers:Audible Physics XR3M super wide band point source mid/tweeters, Seas Prestige L16RNSL midbasses, Infinity Perfect 10VQ sub, Fountek FR88EX wide band rears
Cables:Monster Cable XLN Pro, Monster Cable XLN S-16
The home:
Home two channel - Class A valve and ribbon goodness
Source: Sony XA5ES (Burson discrete op amps x 6)
Amplification: Bewitch KT88 class A valve integrated
Speakers:Aurum Cantus Leisure II ribbon monitors (EXO modded, hand made ribbons) & high massed Epos stands
Cables: Kimber Kable PBJ, 4TC, 8TC
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