63 replies to this topic

[Tiger]

OK, I've just been contemplating what midrange to run in my car (which I'm still installing... I know.. don't burn me for it already haha)

I've currently got 4" Philips GTM1050 cone midrange (wich will be coupled with a Vifa XT25 tweeter and dual 6.5" Philips GTM1750 midbass drivers). ALL speakers are running active.

Now, my question would be for SQ purposes... would it be advisable to run DOME mids? Or CONE mids? What would pros and cons be about each type of midrange speaker?

I have heard dome mids in Damo95's car in the past (Morel CDM-54) and Cyperpunky's/Shiny's cars (Dynaudio MD140/2) I can't think if I've even come across anybody in Vic using 4" cone mids. Could I be the first of my kind?

Just want thoughts and opinions.. gimme some food for thought, please

[Tiger]

I'll retract that comment about me being the only one in Vic to run cone mids... NiDeKCuS runs them. Dude..... get on here and tell me why you didn't get dome? Is it because HAT don't do dome mids?

Edited by Tiger, 22 January 2010 - 09:38 AM.

[simplesq]

Tiger, I understand your delemma as it's a similar situation I found myself in. Both have their advantages, typically domes are designed for the A-Pillars and will give you an easier installation without hacking up the car. You'll also benefit with tonality and phase as the mids are close to the tweeters.

However, I believe that there's swings and roundabouts with this idea. Typically dome mids play from 300hz-450hz upwards, have softer sound charictersitics and won't be as dynamic as a set of cones. Furthermore cones will get your midrange to go lower to at least 200hz.

IMHO - I prefer cones in the kicks for PLD's, don't limit myself to 4inches as I believe that the midrange should play from 150hz upwards and act as a true point source.

This is merely my opinion and I know that many will disagree...

Edited by simplesq, 22 January 2010 - 07:40 AM.

[HEKYEH]

Morning

I honestly don't know much about the difference between dome and cone midrange drivers....other than the shape

But I didn't just "jump on the bandwagon" and buy them without some consideration. I took into account the specs as well as the fact that Hybrid Audio is desigbed specifically for cars and these cars win a crapload of SQ comps all over the world.

I am using the L3, so it's "only" a 3" driver...but it plays a hell of a wide range. I'm going to test the in car frequency response on the weekend and I'm fairly confident it plays quite well from 250Hz up to around 6KHz....not too shabby

However, if u r going for a cone driver, I'd go the L4. It's a 4.65" midrange, so it's obviously quite big...and that's one of the reasons why I didn't get it. I wish I had...cos I am sure I could have made the bastard fit! It also has a sexy phase plug too

[Gonadman2]

Cones will play lower than domes.

Depending on budget I'd have a look at the Tang Band W4-1337 drivers. Excellent smooth sounding driver and will cost you less than $150 to your door. Plenty of positive reviews all over the net.

[Tiger]

Interesting points there, fellas

Those TB drivers look tough as! And that's actually not a bad price at all for them.

Keep the comments coming

[BMWTurbo]

I chose Cones because I wanted something that I could play below 400hz to get around the null in this area created by having MB's in the kicks firing at the trans tunnel.

[Tiger]

Ah ok Nice choice. I notive you have Tang Band mids too. How do you fell those particular drivers perform as opposed to anything else you have used, BMWTurbo?

[Luke352]

I'm using Dome's because I bought them before I knew all the differences between Dome's and Cones. I've stuck with them because they are easy to install and honestly I really like the sound of them, so see no need to change.


One item of importance with dome midrnage drivers, is unless they are a hard dome they should not be placed directly On Axis as the top of the dome tends to lag or distort, so when placed directly on axis this effect can tend to distort the sound, you will obviously still get this effect when Off axis since sound expands spherically, but it's effect is masked better when placed slightly Off axis 15-30deg's.

[Tiger]

That makes sense actually. I've noticed (now that you mention it) alot of the dome mid installs are off axis. Hmmm.... very interesting..

Keep 'em coming

[Luke352]

Tiger, on Jan 22 2010, 11:59 AM, said:

That makes sense actually. I've noticed (now that you mention it) alot of the dome mid installs are off axis. Hmmm.... very interesting..

Keep 'em coming

You don't want to take them to far Off Axis though as Domes follow the rules of physics like every other driver, the off axis roll off comes down to the diameter of the radiating surface, so take them to far off axis and you will get earlier high end roll off. The issue I mentioned effects every dome drivers but tweeters have fewer problems since they are smaller so it's easier to keep the dome stiff.

The reason they suffer this issue is the VC is connected to the outer edge of the dome, so the centre of the dome has nothing supporting it, some manufacturers have tried to avoid this issue by having a VC that is connected half way up the dome or at the domes centre, but that has it's own issues.

Cone's have the opposite issue in that the outer edges of the cone will start to ripple and distort because they are driven close to there centre and it's the outer edge that is left unsupported.

Edited by Luke352, 22 January 2010 - 12:11 PM.

[syd-monster]

- couple of things to think about.
a) the MID (that is from about 250Hz to 4Khz) is the most critical part of the sound spectrum, so if you are planning an upgrade, this is the one to take your time and get as best possible. Listen to as many as possible, preferably in similar cars & music you know etc. Not something to rush or "that'l do" on. This doesn't mean spending big too.

b) the car acoustics/environment weigh heavily on all this, so consider were will you be able to place the driver & the immediate materials, surfaces around it. Keep the basics right and even (that is LeftHS should mirror RightHS) as much as possible, PLD, early reflections, etc etc...

c) Think about x-over points of the other drivers and also consider a mid-bass upgrade.

Personally Cones have worked better for me in more installs than domes, but again this varies so much from install to install and then again all varies with a different tune, song or even opening a window.

[Tiger]

Top stuff, boys
I've definitely got a bit more knowledge on the midrange dilemna.
If there's anything else, I'm missing, feel free to comment. But that might just cover the bulk of it, I think.

[syd-monster]

One thing that could help is, take & post a pic of your the front of the interior of your car (dash/doors/kicks etc). Perhaps we can start by looking at the physical of the car.

[Tiger]

All details of the interior are in the build up thread (wave the cursor over my signature). But I might just post up pics from there over here to make things easier...

back in 5