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peerless SLS midbass


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#1 s4turn

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Posted 28 January 2010 - 08:57 PM

I've never heard or seen these speakers in person, but have read lots of reviews about them, being one of the best midbass drivers around

im looking at replacing my current 2 way setup with possibly a 3 way setup.

question is.. is the 8" worth getting over the 6.5"? as people have mentioned the 6.5" is sufficient

Ideally I wouldnt need to do anything to the door as such if I got the 6.5".. but would need to change a few things to fit the 8" in there



what sort of power do people put into these as well?

currently running w200 + h701

my boston amps currently are
gt20 - 55w rms x 2 @ 4 ohms
gt24 - running it at 2 ohms for sub at 900w rms powering a G5
gt42 - running it either at 95~ w rms x 4 or 350 x 2 at 4 ohms
possibly.. a gt40 55w rms x 4 or 240 w rms x 2


Im not entirely impressed with the boston z6's as such, after recently getting some scanspeak home audio drivers.. imo they are on a different level all together.
and would like to get nicer drivers for the car.. but on a budget.. otherwise Id be getting all Scanspeak drivers :D

about to place an order to get SB29 tweeters with the neo magnet? and also now looking at the 3" fullrange fountek drivers.. inspired by Muzzy :D

Edited by s4turn, 28 January 2010 - 09:02 PM.

Boston ---> Alpine ---> Scan-Speak

#2 Luke352

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Posted 28 January 2010 - 09:50 PM

Get the 8" once you've had 8's you wont go back to 6.5" midbass. I haven't hear a single 6.5 midbass driver that even holds a candle to a 8" midbass. The 6.5's can pull off the tonality of a kick drum but the realism just fails when there is no output to back it up.
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#3 muzzy66

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Posted 28 January 2010 - 10:02 PM

Funilly enough the SLS woofers are actually subs, not midbass drivers. They just happen to have low distortion and a very linear, extended response which allows them to be used much higher up in the frequency range then what typical subs can. The SLS 8's cam play high (and clean) enough that they can actually handle midbass better then mostactual midbass drivers can.

They're actually quite good at subbass as well, only really being liimited by their modest Xmax.

I would say to go one step above, and use a 10" XXLS as a midbass...but that would just be ludicrous lol
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---------------------------------------------------------
Source: Clarion HX-D2
Tweeter: Scan-Speak D3004/6020-00 (passive)
Midrange: Fountek FR88-EX (passive)
Midbass: Scan-Speak 18W/8535-00 (active)
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#4 muzzy66

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Posted 28 January 2010 - 10:06 PM

Luke352, on Jan 28 2010, 10:50 PM, said:

Get the 8" once you've had 8's you wont go back to 6.5" midbass. I haven't hear a single 6.5 midbass driver that even holds a candle to a 8" midbass. The 6.5's can pull off the tonality of a kick drum but the realism just fails when there is no output to back it up.

Seas L16's and Scan 8535's will produce midbass just as clean as a lot of 8's out there. That said, the lesser cone area means they will also proably run out of displacement sooner...which meanst the 8's will usually handle it better at higher listening levels.
2004 Alfa 147 Twin Spark
---------------------------------------------------------
Source: Clarion HX-D2
Tweeter: Scan-Speak D3004/6020-00 (passive)
Midrange: Fountek FR88-EX (passive)
Midbass: Scan-Speak 18W/8535-00 (active)
Speaker Amp: Tru Technology Billet B-475
Subwoofer: Peerless 830877 XLS 12"
Subwoofer Amp: Celestra VA210

#5 Luke352

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Posted 28 January 2010 - 10:35 PM

muzzy66, on Jan 28 2010, 10:06 PM, said:

Seas L16's and Scan 8535's will produce midbass just as clean as a lot of 8's out there. That said, the lesser cone area means they will also proably run out of displacement sooner...which meanst the 8's will usually handle it better at higher listening levels.


You are forgettin gsome things here though, the larger drivers need much less xmax to reach the same volume levels even modest ones which means lower distortion.

Also one of the main reason's I think the larger drivers sound better is to achieve the same dynamic peak the cone must move a much smaller amount whereas the smaller drivers have to move much further to acheive the same output which means there cones must excelerate 2-3x faster, so the smaller drivers really have to be very special to have any hope of acheiving that same impact and snap that a larger driver can achieve quite easily. Or to use a term you hear in the Home Audio fields, the pace and timing just sounds much much better.

Sorry but there is just no comparison, an average larger driver will still have it over a higher quality smaller driver, when we are talking about midbass and subbass. Unless you start using arrays, but again that just comes down to more cone area which drops the required excursion.

Edited by Luke352, 28 January 2010 - 10:40 PM.

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[SIZE=1]
HU Eclipse CD7000
F DLS UR36's
F Midbass Morel HCW8's
Subbass JBL W15Gti
Powered by ZED Leviathan

Car audio is all about compromise. There's no single best way to do anything. Optimization in the face of several variables ... often conflicting ... means compromise. The educated are better positioned to sort through the compromises than the opinionated. Werewolf/Lycan 28-11-2006

#6 syd-monster

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Posted 28 January 2010 - 10:48 PM

Get the 8's. Their bigger size means your more likely to be satisfied, than with the 6. Even if it means more work to fit them in, but done properly the rewards are worth it.
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#7 N15TURBO

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Posted 28 January 2010 - 11:13 PM

damm i remember my SLS
tight clean kicks, hard hitting midbass, low distortion

I was i never sold them, but the problem is they are so big in a pulsar door, that having the time to make proper door pods became an issue
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#8 Gonadman2

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Posted 29 January 2010 - 12:29 AM

I have SLS8's and one thing that is very important is to install them in sealed enclosures unless you get the High Q version. I had excellent results with them in the enclosures I built, best midbass in a car to date for me, but they sucked when run in 'Door Baffle' being really no better than the 6.5's I had and poling easily.

#9 hugsdrugs

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Posted 29 January 2010 - 02:21 AM

i have used the peerless 8" nomex and the 8535

the 8535 goes deeper and sounds smoother down lower

the nomex is more efficient doesn't dig lows good.

both drivers have in common they run out of excursion without keeping up with the tweeters.

both can go up to lower mid range and still sound fairly good.

when sealed deadened a bit better i found a flatter sound in lower octaves.

i'm hoping to pick up a sls 8 for my doors, never used them in videos they seem dynamic and clean

my other option is a jl zr 800 if not so dear

#10 s4turn

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Posted 29 January 2010 - 06:03 AM

cheers for the reply.

looks like the 8 will have to be the choice :D
just paid for my tweeters and mids
Boston ---> Alpine ---> Scan-Speak

#11 Pulse-R

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Posted 29 January 2010 - 05:12 PM

most people who have had 8" or more would never settle for 6" afterwards.
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#12 Gonadman2

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Posted 29 January 2010 - 07:36 PM

Pulse-R, on Jan 29 2010, 03:12 PM, said:

most people who have had 8" or more would never settle for 6" afterwards.
I had the SLS8's and found that if they aren't installed in enclosures then they perform below par. So I went back to CSS SDX7's which are a high excursion 6.5"midbass, although ultimately not as much midbass as the SLS8's they perform well enough.

#13 s4turn

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Posted 29 January 2010 - 08:40 PM

yeah... thats the thing.. :( I will just be sticking them in the doors.. and id have to make a solid baffle for them

my doors are heavily deaden and sealed up

Edited by s4turn, 29 January 2010 - 08:41 PM.

Boston ---> Alpine ---> Scan-Speak

#14 Gonadman2

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Posted 29 January 2010 - 09:18 PM

Based on my experience with these speakers, you will be disappointed with them configured like that.

#15 s4turn

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 07:10 AM

so ideally.. a completely sealed enclosure for these?
Boston ---> Alpine ---> Scan-Speak





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