20 replies to this topic

[TEGBOY]

HI all, I vaguely remember someone mentioned Dynaudio x360 passive xovers could be easily made into bi-amp units..

Does anyone know how to do this?

[shiny_car]

I presume you could open up the xovers, 'break' the connections from the input terminals to the 'woofer' xover (for example), then hardwire some new terminals/speakerwire.

Shouldn't be too hard.

[Damo95]

One of the members (KARAFLA) is tri-amping his Dynaudio 3 way passive..

[shiny_car]

It looks quite do-able. (I realise that's the X362 xover, but X360 is presumably very similar.)

For example, the 'air coil' probably just has a single end soldered to the POS track. Unsoldering this, and hardwiring it to new speakerwire, will isolate the LP filter for the woofer, for bi-amping purposes. Take it a step further and tri-amping shouldn't be too hard.

[Pulse-R]

if you dismount the coil for the midbass, you can attach some terminals directly to the legs, or carefully measure the DC resistance and inductance and have a new coil custom wound.

the second option saves from destroying the crossover.

the woofer and midrange are 6dB crossovers:

1 coil for the midbass, plus a cap and resistor for impedance correction (left hand side of pic)
1 coil, 1 cap and some resistors for the midrange (right of pic.).
1 coil, 1 cap, some resistors and a Thermistor for the tweeter (centre of pic.).

very simple, very easy.

Edited by Pulse-R, 22 April 2010 - 06:33 PM.

[TEGBOY]

*whoosh* sorry Simon, that went right over my head.. I will talk to you more about it soon, if that's cool?

[Pulse-R]

yeh, cool... basically, the woofer is the easiest to separate from the other two.

[TEGBOY]

I will be runnign the midbass active. It will only the midrange and tweeters bi-amped.

[Pulse-R]

ahhh, bit trickier then.

either need to completely disassemble the crossovers, and re-build them as separates,

or

make new ones with the same component values.

[Damo95]

then run full active!

[Frankston Car Audio]

Damo95, on 24 April 2010 - 02:13 PM, said:

then run full active!

I was thinking the same thing!

You still have your H701, Clint?

If you are able to bi-amp, then you already have enough amp channels.. so why use the passives?

I was going to do the same with my Morel LE Elates, originally.. then I thought to myself, WHY?

You can use the same x-over points and slopes if you are active, with the added advantage of changing these if necessary for your setup..

Just my $0.02

Mark

[TEGBOY]

The only reason I was going to go passive; everyone I have spoken with say Dyn's always sound better passive.

The mid and tweeter, was the one I was warned to run passive.... is that not really the case?

[Frankston Car Audio]

As far as I know, Simon runs his Dyn's active.. ? Correct me if I am wrong, Simon.
I seem to recall him saying he uses the same x-over points as the passives but actively..

The passive containing protection for the tweeter and zobel may be what was behind the warning you had?
I don't think you would be silly enough to damage them if you opted for active..

I just see more advantage with tunability using full active over active/passive.

I want to see you get the Foz right this time.. !

Mark

[Damo95]

you and me both Mark..

Clint.. sure.. most will say the dyn tweeters sound "warmer" when run off the passive..
but if you have the channels for active, then give it a shot using same crossover points/slopes..

[eclipse_DYN]

You could use the 2way Dyn crossover (x250 I think????) for midrange and tweet, and run the midbass active. That would allow you to set your own HP on the midrange, and LP the midbass a little lower. 700hz seems to work well for my Dyn's.