5 replies to this topic

[Big_Valven]

Some mounting details will differ slightly for pre-VT commodores, but the antennae are identical.

PARTS:
VN-VZ Commodore Replacement Mast - Aerpro P/N AP250, about $42 from your local auto store.

TOOLS:
Phillips head screwdriver
Pliers
13mm socket

PROCESS:
Here is my broken antenna.


Remove the front left wheel. If you can't get to this stage I recommend taking it to a professional! Note that you don't actually need to remove the front bumper or open the bonnet, nor do you need absolutely stuffed brake rotors... I was doing other work at the time...
Sometimes you can turn the steering wheel to full lock right and get enough clearance to get the panel off without removing the wheel, but it is a lot easier this way and nearly essential if you're running 235s or larger.


Remove the fasteners as marked on these photos to remove the wheel arch liner partially. The plastic pins are a pain, they jam easily.






You can then undo the 13mm bolt and earthing screw.




You can then pull a little bit of antenna cable out of the inner quarter panel and swing the top of the antenna down and out. Remove the chrome nut at top.


Remove the remnants of the broken mast. If the rope (plastic toothed cord) is still in it, you will need to turn the radio on to raise the antenna, so the cord comes out. Mine was quite tight, required some tough love to remove. The black plastic bush can come out too.





The new mast and rope.


Note the orientation of the motor, and the teeth on the cord. Turn the radio on and allow the motor to "raise" the non-existant antenna - you may have to push the antenna body against the car to ground it and turn it on whilst removed. Push the cord in until you feel it stop, then turn the radio off to lower the antenna. You may need to feed it in a little, but it will take and lower most of the way eventually.




Put the chrome top nut back on and raise and lower the antenna a few times, it will click at the stops a few times, and eventually even out and run smoothly, and stop in the correct points.


Feed the tip of the antenna back into the antenna bezel on the quarter panel.


It is then simply a matter of screwing the ground lead back in, re-mounting the body of the antenna with the 13mm bolt, and putting the wheel arch liner back in.

[Spink!]

Great write up mate, thanks for taking the time out to do it.

[D34M0N.inc]

To replace the whole motor assembly do you have to remove the whole guard itself (Just asking for future reference if my dads one dies) 

Thanks for the tut though really helpfull.

[Big_Valven]

D34M0N.inc, on 27 July 2010 - 01:15 AM, said:

To replace the whole motor assembly do you have to remove the whole guard itself (Just asking for future reference if my dads one dies)

Thanks for the tut though really helpfull.

Nope. The entire antenna and motor will come out through the wheel arch liner gap just fine.

Incidentally, Holden's techlines instruct you to remove the whole antenna assembly and work on it outside of the car. I don't do this mainly because it requires you to get into the passenger kick panel to unplug the antenna cable, pop the grommet and pull the cable out, then re-fit it after. Not worth the effort if you are simply replacing the mast.

[D34M0N.inc]

Ok thanks for that. How do you know that the mast needs replacing and not the whole lot? Or did your antenna snap off or something? 

[Darkness_GR]

don't forget if the cord of the maast looks broken when you pull it out you will need to open up the arial and pull out the left over bits inside, as it may cause issues with the new mast and cord.

Grant