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Making spacers


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#1 SleeperSaab

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Posted 01 February 2011 - 07:58 AM

Okay, I have been in the habit lately of taking photos as I do stuff on the car, so I thought I'd do a quick pictorial tutorial about making spacers and the importance of testing.

I originally set up my door speakers with a cutout mdf spacer on the door and a second one on the trim with some closed cell foam in between. Then I mounted the speaker on the outside of the door to hold it all together. I have now decided that I'd like the more stock look and therefore I'm moving the speaker behind the trim.

These were the spacers I originally cut out and used on the doors.

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Another reason why I'm moving them is because I didn't seal them, so I'm worried about them swelling over time. I had decided to remove the spacers and paint them.

First thing I did was measure up exactly where they needed to be. Then I put a ring of liquid nails type goop inbetween the two spacers and screwed them in place to hold them while they set. I also smoothed the goop that oozed out around the edges to form a good seal. Then I applied a layer of sealing paint and when that was dry I hit it with a layer of spray laquer. The laquer will help with the water proofing, and the sealer should stop the water getting in.

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Okay, I know it looks ugly, but noone will see it, right? Anyway, the next step was to put foam on the top of it to help seal the speaker to the spacer. This is just to make sure there's no air escaping around the speaker.

I used close cell foam that only maybe 3 or 4 mm thick. I traced around the spacer, cut it out and made sure it fit - remember testing is important.

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Then I removed the foam, put the speaker in there (testing is important) to make sure it fit and then stuck the sharpie in to work out where the holes need to be for mounting. Now I have discovered in the past that drilling/screwing through foam makes the foam tear off and spin around on your drill, so I have decided to make holes in the foam around the drill holes. To do this, I marked the drill holes with arrows and then slowly cut away the foam until the holes were showing.

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I didn't actually glue the foam to the spacer (just in case - remember testing first), but decided that I need to test to make sure that everything aligns. I then got the spacer and bolted it to the door. I put the foam on and then screwed the speaker into the spacer. Remember, this is to test that everything fits in place well.

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All looking good right? Everything fits in well and now I'm ready to test that the door trim fits over the speaker okay.

You're probably sitting there reading this thinking, what's with all this testing - just do it already. But, I have found that it is very important, although time consuming, to test as you go. And you want to know why?

Take a look at the below pictures. They are taken after I refitted the door trim to makes sure everything fits in properly (testing is important).

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Hmmm.... seems to be slightly off centre.... Posted Image

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Um, yes. That is a 2.5 cm gap between the door trim and the door. I wonder is that will let much air out.....

So, THIS is why testing is important. I'm even thinking that I maybe should have tested at some earlier point.

Now it's back to the drawing board to see how I'm going to fix this.... grrrr.

#2 jukebox

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 03:57 PM

get the best of both worlds...

centre that speaker, make a new trim panel with hole in the middle, so the speaker grille only shows thru.. no mounting points etc.. would look trick and is very simple to do aswell..

as for the door seals.. i wouldnt worry too much about the outter edges.. its much easier to concentrate on the area surrounding the midrange and add foam around the speaker, so when the door is pressed on, it creates a seal..

my 2c..

#3 SleeperSaab

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 11:38 PM

get the best of both worlds...

centre that speaker, make a new trim panel with hole in the middle, so the speaker grille only shows thru.. no mounting points etc.. would look trick and is very simple to do aswell..

as for the door seals.. i wouldnt worry too much about the outter edges.. its much easier to concentrate on the area surrounding the midrange and add foam around the speaker, so when the door is pressed on, it creates a seal..

my 2c..


Oh, believe me, I've thought of that. However, it was kind of like that before, and the idea behind moving it was to get some more dynamat behind the door, paint the spacer to make it last longer and hide the speaker so the car looks more stock. I'm also going to seal up the service holes and put foam around the outside, but I need to finish all the work on the speaker first.

If there's a huge bulge, it won't look so standard. But hey, if at first you don't succeed.....

I'll post how it turned out after I finish it on the weekend. At least I've only done one side. :)

#4 SleeperSaab

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Posted 08 February 2011 - 07:26 AM

Alright, I've fixed the problem.

I've been through and "modified" my spacer so that it fits now.

The problem is that I was working on this between 9 and midnight last night, so I couldn't use power tools...

This being the case, I have carefully butchered the spacer into cooperation using a handsaw, a stanley knife and some sandpaper. Here's the finished product.

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Then I gave it a lick of paint...

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And it was ready to install...

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I whacked the door trim back on and it now actually sits better than it ever has before!

Just for testing and yay for spacers!!

(I'm sad, I know)

Edited by SleeperSaab, 08 February 2011 - 07:27 AM.


#5 mosoto

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Posted 08 February 2011 - 08:48 AM

If the front face of that spacer is not even as it looks in the pic, you'll risk gaps between the speaker/spacer or twisting the speaker basket. May I suggest you get a large sheet of 180 & 240grit on a very flat surface and sand the face of that puppy smooth.

#6 SleeperSaab

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Posted 08 February 2011 - 09:45 AM

If the front face of that spacer is not even as it looks in the pic, you'll risk gaps between the speaker/spacer or twisting the speaker basket. May I suggest you get a large sheet of 180 & 240grit on a very flat surface and sand the face of that puppy smooth.


An excellent suggestion, my man, and one I thought of until I realised that my sandpaper was packed away with a huge major hassle to get to it. Therefore, the closed cell foam. And I couldn't use my sander because of the time.

Also, my precise butchering has allowed for the speaker sitting pretty close to flush. I have screwed the speaker in pretty tightly so the closed cell foam has compacted a little in the areas needed and filled the gap. I will make sure the cut is more square on the left hand side, though, so it's closer.

Thanks for the tip!

#7 SleeperSaab

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 12:57 AM

Okay, well Today I put in practice the stuff I lerned on the right hand door and have now done the left hand door, but in a lot less time. And I did the spacer from the start properly.

I must say, about 20 hours and a couple of hundreds dollars later, I can now open my glove box fully.

One of the reasons for moving the speaker was because the grill on the outside of the door trim got in the way of the glovebox door. I have now dynamatted the ourter and inner skin of the door, installed Dynazorbs and shored the spacers up. i her for a drive to test tonight and the sound difference is amazing.

I'm now going to have to call back in to FHRX and ask the guys nicely to give me a little tune up on the amps, fix the bridging problem and I'll be getting the most out of my system with what I have. I've also paved the way for being able to upgrade the front stage if I want to without any real dramas.

#8 rob323

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 03:48 PM

As an alternative to mdf, I recently made some spacers from some Corian I had lying around (and available as scraps from Kitchen cabinet makers).
Easy to work with (using the same tools as you would for mdf), waterproof, and easy to counterbore holes for nuts in the back so I can bolt the driver in rather than use self tappers.

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#9 Winno

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Posted 26 July 2011 - 08:53 PM

Solid acrylic kitchen chopping boards are also good for making spacers. You'll have to laminate them of course but that's ok. Cheap azz too.

#10 mosoto

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Posted 27 July 2011 - 02:15 PM

Corian..........what a kick ass idea. WD

#11 rob323

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Posted 27 July 2011 - 02:42 PM

It's the first time I've used Corian for this application. It's not perfect. It is a bit brittle so you can't go too thin, even those spacers I made have some small stress fractures in them from them flexing while machining them.
It also has a reasonably high resonant frequency so not ideal for mounting quality midranges to unless you can dampen it somehow (a layer of dynamat between the driver and the corian should do it).

#12 mosoto

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Posted 27 July 2011 - 09:11 PM

Really, I thought it'd be fairly forgiving. Ok, chopping board is a good option then :P