16 replies to this topic

[MY04BA]

Hey All,

Just need a bit of help. I'm looking at going active in the Falcon but I just need some clarification.

Speakers are Focal 165KR2 splits, Amp is a Tru S44. The Power RMS of the speakers is 80w, 160w Peak (Not sure on what the tweeters are rated at). The Amp specs are 4x65w at 4ohm, 2 x 100w @ 2ohm or 2 x 200w @ 4ohm.

I also have a JL 300/4 which I could use soley to run the tweeters.

My question is will 4 x 65w be enough power to get the Focals sounding nice if I run the woofers and tweets off the one amp? or should I run just the woofers off one amp and tweets off the JL?

It's all so confusing to me.

If any more info is required let me know.

Thanks in Advance =]

Sam,

[Gonadman2]

More power is always better, but the real question is, how loud do you listen to your music? If it is just before amp clipping, then more headroom from bridging the amps is a good thing. If you listen at moderate volumes and find the current output from the Tru amp adequate, then I see no reason to complicate what you're doing (going active) any further.

[~Spyne~]

Focal are a wierd bunch - passively, the KR2 set presents a 2ohm load.
Actively, the TNK tweeter is 8omhs while the 6KR2 midwoofer is about 3ohms (someone able to confirm?, my google-fu is lacking)
So with the Tru amp, the tweeter will only be seeing ~30wrms (potential RMS), while the midbass will see up to ~ 110wrms (potential RMS).

[MY04BA]

The volume it's at now is still loud so I don't need it to go any louder.

So I should be able stay with just the Tru amp and leave it at that?

[MR SPL]

Il be looking into going active very soon aswell. Have a set of KRX2 so i was wondering what they present active!

Anyone know?

[Gonadman2]

I'd stick with the Tru Tech. The amount energy required to stimulate the air to 100db at 100hz is much higher than the energy required to do the same level at 10khz. So more power/headroom on the midbass is never an issue.

Looking at the specs for the S44 shows that it makes 100WRMS into 2ohms, this will be plenty to drive your midbasses.

What are you using to perform the active processing?

[MY04BA]

Just using the Alpine 9887 headunit for the processing for now. Going to look at maybe a H-800 later on down the track

[Gonadman2]

That will be fine. I'd throw it all in active and see how you go. Just checked out your build thread, it looks nice and neat and functional. Why did you sidegrade to the Tru Tech amp? I've had stellar service (and sound) from my JL Slash amps... They are freaks!

[MY04BA]

Ummm it was a few months ago now. I only changed cos I was having major problems with the JL and was sick of pulling it apart and pushing the boards back together. At nationals last year it kept dropping the right channel so 10 mins before judging I had to pull it apart, that was the straw that broke the camels back so once I got back I got a new amp. The JL's are a fantastic amp it's just the boards inside coming apart that annoyed me.

I've still got the JL it's at my brother's plave. i'm gonna try and repair it and keep it in case of emergency. One of the grub screws is also stripped so I have to figure out what i'm going to do to fix that

[Gonadman2]

Il be looking into going active very soon aswell. Have a set of KRX2 so i was wondering what they present active!

Anyone know?

Spyne was spot on.

TNK Tweeter = 8ohms

6 KR2 Woofer = 2ohms

[muzzy66]

4 x 65w is heaps if running active, especially given that (IIRC) the Focal's are fairly high sensitivity drivers...and considering that Tru are said by many to be quite underated in their claimed power output (i.e. produce more then they claim).

One thing I would be careful about is that the Focal tweeters don't handle low frequencies well at all...be very careful not to cross them too low if you're going active (or to shallow a slope) or you might end up with fried tweeters.

I think the factory XO is upwards of 3khz and somewhere around 12dB or 18dB per octave.

[MR SPL]

Yeah i did some testing tonight on my TN53K focal tweeters from my KRX2 set. Distort really early on 2 KHZ, still distort on 3 KHZ and okayish on 4 KHZ. I can see me changing tweeters

[scraverX]

I've been considering going active with my Precision Power splits, but I might hold off until I see how I go at ACT Round 1 this weekend.

[muzzy66]

Yeah i did some testing tonight on my TN53K focal tweeters from my KRX2 set. Distort really early on 2 KHZ, still distort on 3 KHZ and okayish on 4 KHZ. I can see me changing tweeters

Not a bad idea, because the Focal K series mids are actually really nice. The only real thing holding back the K series Focal's is the high crossover - neccessary to protect the tweeters, but makes it tough to get good upper midrange when off axis in a car door.

They would sound bloody brilliant matched to some Peerless HDS, Scanspeak Illuminator or SB Acoustic SB29 tweeters...all of which work nicely crossed at 2khz. Neither of these will matchthe Focal crossover though...you'd need to go active pretty much.

[MR SPL]

Thats fine cause i just brought an alpine h701. So planning to go full active! I agree i really like the mids just the tweeters bring them down. I will start looking into tweeter options! Any other ideas?

Sorry to highjack thread!

[MY04BA]

That's cool.

So this might sound dumb of me but to go active do I just switch it to active on the 9887 and then take the speaker wires out of the passive crossovers and put them straight into the amp? Then tune it of course.

Is that right or can someone advise on how to do it properly

Edited by MY04BA, 31 March 2011 - 08:39 PM.

[Riley.]

That's cool.

So this might sound dumb of me but to go active do I just switch it to active on the 9887 and then take the speaker wires out of the passive crossovers and put them straight into the amp? Then tune it of course.

Is that right or can someone advise on how to do it properly

when i did it i used the front for tweets and the rears for mids....allows you to EQ, crossover and time align tweets and mids individually

but yes the way you have your crossovers at the rear is really handy as you just wire the speakers into the amp - id set some basic gains and crossovers on the tweeter channel before turning anything on too