simplesq, on 30 November 2011 - 04:40 PM, said:
*snip* this there are 6.5inch midbass drivers that sound great...
Maybe so, but almost always garbage while driving unless you listen to top 40's with no real dynamic range (4-10dB)
Let's take a look at a MASSIVE excursion 6.5" driver (a large cone area for a 6.5" is about 145cm^2 and 6mm one way is about as much as you'll get unless it's a sub)
Plugging the values in from the spreadsheet I linked earlier, we get a MAXIMUM of 95dB @ 71hz, which is pathetic. Why? Because in a VERY quiet car, you're up against no less than 70dB of road noise in this frequency range. An acceptable recording has at least 10dB of dynamic range, which means that quieter sections of some songs will be a MAXIMUM of 85dB. Why this is a problem is that means road noise is making up about 4% distortion in your midbass region, and it's REALLY NASTY distortion because it's not harmonic in any way, shape or form. MUCH larger amounts of harmonic distortion (especially low order stuff) is acceptable because it's literally "harmonious" to what you're listening to (remember this is ALL about music, people). I haven't taken into account cabin gain because I also haven't taken into account the fact that a car door is not a true monopole, ever. For all intents and purposes these 2 cancel each other out, for now.
Why does this ~4% distortion bother me SO MUCH? Because it goes largely ignored while some poor audiophile (victim of advertising) goes and buys a very expensive amp because it has less than 0.01% THD, and chances are, he's running a MUCH lower excursion 6.5" driver in his door (most "audiophile" 6.5 inch speakers are very low to make sure upper midrange sounds good... goodness knows why in a car but w/e) and he's dealing with well over 10% of TERRRIBLE road noise distortion battling his midbass drivers (this is with the volume knob turned up as high as it goes without damaging the drivers, too)
So, at this point, before we even speak about imaging, tonal accuracy, less-than-ideal speaker baffles, sufficient power or the harsh, reflective environment and transfer function of a car, a typical "audiophile" system (let's say a brax amplifier and some high end dynaudio components in the doors) costing around $8k or more actually sounds certifiably worse than someone who has put in 2 X cheap 6.5" per door running off a $350 bread and butter amp, at least in the midbass region, ON THE ROAD.
/rant.