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Finezy.inc, on 27 December 2011 - 08:25 PM, said:
Yes
it is a 50mm baffle Steve
and one thing i figured out while building this box is.... using a router to cut though the full 50mm is being greedy LOL
Should have cut the holes first and then glued the baffles together
other than that the box came together good.
i built it at 4 cubez after displacement... (3.99 to be exact) and the port is tuned to 42.5hz for a slightly SPL orientated application
Did I do well???
it is a 50mm baffle Steve
and one thing i figured out while building this box is.... using a router to cut though the full 50mm is being greedy LOLShould have cut the holes first and then glued the baffles together
other than that the box came together good.i built it at 4 cubez after displacement... (3.99 to be exact) and the port is tuned to 42.5hz for a slightly SPL orientated application
Did I do well???
you did well young paduwan!!
subs like this can be hard and alot of experience and knowledge come into it...more so than graphs or specs...
being rated at 7,000rms and i have no doubt these things can handle at least close to that, it becomes a case of TRYING to get it to work well... generally speaking you can get a 1000rms subs, throw 1500rms at it and it will reach xmax in most enclosures, but when you have 7000rms of power handling, the issue becomes getting the damn thing to move... as i know you guys will be running less than rated power into it, you get both a good, and bad reaction... good being that it's less than rated power, so within a "safe zone" if you will, but the next issue you run into is that even 2,000rms is alot of power, and the way subs stay cool, is by moving...
so obviously this is all in theory, but you have 2000rms, enough to melt most subs running into this sub that will supposedly handle it without a sweat, BUT that much power isn't enough to get the sub moving enough to actually cool itself off, so you have the issue that altho the sub should be able to handle 2000rms easily, not having the cone and soft parts moving enough to draw cool air pat the coil will end up killing it....
so it becomes VERY hard to ensure the setup will work well....
BUT i think you've done alright, actually i think you'r doing AWESOME with all your boxes!! this one is very much what i would consider "text book" but i think it will work alright, as above, especially tuning at 40hz i would have made the box bigger, with a much larger port, both to aid efficiency, and to lessen the amount of cushion the air inside the enclosure will provide... make sense...? bigger box and port will basically means a sub CAN reach XMAX off lower power, your power handling suffers, but when your running less than rated power, thats not a bad thing....
the opposite can be said too, if your running MORE than rated power, you can make the enclosure smaller, so as to provide more cushioning, and prevent the woofer from reaching xmax too early... (if only they made a nasal spray for subs bahahaha) but then you run into issues with the thermal power handling...
just something to keep in mind for the future.. but i think you've done a FANTASTIC job with this box!!
