85 replies to this topic

[President Obama]

Once again I'm being a silly double post but this is a bit of a situation I think. I installed my new head unit today, (haven't got amps and sub yet) and wired them up. After about 5 minutes the heat sync on the amp was really bloody hot pretty much burning me. Now the problem is when the headunit is in the head sync sits about .5cm away from the heater plastic piping and cables rest against it that I simply can't move. Now I'm assuming this is becuase its using the in built amps, I'm hoping you will tell me that when I put in the new amps that it won't use the built in amps and won't get as hot, otherwise I dunno what the f*** I'm going to do, it seems like quite the fire hazard.

[shiny_car]

Yeah, if you don't actually run speakers off the HU, the heatsink won't be so hot (presuming it's sitting over the inbuilt amplifier ICs).

[President Obama]

Sub and amps finally arrived today, taken forever. I was just looking over the settings and stuff, and was wondering what should I be setting the frequency filters and crap of the amps to? Like I don't want any bass to go to my speakers as they aren't the best at the bass and I want bass going to the sub. So just some recommendations would be nice?

[shiny_car]

Have a read of the tute for settings gains/xovers: http://www.mobileele...ver-adjustment/

Start there, ask questions later.

[President Obama]

Well could be a day or so till I actually get up to that bloody stage. I went to plug in the rca cables and there is simply not enough room behind the headunit to plug them in. So now I have to go to town and buy some right angle rca connectors and bring the headunit out by a 1-2cm. What fun! Though thanks for that tut, should make the whole process a whole lot easier.

Edited by President Obama, 03 February 2012 - 07:44 PM.

[President Obama]

Ok Double posting again but same reason this is really kinda important. I've wired up the amps and head unit and got it all working, except theres a massive voltage leak in the amps (huge sparks at the battery terminals when joining and it looses about 0.01 volts every 45seconds). I've managed to source it to the amps but I doubt both amps would be broken enough to be drawing current while the power control is off. The only thing that stopped it was removing the fuse in the amp. I've gone crazy looking over it. I'm now thinking the power control might be dodgy even though its the same one that runs the headunit and its fine. Anyway hoping you have some ideas on this.

Edited by President Obama, 06 February 2012 - 08:02 PM.

[justdofit]

Is the trigger wire on the amps connected to the remote turn on lead from the head unit?

[President Obama]

justdofit, on 06 February 2012 - 08:23 PM, said:

Is the trigger wire on the amps connected to the remote turn on lead from the head unit?

Yes. I tried disconnecting it and, I had all other terminals on the battery disconnected.

Edited by President Obama, 06 February 2012 - 08:32 PM.

[justdofit]

Hard to figure out from words, do you have a camera phone?

[President Obama]

Uh yeah but its night time and theres no outside lights? Have to wait till tomorrow afternoon? Really I just run a 4 gauge cable from the battery to a 60A fuse then more 4 gauge along the engine bay into the cab. Which it eventually hits a distro box with 2 40A fuses in it for each amp. I removed one fuse and tested each amp they both did the same thing. I then run 8gauge power to the each of the amps. The subwoofer amp has the power, ground and power control lead in it. I haven't finished the box, so I haven't wired up the sub yet. The speakers amp has the same but with the speakers. Both of the amps also have the RCA leads plugged in. I scratched off the paint and screwed the earth's separately. None of the wires are really touching. With the power control, I wired it from the head unit to a little wire wrapped around the rca leads and then connected it to the amps. Thats about the best description I can give for now, till tomorrow afternoon when I get a photo.

This may seem obvious to say, but the amps don't have any lights or anything on, when the power is connected. The amps also seemed to have a capacitor or something? I removed the red terminal and touched the earth with it and it sparked still.

Edited by President Obama, 06 February 2012 - 08:49 PM.

[justdofit]

Does the head unit turn off (completely) when the car is turned off?

If so, is there any chance that the remote wire is touching the positive at all?
Edit: if not at the amp end, perhaps at the head unit end? How tidy is the wiring harness?

When you say the amp causes a constant leak, is the amp actually running when the head unit turns off?

Edited by justdofit, 06 February 2012 - 08:57 PM.

[President Obama]

The head unit is properly wired to the ignition and does turn off when the car is off. The amps only light up and turn on when the headunit has music running through it. If the headunit is on, but no music, no amps. There is no way the remote wire could be touching the positive, I super wrapped all connections in electrical tape, except the ones directly on the amp. Also I forgot to mention the headunit does not run on the same circuit as the amps, it runs on the circuit that was there from the original radio that was in there. So when I disconnected the other terminals from the battery the headunit shouldn't of been able to give power to the remote wire anyway.

Edited by President Obama, 06 February 2012 - 09:01 PM.

[justdofit]

Usually an amplifier will power up whenever the head unit is on, regardless of whether music is playing or not.

Did you go with the pioneer amps earlier in your thread? I'll dig out the laptop (damn sh!tty iPhone) download the manual and have a read. The amps may have some sort of auto sense on the RCAs or something?

[justdofit]

No sign of the manual on the AUS website, the US model appears the same http://www.pioneerel...T+OWNERS+MANUAL

Nothing out of the ordinary there. Get some shots tomorrow afternoon as a picture tells a thousand words.

Sounds like everything is spot on though - so you'll get it sorted, extra bonus points for sensible fusing!

[President Obama]

Yeah I went with the pioneer and the kenwood. I think it may be the headunit, that does the autosense but Ill check with a volt meter tomorrow. Though I think I did read something in the pioneer manual about a feature similar to autosense or something.