26 replies to this topic

[shiny_car]

A 'pop' won't hurt the speakers. But I've not known an Alpine HU to generate a pop like that, so something is odd. If the amp is producing the pop, then nothing you can do about that.

Basically, the pop is either generated from the HU when it turns on, and that is being amplified by the amp. Or the amp is producing the pop. One or the other could be faulty, cos Alpine and RF are quality brands that should have this issue.

The best way to check, is replace the HU and amp with other ones that are known to be good. Unfortunately most people don't have spare gear lying around, so you might need to go to a store to have the system checked out.

[Mr. Drifter]

ah true. I'm not sure which one it could be, The speakers were fine off the headunits internal amp...
But yeah, might take it to adrian in april and see what he thinks

Thanks shiny

[AJ (LOUDA1)]

Youll know if it's the amp if you unplug the rcas from the amp and it still does it, if it doesn't it's more than likely the headunit.. I did this to realise my zed laviathon turn on pops when going from acc and starting the car...

(null)

[Mr. Drifter]

that is a fair point. Will go out and try in a bit.

so since it does no real damage, it's not really that big a deal is it? or could it get worse?
Just thinking cause if it is the amp, to send it back to get repaired (assuming it could break something) would cost loooooots... what with it being like 12kg and huge... >.>

[shiny_car]

AJ (LOUDA1), on 09 February 2012 - 11:50 AM, said:

Youll know if it's the amp if you unplug the rcas from the amp and it still does it, if it doesn't it's more than likely the headunit..

Good idea.

Ben-Drifter, on 09 February 2012 - 12:00 PM, said:

so since it does no real damage, it's not really that big a deal is it? or could it get worse?
Just thinking cause if it is the amp, to send it back to get repaired (assuming it could break something) would cost loooooots... what with it being like 12kg and huge... >.>

Unlikely to become worse and cause damage. More an annoyance.

[Mr. Drifter]

Took the rca's out, and as far as i could tell, No pop.. Put it back in, and I couldn't hear it... probably wasn't up loud enough to hear it >.>

But, good to know.

Also, I found the manual for the amp, along with the bass remote.. Considering mounting it under the dash in a nice spot next to the steering wheel... Might look into the sub box first.
Just to clarify, I mean the remote, not the manual... mounting the manual under the dash may come in handy once or twice, but I think it'd get in the way a bit too much

Edited by Ben-Drifter, 10 February 2012 - 12:07 AM.

[Mr. Drifter]

One more question:

If I build a sealed box, what things should I look at exactly? Obviously size and displacement.. but like, do I have to tune it at all? Or is it just size up and off we go? What would I need to take into account for it?

[shiny_car]

With sealed, it's only the size (internal volume) that matter. By 'tuning', we are nearly always referring to ported boxes, and the dimensions of the port.

Of course, determining the box size for a sealed box is technically a form of 'tuning', but it's not what we're usually talking about.

[Mr. Drifter]

Ah sweet, thanks shiny

[Mr. Drifter]

Just one more question

I've been offered a trade of my alpine sws-1223d for a JVC cs-dx120 for $30-40
I checked the specs of both and the jvc has a better frequency range of 20-1000hz whereas the alpine has 27-700hz.. the jvc has a sensitivity of 85db whilst alpine has 86db sens.

Copypasta specs:
JVC CS-DX120 12" Subwoofer


• 2000W Max./700W Nom. Music Power
• 4Ù Dual-Input Voice Coil
• Full-covered Aluminum Diaphragm
• Custom Die-cast Aluminum Frame
• Butyl rubber Edge
• 125.2oz Double Stacked Strontium Magnet
• Nickel-Plated Screw Terminals
• Frequency Range: 20–1000Hz
• Sensitivity: 85dB/W.m


Alpine type s:

Dual 2ohms
27-700hz
86db Sensitivity
12.8mm xmax (mm)
Glass fiber and pulp/kevlar - woofer composition
Santoprene - Woofer surround

Should I do it? I'm running it from a rockford power1000.. also size may be an issue. but can invert the sub if need be.
What would you choose?

Edited by Ben-Drifter, 14 February 2012 - 05:57 PM.

[shiny_car]

...not based on specs. The specs are pretty useless. Whether the sub can play down to 20Hz or 27Hz is kinda a marketing thing. Not much music goes that low, and irrespective of the specs, most subs won't play that low very loudly. Being able to play up to 1kHz is pretty pointless, when you typically lowpass the sub at about 100Hz. The overall performance depends largely on the box design too.

So it's very much a situation of: 'the specs don't tell you how good the sub sounds'. I know nothing about the JVC, so I can't comment there. The Type-S is definitely a good sub for the money; whether the JVC is much better or worse or just the same...can't say.

But the MAJOR difference is the Type-S being dual 2ohm, and the JVC being dual 4ohm. What do you want or need? What amplifier will the sub run off?

[Mr. Drifter]

A rockford power1000
So either way, the amp will power either sub well enough. 2ohms puts out 700~ and 1ohm 1000~ (i think) and 4ohm 500~ i think.

So which ever way, it would work.
I suppose with the type s though, I'd have more headroom..
And it's a smaller driver, so I suppose it means I'm not as limited.

Eh, Might stick with the type s then. I've heard it, and I have the power (I HAVE THE POWER *coughs*) / headroom.