Forza 4 MEA club challenge thread.
#61
Posted 15 April 2012 - 10:57 PM

06 Toyota Corolla Conquest Wagon
HU: Alpine CDA-9887
Subs: 2 x 12" Crossfire P1
Sub Amp: Crossfire BMF1000D
Factory Fronts and Rears
WCSO Alberts Myaree:
SPL: 2nd Place Street B, 140.9dB
press Alt + F4 for install pics
Fudd, on 02 October 2009 - 11:16 AM, said:
Charger, on 01 March 2010 - 03:16 PM, said:
#62
Posted 15 April 2012 - 11:17 PM
#63
Posted 16 April 2012 - 12:36 AM
Cide, on 15 April 2012 - 10:57 PM, said:
yup, there's a heap of assists you can turn on or of at your pleasure...most of us have almost everything off, i know i only have braking line, and manual without clutch, otherwise everything is just off...
#64
Posted 16 April 2012 - 07:48 AM
So I just run racing line off, abs on, tcs off, sc off, manual w/out clutch. ezpz. don't like abs off
#65
Posted 16 April 2012 - 09:50 AM

06 Toyota Corolla Conquest Wagon
HU: Alpine CDA-9887
Subs: 2 x 12" Crossfire P1
Sub Amp: Crossfire BMF1000D
Factory Fronts and Rears
WCSO Alberts Myaree:
SPL: 2nd Place Street B, 140.9dB
press Alt + F4 for install pics
Fudd, on 02 October 2009 - 11:16 AM, said:
Charger, on 01 March 2010 - 03:16 PM, said:
#66
Posted 16 April 2012 - 11:37 AM
as for turning the assists on or off cide, you can do it in all the pre-race menus, which "i think" makes it stick...? but if not you should be able to do so in a pre race menu for season play, and that should make it stick...
#67
Posted 16 April 2012 - 03:00 PM
#68
Posted 16 April 2012 - 03:43 PM
Mr. Drifter, on 16 April 2012 - 03:00 PM, said:
see all my races are done without assists... i can't even begin to race with any assists on, especially not drifting, but just racing i run no assists, i get my grip from my tunes, i like knowing tht i have the power under my finger if i need it, instead of knowing that TCS is stealing it from me...
#69
Posted 16 April 2012 - 03:50 PM
Lunchbox.inc, on 16 April 2012 - 03:43 PM, said:
That does make sense... I should probably get onto making a tune setup for circuit racing... then maybe I could actually race
#70
Posted 16 April 2012 - 04:13 PM
Also does anyone want to challenge Fujimi C/D/Old downhill in RWD drift? Best score wins. Any car, any class. I just want scores to aim to beat.
Feel free to add me, GT is: Damologist 2p0
#71
Posted 16 April 2012 - 04:14 PM

06 Toyota Corolla Conquest Wagon
HU: Alpine CDA-9887
Subs: 2 x 12" Crossfire P1
Sub Amp: Crossfire BMF1000D
Factory Fronts and Rears
WCSO Alberts Myaree:
SPL: 2nd Place Street B, 140.9dB
press Alt + F4 for install pics
Fudd, on 02 October 2009 - 11:16 AM, said:
Charger, on 01 March 2010 - 03:16 PM, said:
#72
Posted 16 April 2012 - 04:30 PM
Lunchbox hates my tuning style, but it works for me xD
So my style:
-5 camber on all 4 wheels
5degree toe out on front wheels
0.5degree toe in on back wheels
Car dropped to lowest ride height
brakes put to 45% (5 to the right, so more back orientated i think)
brake power 110%
diff everything to 100% (if rwd)
#73
Posted 16 April 2012 - 05:30 PM
BUT as a general guide for drifting, this is what i do to every car the moment i get it, sometimes they need some fine tuning after this, sometimes they don't but it's a god starting point...
camber -
-3.5 front,
-1.5 rear
negative camber is your friend, but because when you have the power on, the front of the car will twist more than the rear, you want more on the front than you do on the rear... plus remembering that the more camber you run, the less contact patch your tires have with the road in a strait line, but more you have on the outside wheel during cornering, so because you have the rear spinning almost constantly, they're not being overly impacted laterally, so having less camber means that the rears will have a higher contact patch, which give you greater grip, and even tho drifting is about sliding, you need as much grip as you can...
toe -
front +2
rear -0.5
toe out on the front helps to keep the car stable, especially when using a controller having a twitchy car is bad, you just can't hold a nice solid drift, where as with a bit of toe out i find you can make nice sterring adjustments while at full lock and not have the car scoop out on you... that little bit of toe in on the rear really helps the rear end step out on you, as having that much toe out on the front really helps stabilise the car, the downside is that it can be a bit hard to initiate a slide, which is where having a tiny bit of toe in on the rear make a world of difference, this is something you don't want too much of tho, as it'll make it impossibly to go strait...
- Caster
7degree
i love caster, LOVE... it allows you to get greater "lock" with your front wheels, and it also helps you bring back a slide that may have gone that little too far around...
with the rest of the suspension, i generally leave it pretty standard, i'll usually drop the front ride height 1 notch, and the rear all the way down to 1 notch above the lowest point, simply because you still want the car to shift its weight effectively, if you slam the car all round it can have trouble with it's weight, i personally like to be able to throw all the weight to the front as i'm heading into a corner, hence why the front is slightly higher... and diff locker 1005 accel 85% decel...
other than that not alot gets changed in any specific manner, some cars need a touch more this or that, but the above will get you going...
as for what upgrades i do, generally all chassis and driveline upgrades, i prefer not having a rollcage tho, as it can block your view at times, so i just stick with lvl2 chassis strengthening... tires are usually upgraded to street, as more grip is good... but sometimes if you've got enough power sport is good too, but remember you need enough power to turn the tires, so stock is good for low powered cars too... i always favor a roots style supercharger over anything else, but turbo can work well too as long as you haven't got too much lag...other than that i let the engine mods dictate what i want to do with the car, if we're having a low power drift then obviously i won't do too much on the engine apart from cam, if i can i'll always do the cam as it allows the car to rev harder...
for racing, my general tunes are actually quite similar, except the toe settings, generally they're pretty much around stock, along with slightly less camber on the fronts, and the diff backed off a bit and almost ALWAYS running race tires...
may not b e the best write up, but it should get you pointed in the right direction...
#74
Posted 16 April 2012 - 05:56 PM
Also, a general rule of thumb I use for drift tunes is, keep it s class. I have trouble drifting anything not s class.. r3 doesn't seem to have enough grip for me (might try the camber adjustment, see how that goes) whilst s seems to have perfect power to grip
and roll cage is a love or hate thing, it really changes how your car moves and feels. If you like it with, use it, if you like it without, don't
but yes, I generally upgrade from right to left, engine will usually stay the same (unless that can't get the car to s class, lol) do my body, then wheels, then tyres, then drivetain stuff, then suspension, then power. So I leave power right to the last for getting mine to s
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