So gents I'm looking to relocate the oil filters on my patrol as they are in a prick of a possition and every time I do an oil change oil goes every where.
So whose dont an oil filter relocation.
Whats involved?
Where'd you buy parts?
How much did it cost?
0
Oil filter relocation
Started by Captn_Awesome, Feb 02 2012 10:59 AM
10 replies to this topic
#1
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Posted 02 February 2012 - 10:59 AM
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#2
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Posted 02 February 2012 - 09:30 PM
you need the filter adaptor plate lines and block off feed plate..http://www.speco.com...lers.html#reloc hope that helps
..vx wagon with plans
#3
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Posted 02 February 2012 - 09:54 PM
If you are going to all the effort of relocating the filter are you putting an oil cooer/oilstat in at the same time?
Seems there is heaps of info on the Aussie Patrol forums, this looks like a good page for some possible options- http://www.rocketind.../section_08.pdf
Seems there is heaps of info on the Aussie Patrol forums, this looks like a good page for some possible options- http://www.rocketind.../section_08.pdf
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Front Mid- CDT HD2
Front Tweeter- CDT ES010
Amp1- Soundstream Tarantula TR800/5(Runs tweeters mids and sub)
Amp2- Zapco Ref 75.2(Runs front midwoofers)
Nothing good ends in phile.
#4
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Posted 02 February 2012 - 10:44 PM
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#5
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Posted 03 February 2012 - 09:58 AM
TD42t with the full flow and bypass filters. Otherwise I would just use chickens tray.
I'd preffer to relocate so that eventually I can put a full amsoil bypass setup - 50,000km oil changes FTW! Thats 10 times better than I currently have to do oil changes.
At the moment oil goes EVERYWHERE when you change filters - and I mean completely everywhere! I end up degreasing the engine bay every time I do an oil change because there simply is no easy and clean way of getting the filters off.
I'd preffer to relocate so that eventually I can put a full amsoil bypass setup - 50,000km oil changes FTW! Thats 10 times better than I currently have to do oil changes.
At the moment oil goes EVERYWHERE when you change filters - and I mean completely everywhere! I end up degreasing the engine bay every time I do an oil change because there simply is no easy and clean way of getting the filters off.
'01 GU II TD42T
4" Suspension Stuff / Dobinsons Flexi Coils, Amada Xtreme remote reservoir shocks, evolution drop boxes, 80 series bump stops, braided extended brake lines, 18/20mm swaybars, superior swaybar disconnects, 285/75R16 MT MTZs, 3" Scotts Rods Exhaust, Tigerz11 12,000lbs Grande winch w/dyneema rope.
Custom dents and scratches reminding me of the good times ;)
#6
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Posted 03 February 2012 - 01:02 PM
Yeah I have a screwdriver ground to a point to drain filters in weird locations, tap it with a hammer and leave it a while.
A mate of mine was goint to put those amsoil setups on his TD42t, I know he bought it but I'm not sure if he ever used it.
A mate of mine was goint to put those amsoil setups on his TD42t, I know he bought it but I'm not sure if he ever used it.
Volvo 2001 S60T5
HU- Blaupunkt Bremen
Front Midbass- CDT ES06
Front Mid- CDT HD2
Front Tweeter- CDT ES010
Amp1- Soundstream Tarantula TR800/5(Runs tweeters mids and sub)
Amp2- Zapco Ref 75.2(Runs front midwoofers)
Nothing good ends in phile.
HU- Blaupunkt Bremen
Front Midbass- CDT ES06
Front Mid- CDT HD2
Front Tweeter- CDT ES010
Amp1- Soundstream Tarantula TR800/5(Runs tweeters mids and sub)
Amp2- Zapco Ref 75.2(Runs front midwoofers)
Nothing good ends in phile.
#7
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Posted 03 February 2012 - 01:35 PM
Theyre a great idea - change filters instead of oil and just top up the oil when you replace the filters to keep the system level the same.
I've heard of guys at 60,000ks being told that their oil is still good for another 50-60,oooks when they've had oil analysis.
I've heard of guys at 60,000ks being told that their oil is still good for another 50-60,oooks when they've had oil analysis.
'01 GU II TD42T
4" Suspension Stuff / Dobinsons Flexi Coils, Amada Xtreme remote reservoir shocks, evolution drop boxes, 80 series bump stops, braided extended brake lines, 18/20mm swaybars, superior swaybar disconnects, 285/75R16 MT MTZs, 3" Scotts Rods Exhaust, Tigerz11 12,000lbs Grande winch w/dyneema rope.
Custom dents and scratches reminding me of the good times ;)
#8
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Posted 06 February 2012 - 11:34 AM
SERIOUS!!!!!
thats awesome
i was looking at the remote setup for the EX
found a few online
thats awesome
i was looking at the remote setup for the EX
found a few online
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#9
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Posted 06 February 2012 - 11:39 AM
yeah its great (expecially when you factor in what a PITA it is to dispose of used engine oil) BUT its not cheap.
'01 GU II TD42T
4" Suspension Stuff / Dobinsons Flexi Coils, Amada Xtreme remote reservoir shocks, evolution drop boxes, 80 series bump stops, braided extended brake lines, 18/20mm swaybars, superior swaybar disconnects, 285/75R16 MT MTZs, 3" Scotts Rods Exhaust, Tigerz11 12,000lbs Grande winch w/dyneema rope.
Custom dents and scratches reminding me of the good times ;)
#10
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Posted 16 March 2012 - 05:28 PM
Hey Kirk, Id look for a system that has the filter mounted so it can be prefilled and screwed on a bit easier. Plus its cleaner when changing a filter.
As for some oils yeah its not uncommon for it to never leave the crankcases till a major service as the oil sample kits tell you exactly whats happening in the engine,as long as its filtered really well and topped up due to normal running losses.
Use a good filter,Id recommend Fleetguard for any diesel engine aswell as most cars.
As for some oils yeah its not uncommon for it to never leave the crankcases till a major service as the oil sample kits tell you exactly whats happening in the engine,as long as its filtered really well and topped up due to normal running losses.
Use a good filter,Id recommend Fleetguard for any diesel engine aswell as most cars.
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#11
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Posted 21 March 2012 - 10:06 PM
Yeah still researching - mine currently already has a full flow and a bypass filter so I'm trying to get a diffinitive answer on how to plumb up a remote filter setup - seemsevery one with the amsoil setup has the earlier or later TD42's which had two full flow in parrallel.
This is on the back burner for now - the rear main crap it self so I've got to drop the box and transfer do the rear main on the block and the input seal on the box and replace the clutch and machine the fly wheel - but im trying to track down an auto conversion before i bite the bullet. The joys of having a motor and box originally designed as light truck units means they are tough as but they are also heavy as all f**k.
This is on the back burner for now - the rear main crap it self so I've got to drop the box and transfer do the rear main on the block and the input seal on the box and replace the clutch and machine the fly wheel - but im trying to track down an auto conversion before i bite the bullet. The joys of having a motor and box originally designed as light truck units means they are tough as but they are also heavy as all f**k.
'01 GU II TD42T
4" Suspension Stuff / Dobinsons Flexi Coils, Amada Xtreme remote reservoir shocks, evolution drop boxes, 80 series bump stops, braided extended brake lines, 18/20mm swaybars, superior swaybar disconnects, 285/75R16 MT MTZs, 3" Scotts Rods Exhaust, Tigerz11 12,000lbs Grande winch w/dyneema rope.
Custom dents and scratches reminding me of the good times ;)
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