8 replies to this topic

[D34M0N.inc]

Hey guys as some of you know i have had a build going for a while, the gear is listed in my sig, i finally got onto sorting out some form of sound other than sub stage.

My question is what would be the best setup to get the most out of the set of speakers i have purchased.

They are JBL GTO 608c 6.5" Splits. I have 125w rms on tap @ 2ohm (which these speakers are rated at).

I have decent room in the kick area and rather large doors. (Car is a small Suzuki hatch but decent size for what they are)

I want the front stage to be as loud as it can with the gear i have while staying clear. If i like the sound of the speakers enough i will probably run a second set of these to go a bit louder.


I am not super knowledgeable on SQ and seeing this is an SQL build i thought i'd ask the SQ guys for the SQ bit.


So i need to were to stick my tweeters and woofers to get some decent loud sound while still being decent musically.

Any views on the speakers themselves and how best to install them would be great

Thanks

[syd-monster]

My question is what would be the best setup to get the most out of the set of speakers i have purchased.

They are JBL GTO 608c 6.5" Splits. I have 125w rms on tap @ 2ohm (which these speakers are rated at).

I want the front stage to be as loud as it can with the gear i have while staying clear. If i like the sound of the speakers enough i will probably run a second set of these to go a bit louder.

So i need to were to stick my tweeters and woofers to get some decent loud sound while still being decent musically.

Basically as close to being directly on axis to you as possible. So id go mid's in the kicks pretty much right on AXIS (speakers aiming at your head/ears) and the tweeters in the a pillars also right on axis! Then just fade 2 marks to the right and a little time delay on the right mid and you should be set. !
Also just like you know how well subs need to be secured, this also applies to the mid. So the pod you sit it in, secure it as best a you possibly can, screw, bolt, glue it in place and make sure non of the sound on the back of the cone gets to the front and make sure its tightly held in place too. You either want to totally couple the speaker or totally decouple. In a car, totally coupling it (ie holding it very tight) is probably easiest.

Edited by syd-monster, 05 March 2012 - 10:51 PM.

[D34M0N.inc]

Oh yeh awesome thanks, why would i fade it for to the driver side? I thought i would have to fade it for to the left a couple notches so the sound on both speakers comes across more even loudness wise due to the extra distance, and this mechless head unit don't have time alignment unfortunately.

But thats for the tips, A-Pillars and Kickpanel on axis is what i shall aim for.

[syd-monster]

Oh yeh awesome thanks, why would i fade it for to the driver side? I thought i would have to fade it for to the left a couple notches so the sound on both speakers comes across more even loudness wise due to the extra distance, and this mechless head unit don't have time alignment unfortunately.

But thats for the tips, A-Pillars and Kickpanel on axis is what i shall aim for.

sorry i ment fade the right so the left side is a little stronger in volume.

[muzzy66]

I was going to add, but Chris/Syd pretty much just said everything I was going to say!

As per Syd's comments, I'd run the mids as much on axis as possible -further forward is good if you can get enough volume out of the enclosure. If you can get TS specs on the mids it will help even more! Tweeters I. the pillars on axis - keeps less things in you path to block / reduce tweeter output.

Running active would help from the output front because you don't have a passive crossover soaking up all your power, but its not necessary.

If you run stock passives there isn't much you can do to increase tweeter power handling...but there are a couple of things you can do to increase midwoofer power handling:

1. Ensure you have an optimal enclosure to suit the Q of the driver (helps control driver displacement / excursion)
2. Cross the driver over reasonably high - say 100hz to 120hz - to ensure its reaches thermal limits before it reaches excursion limits.

Edited by muzzy66, 06 March 2012 - 11:44 AM.

[D34M0N.inc]

Well i can always can get a second set and run 2 sets of mids off 2 ch and the other 2 ch for tweeters.

I just don't know if each mid and tweet could handle 60w rms each more so the tweeters?

I will try to find some ts specs if possible.

[D34M0N.inc]

BL (T-m) 3.85
DCR (ohms) 2.22
Mms (g) 14.20
Sd (sq cm) 122.7
Cms (μm/N) 257
Vas (l) 5.44
Fs (Hz) 83.3
Qes 1.11
Qms 7.27
Qt 0.97

Here we go

[muzzy66]

Very high Q on those, so you're going to need a lot of volume. I'd that if you run them sealed you'll need at least 15L-20L (just off the top of my head), but they'd be happier still run IB or in a properly treated car door. FS is fairly high, so they probably won't give you a huge amount of midbass - as mentioned previously, I'd probably aim for a crossover of 100hz minimum, probably more like 120hz just to be safe. Xmax specs would help, but at least we have something.

If you were anal about sound quality I'd suggest not to run a second set - IMO it just makes a lot of things worse. Since you're more 'SQL' though, and you just want 'loud and clear', you'll probably find two sets is a good option. It'll give greater overall output potential.

[D34M0N.inc]

Yeh i found that when i modeled them. They seem to be more of a speaker aimed at loudness more than super bassy which i am happy with as i have always found jbl good for going loud and staying clear, i always liked the sound of JBL speakers.

So the higher the Q the bigger the enclosure they would like. I thought i was doing something wrong when i modeled them they asked for .66 cuft each sealed and 3.4cuft ported (Which it recommends going ported on winisd for these)

So yeh i think doors are the go with a couple sets and just put the tweets in the pillar area. Yeh they didn't list the xmax either oddly enough.

Thanks guys