First Install questions, VY SS Commodore
Posted 12 June 2012 - 08:31 PM
I am about to start my first install in a VY Commodore and are after some ideas on how to make it a nice stealth install with minimum weight and still have a useable boot etc.
I am planning on mounting the amps (Alpine PDX-F6 and PDX-M12) up under the rear parcel shelf, but are unsure what I'm going to do with the sub at this stage. I am either looking at getting a moulded fibreglass enclosure off ebay that will fit nicely into the left hand side of the boot without taking up too much space. Or possibly just having a sub box sitting in the boot and anchored somehow so I can easily rip it out quickly? Love to hear some other ideas or see some pictures of other peoples installs like this.
Next I am looking for a nice sounding sub (or possibly two) to fit a smallish sealed enclosure. I want something more focused on sound quality with a nice bottom end. Probably not looking to spend any more than about $600 at this stage. I have some Peerless XLS subs in my home stereo that I really like the sound of and was thinking about getting one for the car also. I'm not sure how they will go in a small sealed box though? What subs would you guys recommend?
Thirdly, I am only planning on dynamatting the front doors and possibly a bit of the boot area. What areas of the boot should I focus on that will have the greatest effect on making things sound nice?
I should probably add that I listen to a wide range of music, but probably more breaks/hip hop with plenty of nice deep bass lately.
Thanks for your ideas.
Posted 12 June 2012 - 08:43 PM
As for mounting the box if you make sure you check where you are drilling first a few well played tek screws will do the job, otherwise if you have some really hand anchor points, rachet straps work will aslong as they are installed correctly. Also a good idea is that you could put some anderson connectors on the wire to the sub so if need be you could unplug it for easy removal.
The idea with Dynamat is that the large, flatter areas need the attention, anything with a curve in it can be sturdy enough not to cause an issue. For the bootlid you will have bracing and then a thin piece of sheet metal, cut some dynamat to fit these thinner areas on metal and apply, then wedge some foam between the bracing and the bootlid to stop the 2 parts vibrating against each other.
Posted 12 June 2012 - 09:48 PM
For quick disconnecting the sub, I was thinking of using a Neutrik Speakon connector.
Thanks for your ideas.
Posted 12 June 2012 - 09:50 PM
You can get the carpet bootlid trim that the Calais has for about $80 which will hide the deadener and prevent luggage from ending up with bits of deadener stuck all over it
For the boot itself i would pay attention to the rear quarter panels (reach right in and put deadener on the inside of the panel towards the front), wheel tubs. The floor doesn't need much at all (just tap around and find the problem spots), and you can get away without doing the spare wheel well because the wheel being bolted to it does a pretty good job of stopping it resonating.
It's also worth pulling out the rear seats and parcel shelf trim and doing the rear firewall and parcel shelf from the inside.
You shouldn't need much more than 20sq ft of deadener to do all that.
Posted 15 June 2012 - 03:01 PM
I have pulled the back seats out and started running the cables down either side of the car and into the boot. I have run the RCA's and two speaker wires together down the passenger side. Is it ok to run the speaker cables with the RCA's?
The speaker and RCA cabling to the amps will be run up on top of the rear parcel shelf and drop down the existing holes to the amps.
I will also be relocating my battery to the boot and are going to run the battery feed, the other two speaker wires and the amp remote turn on cable down the drivers side.
I also made up a bit of ply and carpeted it to mount the amps up under the rear parcel shelf.
I still need to get some dynamat and do the parcel shelf etc while the seats are out.
Some pictures of the mess so far are shown below.
Posted 15 June 2012 - 03:08 PM
Posted 15 June 2012 - 10:43 PM
2) What sort of headunit are you running? What are the speakers you are wanting to run?
Running active (each speaker has its own channel) has many benefits one being the tuning flexibility. If you head unit doesn't have the crossovers needed you will have to set the frequency's on the amps instead.
Posted 16 June 2012 - 08:11 PM
Posted 18 June 2012 - 11:43 AM
The head unit is an alpine ida-x305s. It sounds like to run a set of splits active I will need the pxa-h100 processor configured as a 3 way setup.
The splits I am unsure of yet, probably looking at the morel dotech ovations.
Posted 24 June 2012 - 08:47 AM
For the speakers, I am looking at getting a set of Morel Dotech 6" splits and ditching the crossover.
Seeing as I'm going to not use the crossover, would I be better off buying some midbass drivers and tweeters separately? If so what would people recommend?
Note, the speakers will be located in the stock locations and I am after a sound quality biased system with some decent midbass that can still play fairly loud.
I want the tweeters to sound nice and not too harsh on the ears at loud levels, if that makes sense?
Posted 24 June 2012 - 12:38 PM
How would something like this compare to the morel dotech ovation midbass and tweeters?
Posted 06 July 2012 - 06:41 PM
The sub shown is an old one I have had in the cupboard for years. This will be used at first until I order a Peerless XXLS and make up a new box etc.
Next thing will be to finish of the wiring for my battery relocation, some dynamatting and start putting the back half of the car back together.
The front stage is going to be scanspeak mids / tweeters in the factory locations and running active I have decided.
Posted 07 July 2012 - 08:45 PM
Posted 07 July 2012 - 11:54 PM
Edited by Magnum9, 07 July 2012 - 11:57 PM.