11 replies to this topic

[alexmeyer69]

hey im kinda a noob to this sound system stuff and i have been looking around at some stuff at the moment im thinking of getting
CDA 9847
SPR-17LS
MRP-m350
SWR 1242D
ive been told that i can get this for $1650 dully installed is this good?????
i was told that the CDA 9847 would power the speakers and used the MRPM350 for the sub will this be n e good???
need all the help i can get thanx

Edited by alexmeyer69, 05 November 2005 - 11:24 PM.

[vpcommodore]

i carnt be bothered working out the value of this but from a glance and a lil experience i would say u r getting majourly ripped off man

[RAXTSX]

guess i c it differently to vpcommo, IMO $1650 sounds like a decent price

with those SPR-17LS, are u gettin 2 pairs or just 1?? if 2 then i say its a good deal, if just 1 then $1650 sounds fair

also at the price of the SPR-17LS, there are many other better component choices. theres no need to brand-match, differents brands will still sound good with other brands

and yes the 9847 can power those speakers... just you wont be gettin the most potential out of them (like any speaker run off the h.u). In the future you can just buy a 2/4 chan amp to get the most out of wateva speakers you end up getting.

[Funk Docta]

Well those components you listed add up to $1,696. If you can get it all installed for $1,650 I don't think thats too bad. Im assuming that you are only getting speakers for the front?

[Bodyjar]

That pack $1650 installed is quite a good price! Trust me... I sell alpine and thats cheaper than what I would do it for

[shiny_car]

CDA 9847 $499
SPR-17LS $399
MRP-m350 $399
SWR 1242D $399 [edited]

[edited]

i'd go as far as to suggest it's too cheap to be guaranteed a really high quality installation. so ensure you're getting quality work. all the wiring, cabling, terminals, fuse/holder would usually come in around $60~100 if you bought it separately. and a custom made subbox around $100~150; a prefab may be a bit cheaper, but could compromise on quality/design.

the components are very, very good. the weak link, as suggested already, are the speakers. ensure you like the sound of the type-Rs, but compare with other quality brands the store offers.

i would prefer stuff like:
*boston acoustics S60
*hertz HSK165
*focal 165V1
*morel pulse 6
*mb quart DSE-216

being the most important component of all, make sure they're good and will keep you happy for years.

the sub/amp combo is excellent. hard to beat at their pricepoint. the subbox is critical too - as important as the sub itself. the type-S sub works really well in a 1.2cuft 'sealed' box; make sure this is what you're getting.

the following are what i would 'prefer' to have done with any basic install:
*adaptor wiring harness for HU for plug-and-play (eg: aerpro brand)
*mdf spacer rings for door speakers
*proper car audio fuse/holder: 5AG or maxiblade
*custom built subbox to suit sub and car, trimmed in matching colour carpet
*quality tuning of amp

other stuff worth considering as extras:
*sound deadener on doors
*higher (build) quality fuseholder, cabling, RCAs

maybe double-check what you're getting. copy this list if need-be.

Edited by shiny_car, 06 November 2005 - 09:19 PM.

[Luke352]

Shiny SWR1242D retails for $399 not $279. so that brings it up to $1696

[shiny_car]

oh bugger, my bad. i read it wrong didn't i: thought it was a type-S sub, not type-R.

thanks for correcting me.

[adam87]

are you after spl or sq or just a loud street cruiser? i would go as far as saying that that amp with a type s sub would be louder due to the type s's efficiency. just a suggestion if your after that.

[The DMac]

the sub is going to be under powered isn't it? The type r subs are 500wrms and its a 4ohm + 4ohm sub. That amp is 350wrms at 2 ohm and 200wrms at 4ohm. My knowledge is limited but wont it clip pretty early on.

[rhysy_boi]

wit hthe gains set right DMac it shouldn't clip at all. jsut means the sub won't be getting all the power it can potentially withstand.

Rhyso

[shiny_car]

the sub is going to be under powered isn't it? The type r subs are 500wrms and its a 4ohm + 4ohm sub. That amp is 350wrms at 2 ohm and 200wrms at 4ohm. My knowledge is limited but wont it clip pretty early on.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

for really, really loud subbass, 350WRMS is ample, no worries. for normal listening, you'll probably be using 50~200WRMS. and even if you had 500WRMS available, that's probably <2dB difference in volume, hardly anything.

the amp will clip if you ask it to produce more power than it's capable of. but as explained above, set the gain correctly and you'll avoid this. and again, i don't expect you'll be wanting for more power. if you do, then it's not only the amp, but the sub isn't good enough for you (in which case, double the budget and you'll get significantly better, but probably not an option).