Amps
#1
Posted 21 April 2006 - 10:05 AM
Looks like my old faithful Jaycar amp has a dirty channel, so rather than repairing it (again) i think i want to replace it. What i am after is opinions on what amps i should be looking at to run my dynaudio's (240gt's). This is obviously for SQ, but i want to make sure that whatever amp i end up getting has similar power output to the jaycar (2X150) so i dont loose any volume. I am looking at a budget of around $500, which could blow out a further $200 or more.
#2
Posted 21 April 2006 - 11:04 AM
Audio System F2-300
http://service.winnet.it/Gttrading4/easysi...udio_system.asp
Crossfire VR302
http://www.crossfirecaraudio.com
ARC Audio 2100XXK
http://www.arcaudio.com
Audison SRx2S
http://www.audison.com
Boston GT22
http://www.bostonacoustics.com
Zapco Reference 350.2
http://www.zapco.com
Vibe BlackboxII
http://www.vibeaudio.co.uk
That is a start. Other people will add to that list. Remember too that power is not the be all and end all of amplifier performance. There are other stats to look out for before power. Things like damping factor, slew rate, S/N ratio, separation and THD just name a few.
Edited by Fhrx, 21 April 2006 - 11:05 AM.
#3
Posted 21 April 2006 - 11:16 AM
FHRX Studio's
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#4
Posted 21 April 2006 - 12:26 PM
I can suggest some ideas for specifications to look for.
Slew Rate at least 25 to 50 uV + Slew rate roughly effects how fast the amp can change voltages, higher number means more precise midrange and high frequencys, Low Slew rates can often make tweeters sound Harsh or bright.
Damping Factor at least 200-500 + This effects how much control and precision there is over your midbass, This is usualy more effective for subwoofers, but it can help how strong and fast your Midbass will appear.
S/N Ratio at least 90 DB, preferably over 100db + This refers to how loud the amp reproduces clear signal from noise, a higher number will mean cleaner overall sound.
Separation at least 80-95db + This will effect how good your imaging can be, and how well left and right music signals are separated from each speaker.
THD refers to the amount of distortion at the power rating.
IE: if One amp has 150W RMS @ 10% Total Harmonic Distortion
then the next amp has 150W RMS @ 0.02% THD..
then the amp rated at 10% THD probably really only has maybe 100 or 120W RMS @ 0.02% THD.
and the 0.02% THD amp probably really has more like 200W + at 10% THD.
Thats just a ROUGH EXAMPLE to give you a idea, it is NOT ACCURATE!! every amp is different.
so you idiots who don't read stuff properly can keep your silly remarks, ideas and opinons to yourself.
anyway really choose how much power you need, and look for the lowest Measured Distortion,
and you'll actually get more power for your money. I would be tempted to go for a amp rated at 100W RMS @ 0.02% THD before a amp rated at 125W RMS @ 1% THD.
Also Look closely at what Voltage they are tested. The most realistic voltage is 13.8V, which is about what you get with the car running with 1 quality battery under full audio system Load. 14.4V is unrealistic, unless you have a Kickass Alternator, and 2 batterys. 12V is also good, if the rated power is at 12V, often you'll get 5-25% more power with the motor running as the voltage increases.
People are gonna jump around telling you, that you can't tell the difference between amps just listening,
many people can tell the difference, but the only real way to tell is to get one and install it and use it for a good 2-3 weeks, then get another amp and swap and run it for another 2-3 weeks.. it can take time to listen to all your favorite songs and pick up on the little things that sound different. usually back to back you miss these differences because you can't instantly just take information like that from your Pre and especially Sub Concious. I've always noticed massive differences between amps I've used, the worst amps I have had where crossfire amps surprisingly, plenty of power but they just sound poor and lacked control. Especially when you compare them to the equivalent soundstream or similar.
Never buy a amp and expect huge wonderous differences immediatly. It takes time to fully appreciate the differences, it's worth it in the long run to have a nicer amp especially behind nice speakers. The search for perfection.. never ends.
Regards
Juls
Edited by Juls, 21 April 2006 - 02:29 PM.
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#5
Posted 21 April 2006 - 03:57 PM
#6
Posted 21 April 2006 - 04:10 PM
#7
Posted 21 April 2006 - 04:27 PM
If that doesnt suit you, drop your battery terminal nuts down your engine bay.
Edited by HooDs, 21 April 2006 - 04:27 PM.
///M Power
#8
Posted 21 April 2006 - 05:22 PM
either way, a high quality 2 channel would be good.. i remember i had my old 240GT's running off an audison LRx 2.500.. 200wrms a side and loved every bit of it..

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#9
Posted 21 April 2006 - 06:24 PM
Alpine Mrvf345, Boston GT22-40, Rockford p4004, Eclipse ea4000, Clarion APA4320?(last years top of range made in usa ((actually its an older ARC with modified heat sink)) 4 x 80Wrms really an awesome amp no one talks of)
Many to choose from
#10
Posted 21 April 2006 - 06:34 PM
SomeFReaK, on Apr 21 2006, 10:05 AM, said:
with respect to this, ask yourself 2 questions:
1. did i clip the jaycar amp, meaning, did i fully utilise all 150WRMS it can offer? if not, then you don't need 150WRMS
2. how much volume difference is there between 150WRMS and 75WRMS? around 3dB. i can easily demo this to you cos my HU's volume control is calibrated in dB (rather than just numbers), and 3dB is NOT MUCH
as such, i would strongly suggest 'quality over quantity' if you have the choice and limited budget.
sure, a higher powered amp has more 'headroom'. however, i would argue that headroom is factored into 'peak power output', and a high quality amp will have a truly high peak power output to cope with the dynamics.
Quote
how about the boston acoustics GT20 RRP$499?
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#11
Posted 21 April 2006 - 06:40 PM
Edited by brady123, 21 April 2006 - 06:41 PM.
#12
Posted 21 April 2006 - 06:51 PM
Quote
Sounds like fun, might give it a try
shiny_car, on Apr 21 2006, 06:34 PM, said:
1. did i clip the jaycar amp, meaning, did i fully utilise all 150WRMS it can offer? if not, then you don't need 150WRMS
2. how much volume difference is there between 150WRMS and 75WRMS? around 3dB. i can easily demo this to you cos my HU's volume control is calibrated in dB (rather than just numbers), and 3dB is NOT MUCH
Very true, i wasn't clipping the jaycar at all (i set the gains with a CRO) so i probably dont need the extra power. Food for thought indeed!
#13
Posted 21 April 2006 - 06:52 PM
#14
Posted 21 April 2006 - 07:00 PM
#15
Posted 21 April 2006 - 07:01 PM
brady123, on Apr 21 2006, 06:40 PM, said:
quite true. i chose this baby amp to demostrate my point. too extreme maybe.
however, i would expect the performance to 'sound' more than just 2x45WRMS. but i'd have to have someone like MADTRAV (who sells/installs boston) to comment on that.
Alfa Romeo 75 (project car): Car Gallery I II III IV
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Alfa Romeo GT (weekender): Car Gallery I II III | Stereo Stage I II III IV V VI VII
/////ALPINE F1 . morel . DYNAUDIO . \\\IMAGE DYNAMICS/// . OPTIMA . Stinger . Dynamat
MEASQ Runner-Up National Finals 2009 / 2010 / 2011
Alfa Romeo 155 (daily driver): Car Gallery I II III IV V VI | Stereo Stage Ia Ib II III
/////ALPINE F1 . sinfoni . morel . OPTIMA . Stinger . Dynamat
Alfa Romeo 156 (2001-2006): Stereo Stage I II III IV V
CAASQ Pro Show Class - Victorian & National Champion 2005
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