Tutorial - How to build a Wicked One
#347
Posted 28 November 2011 - 01:43 PM
#348
Posted 10 December 2011 - 11:24 AM
i have an oz audio 300l sub 12 inch which winisd says can work in a sealed box, optimum 445 litres but 50-60 litres seems a working compromise. What would the difference be from a single design wicked one compared to a sealed box of 60 litres?
Thanks
#349
Posted 10 December 2011 - 11:56 AM
The design of he wicked one lends itself to a broad range of speakers for two main reasons:
1. because the sealed section volume makes very little difference to the frequency response in a +/- 20% range of volumes.
2. the semi-horn tapered port has a very wide bandwidth, which is controlled by the small section throat.
It is possible to "tune" a wicked one to suit the specific drivers used, but the results are only a couple of dB either way. For serious SPL use, there are a number of areas to create a slight peak in the response at a given frequency.
The difference compared to a sealed box is approx 1/3 octave lower extension, and about +5 or 6dB gain in the pass band.
http://www.aes.org
MEASQ 2008 National Judges' Choice
MEASQ 2009 Victorian Runner Up - Expert Class, National Champion - Expert Class
dB Drag 2008 Street A: 147.2dB @ 46Hz
VK3TUG - Life's too short to QRP
~Spyne~, on 15 July 2009 - 07:33 PM, said:
TEAM Floor-Pods
#350
Posted 20 December 2011 - 10:39 AM
No licence.... no fun... :( Back in action Novemeber 2012
#351
Posted 20 December 2011 - 07:27 PM
Wanky uninstalled gear that I need to install in my 200sx this year:
Source: Alpine 9887
Front: 2 x SB Acoustics SB17 per door
Front Amplifier: Digital Designs S4a
Subs: 2 x Hybrid Digital Designs/PSi 99F series
Sub Amp: Digital Designs M2a
#352
Posted 24 December 2011 - 01:17 PM
i ask as i thought about making one for the HT with sum 15s (only 1000w) and also one for a wagon or 4x4 for a no wall build of sorts any ideas
Ren
#353
Posted 24 December 2011 - 01:23 PM
also the internal bracing in the sealed section would it be better t use a round brace like a thick wooden dowel or even a steel threeded rod instead of getting refraction of the staight MDF
the reason for all the questions is i really want to make one if it has to be 10s so be it but id like to do 12s and 15s also but i need to know a bit more info than just a picture like widths of the gaps and port areas etc etc or is alot of it just right angles using the bord devided into 4 squares then onto trinagles etc
the more info i can get the better hell i may even put an special ozzy edition ebook out of it free to mea members
(but dont worry i wont type it ill have the secretary do it as she can spll and type and use grammer)
Ren
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users















