Active setups
#1
Posted 31 December 2006 - 11:31 AM
was just wondering those that run active setups how have you got your amps configured?
ie 2way do you have an amp per speaker? or an amp a side? or an amp for the mids and amp for tweeters?
which is the most common/preferred way to arrange the amps..
any pros/cons to each way?
Cheers
#2
Posted 31 December 2006 - 11:50 AM
the ultimate setup would be one monobloc fullrange amp per driver. so a 2-way set of splits would have 4 monoblocs!
but, cos of cost and space, most people either run 2x 2-channel amps or a single 4-channel amp.
to a degree, the availability of amps is a factor too. some series of amps are not available as 2-channel models (eg: alpine V12), and their monoblocs are not fullrange amps.
in my previous setup, i used a separate 2-channel amp to run the 7" midwoofers in the doors. then i had a 6-channel onhand to run the tweeters and midrange drivers; the other 2 channels ran the rear speakers.
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#3
Posted 31 December 2006 - 11:50 AM
i run 6.5" + 4" + 1" tweeter, and (in 'stage 4' of my install) simply ran a 4ch to the 6.5"s (on ch 1 and 2) and 4" (on ch 3 and 4) and another 4ch to the tweeters (on ch 1 and 2) (and ch 3 and 4 ran the rear fill)...
have a look thru my install
http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=77316
- mad89
edit: if i was going with a 2 way active setup, id prolly opt for a nice beefy 4ch (for ease of installation etc), OR if ur willing to sacrafice the room etc, a beefy 2ch for the mids, and a slightly smaller 2ch for the tweeters? (or an beefy assymmetrical 4ch maybe? old DD C4, or current DD S4 springs to mind)...
Edited by mad89, 31 December 2006 - 11:57 AM.
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#4
Posted 31 December 2006 - 11:52 AM
Having an amp for left and amp for right offers better seperation between l/r.
Having an amp per driver would be ideal but most expensive.
#5
Posted 31 December 2006 - 11:54 AM
if you have the money, the better way is 2x 2ch amps, one for left, one for right - this will give best left/right separation.
others prefer to run beefy 2ch amps for the woofers, while using a smaller 2ch for the tweets.
basically there are many different ways to do it, all with their own pros and cons
...and lets all reply at the same time
lol. gee we're a friendly, helpful bunch

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#6
Posted 31 December 2006 - 12:05 PM
each channel has it's own independent gain.
when i do go 3 ways, hopefuly soon i will have a seperate amp for the midbass, a 2 channel very similer to the 4 channel
Selling Fudd an amp (for a fraction of the real price) that had been returned by Autobarn Geelong which had been incorrectly used by AB Geelong and turned out to be faulty when Fudd started using it.
Whilst he was given a new amp after it could not be fixed, he never acknowledged any of the assistance given and bitches to this day about it.
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#7
Posted 31 December 2006 - 01:41 PM
maybe if i include the gear i'll be running...
Speakers :
Soundstream Reference series splits RF-60C 6.5"mid and 1" silk dome tweeter rated at 180wrms
pair of Peerless 6.5" mids
http://www.advanceae.com.au/catalog/produc...roducts_id=2462
pair of Vifa 6.5" mids ~75wrms (8ohm)
http://www.advanceae.com.au/catalog/produc...roducts_id=2484
was planning to trial a few different setups running the different mids with the tweeters, and then a pair of the mids will become rear fill and maybe run 2 pairs of mids up front (any point running 2 pairs of 6.5" mids or not worth the hassle?)
Amps i have:
2x Orion 3002 (75wrms x 2 @ 4ohm) <--unlikely i will use these amps for anything but rear fill
Earthquake TNT 1000/2 (200wrms x 2 @ 4ohm)
Alpine V12 MRV-T1005 (100wrms x 2 @ 4ohm)
also eyeing off at 2 other amps:
alphasonik PMA2150 (150wrms x 2 @ 4ohm)
Brax X2400 (100wrms x 4 @ 4ohm)
and also open to any other clean power amps...
#8
Posted 31 December 2006 - 02:21 PM
I've always been a fan of matching amps, and the Orions are quite nice.
You're going to be eying off that Brax for a long time, unless you have a wallet full of gold
#9
Posted 31 December 2006 - 02:44 PM
Selling Fudd an amp (for a fraction of the real price) that had been returned by Autobarn Geelong which had been incorrectly used by AB Geelong and turned out to be faulty when Fudd started using it.
Whilst he was given a new amp after it could not be fixed, he never acknowledged any of the assistance given and bitches to this day about it.
www.fuddbutter.com
http://gallery.fuddbutter.com/zen/
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#10
Posted 31 December 2006 - 03:28 PM
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#11
Posted 01 January 2007 - 09:35 PM
Quote
I've always been a fan of matching amps, and the Orions are quite nice.
I was under the impression that the orions wouldnt be as clean as the other two amps, but i just checked the specs and looks decent on paper.
so will have to test them all in different setups to see which one i like best.
also out of the 2 remaining amps 1 would be used for rear fill. and either sell the last amp or maybe possible change to 3 way active up front.
i already have a dedicated sub amp as well...
Quote
wallet full of gold? nope... but ive got more than enough to get this amp if i really wanted/needed it... It is a very nice amp with well reputed SQ qualities but i think i will go with what i have for the moment. and see how it goes..
#12
Posted 01 January 2007 - 10:13 PM
TRD1JeeZy, on Jan 1 2007, 10:35 PM, said:
TRD1JeeZy, on Dec 31 2006, 02:41 PM, said:
2x Orion 3002 (75wrms x 2 @ 4ohm) <--unlikely i will use these amps for anything but rear fill
Earthquake TNT 1000/2 (200wrms x 2 @ 4ohm)
Alpine V12 MRV-T1005 (100wrms x 2 @ 4ohm)
hmm. if it were me, and u were opting for "2 way active + sub", id go:
Option 1: (For sake of having similar sounding amps for front stage)
Orion 3002 = 6.5"
Orion 3002 = 1" Tweeters
Alpine MRV-T1005 = Rear Fill
EarthQuake TNT1000/2 = Bridged Sub
Option 2: (For sake of more power up front)
Alpine MRV-T1005 = 6.5"
Orion 3002 = 1" Tweeters
Orion 3002 = Rear Fill
EarthQuake TNT1000/2 = Bridged Sub
now, if u decide to go for "3 way active + sub", id go:
Option 1:
Alpine MRV-T1005 = 6.5" Mid-bass
Orion 3002 = Midrange
Orion 3002 = Tweeters
EarthQuake TNT1000/2 = Bridged Sub
(Rear Fill off the HU, or none at all)
thats my $0.02
- mad89
- /////ALPINE - rainbow - TOTAL RECOIL - BostonAcoustics - Stinger - Aerpro - Dynamat -
- Presented By -
- /////ALPINE - CRESCENDO - TRU Technology - DYNAUDIO - Stinger - Dynamat -
- Presented By -
:Trusted Buyers/Sellers:
- poisoner - trism - Fhrx - Gozza - nee - Leviathan - mac_man_luke - edy - Marc - advance - Tiger - Vazard -
- Big_Valven - Mafish - raff - Westy87 - cc1206 - hilas07 - Nic - sqking - SMI7HY - Elmo - keeddlez - MRVJ -
- sunday_diver - Daedalus - FL0SSIN - broadz - Gonadman2 - MR_XR6 - TEGBOY - nemesis - sliksilvia - sanzy -
- SStealth - Deftone2k - Tezza_VESSV - PURESX - SINTX3 - Doorslammer - orsm-vs - Syd_pulsin -
#13
Posted 01 January 2007 - 11:03 PM
TRD1JeeZy, on Jan 1 2007, 08:35 PM, said:
The Orions really are nice amps. Ive heard a few, and for their price bracket, are quite good. They dont have the brick$hithouse reliability they used to, but most amps these days dont. Nice, clean and seem underpowered. You already have them, so Id be going with them.
Try and be careful not to overcomplicate things. It becomes a very expensive lesson on ignorance. I know, Ive been there. You have some nice amps already, try and use them for your purposes first. If you find yourself still wanting, then try and upgrade. You never know, simplicity may be that which you have been searching for all this time

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#14
Posted 02 January 2007 - 10:01 AM
Quote
Option 1: (For sake of having similar sounding amps for front stage)
Orion 3002 = 6.5"
Orion 3002 = 1" Tweeters
Alpine MRV-T1005 = Rear Fill
EarthQuake TNT1000/2 = Bridged Sub
Option 2: (For sake of more power up front)
Alpine MRV-T1005 = 6.5"
Orion 3002 = 1" Tweeters
Orion 3002 = Rear Fill
EarthQuake TNT1000/2 = Bridged Sub
now, if u decide to go for "3 way active + sub", id go:
Option 1:
Alpine MRV-T1005 = 6.5" Mid-bass
Orion 3002 = Midrange
Orion 3002 = Tweeters
EarthQuake TNT1000/2 = Bridged Sub
(Rear Fill off the HU, or none at all)
thats my $0.02
- mad89
Quote
Quote
too true mate. thats why ive gone against my impulsivness
is it really worth nearly 10K?? i knew it would be pricey but didnt think it would be *that* much... some dude on this forums is selling one at what seems a very decent price (and hes in perth too
#15
Posted 02 January 2007 - 01:04 PM
I did notice a considerable difference in separation when I made the switch.
only did it recently though, still waiting on a second 4ch to complete the deal!
Juls
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