39 replies to this topic

[Jumping Jeza]

I Solder, Crimp and Tape for Extra Hold But If a Quick install i have Just twisted and taped and not once has one comes undone

[ben1990]

hey guys been a while since i updated this, yeah now all i do is solder and tape (or heatshrink when i feel like), and when i crimp lugs on for earth wires I always use a ratcher crimper.

When I wrote this article I was still mucking around I guess, hence the scotchlok, dont worry you learn from your mistakes.

Also when people come to me and they have a wiring kit, thats when the butane soldering iron comes out and the tip comes off to solder the lugs onto the cable using the torch, makes easy work of it and better than trying to crimp those lugs.

Oh and I dont know how many installs ive had to fix lately with the earth wire connected to the illumination wire......they just throw the multimeter between the wire and earth and once they have continuity they automatically think its an earth.
Old swifts are the worst for this, cos the constant, accessories and illumination are all in a 3 pin plug and they automatically think constant, accessories and earth, and when they put the multimeter on it and they get continuity thru the globes to earth they think its earth, apart from the fact its a red/yellow wire.

but yeah learnt heaps more since i wrote that tutorial and actually have an auto elec apprenticeship now

[Captn_Awesome]

Yeah I used those when I redid my phone lines - they work a treat. I used them on my second (not connected line) to connect the 2 pair to the cat5e in the DSL central filter

[TERRA Operative]

THIS is how it's done. (My brothers Toyota Sera, my Levin is the same).





Adapter harness from the stock plug (Aerpro) grouped appropriately to locking automotive style plugs (crimped THEN soldered) to the Stereo harness (also crimped then soldered).

That way when the deck gets replaced, it a simple matter of connecting half a new plug to the new stereo harness and plugging it straight in. And NO modification of the stock wiring.


No fuss, no muss, no worries.

Edited by TERRA Operative, 03 July 2009 - 05:40 PM.

[scuzzy]

Seen a few Sera's without the plugs, gladly mine was fine aswell. However looking at my loom theres now all kinds of crazy wiring and plugs all over the place, I'm glad I don't have the SLSS amp in the way or that would be even more painful.

[TERRA Operative]

We were lucky that the previous installer used really small spade lugs to plug into the stock harness.
I did find the head deck must have been swapped though, as the wires from the spade lugs were twisted and taped to the current decks harness.......

All fixed now though.

[Virago]

Hi,
I'm new here and have been reading this thread with interest. I'm a retired aircraft electronics installer ... yes, it's a bit different but I thought I should comment on connection methods which, while not as critical (or life dependant) in a road vehicle, still need to be reliable.

Crimp connectors: we used these by the thousands. AMP is the best brand ... expensive but well designed ... not like those cheap supermarket ones (which CASA wouldn't let us use anyway). We always used the correct ratchet type tool ... never the cheap K-Mart pliers type tool. The $49.00 ratchet tool is readily available and does a good job. A well made crimp joint is almost as reliable as the original wire. Always do a pull test on each completed joint ... sometimes the wire slips out a bit just before crimping, particularly in an area of difficult access.

Solder joints: We rarely used these for inline joints ... soldering can make the wire brittle at the joint. If we did have to solder, we always used heatshrink over the joint.

Molex connectors: These are common in light aircraft. Molex make some excellent stuff. Always use Molex tools to crimp the pins. Never solder Molex pins as the heat makes the metal lose it's temper and can result in spread socket pins.

Pritchy's joiners: If a soldered joint is necessary, the joiners Pritchy describes are the best way to go ... they're not cheap but they are probably better than crimps. They provide a completely sealed, soldered and physically secure joint.

My biggest concern with working on vehicle electronics is trim removal and access which in modern cars is far worse than the most complicated aircraft. Yes, working on a jet airliner's instrument panel is far easier than my Nissan Pathfinder!

Wire stripping: I liked to use a knife and had this down to a fine art ... but always taught my apprentices to use wire strippers. Stripping with a knife (unless you are real careful) can nick the inner wires which can result in a break later down the track.

Cable ties: Again, I wouldn't mind a buck for every one of these I've used. Quality varies enormously, from useless to excellent. The ones with the metal lock tab are the best ... we only used Thomas and Betts brand. When you need to remove a cable tie from a loom, always align your cutters so you don't accidently cut a wire ... I've had this happen in the most innaccessible position and it can take hours to repair what took one second to do!

[ben1990]

once again, been ages since i commented on my original post, these days i just either use red crimp bullets if i dont have access to a soldering iron or usually just splice into the harness without cutting off the factory plug

got over being so pedantic about wiring, im still neat as f*** but ive limited my methods to two or three, makes things less complicated when it doesnt need to be.

in my 3rd year now as an apprentice and im fairly meticulous about how i do my work. But stick to the tried and tested theory of KISS...Keep It Simple Stupid.

[AlbredaO]

It's really appreciable and Generic. Great stuff!!