The Latest from the Australian Mobile Electronics Industry Since 1999 60,000+ Readers Per Month! Get the MEA iPhone App

Jump to content


Bi-amping - Worth it or a waste?


12 replies to this topic

#1 Stone

    3kW Power House

  • Members
  • 7,048 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mornington Peninsula
  • State:VIC

Posted 26 April 2007 - 08:29 PM

Hey,

I need help!

I've decided my fronts sound good enough and I don't need to install my rears, so I have spare Boston Pro60's and an Audison LRx2.500 (200Wrms x 2 @ 13.8v)... I'm currently running my Z6's from another LRx2.500 but i'm thinking about using both amps for the Z6's. With the one amp via the passive xover both the woofer and tweeter have 180Wrms available... If I bi-amped them each component would still only have 180Wrms. So I don't see a huge benefit. I could bridge each amp to each side to give 660Wrms per side but then the THD would come up. Would you hear it?

I really have no idea! Please help :)

Oh, and i'd really like to stick with the passives as i'm sure they'll sound better than any tuning I could do anyway but my head unit is capable of doing 3-way setup.

[edit] Oh, and another option is to sell the two Audisons and buy a Boston GT-28.

#2 Winno

    Eccentric but effective

  • Members
  • 1,756 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Brisbane
  • State:QLD

Posted 26 April 2007 - 09:29 PM

That's a tough one there.

I reckon it'll work very well but you'd simply have to hook it up and see.
One amp for tops and the other for mids.
I do have experience with bi-amping some pretty esoteric home audio gear with nice results. I used to be paid to play with (and sell) very, very nice gear a few years ago.

I guess the offshoot from that is you could try running active then just to see what that is like as well once it's all in...

Edited by Winno, 26 April 2007 - 09:31 PM.

The car:
Honda RB3 Odyssey Lux - 24 bitness and 5ch bipolar Class A/B activeness
Source/processor:
Clarion HX-D2, Cleaved iP4
Amplification:Phoenix Gold Titanium 500.4 & 600.2, Alpine PDX4.150
Drivers:Audible Physics XR3M super wide band point source mid/tweeters, Seas Prestige L16RNSL midbasses, Infinity Perfect 10VQ sub, Fountek FR88EX wide band rears
Cables:Monster Cable XLN Pro, Monster Cable XLN S-16

The home:
Home two channel - Class A valve and ribbon goodness

Source:
Sony XA5ES (Burson discrete op amps x 6)
Amplification: Bewitch KT88 class A valve integrated
Speakers:Aurum Cantus Leisure II ribbon monitors (EXO modded, hand made ribbons) & high massed Epos stands
Cables: Kimber Kable PBJ, 4TC, 8TC

#3 Pulse-R

    Digital is only on or off

  • Verified Trader
  • 11,176 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Melbourne, VIC
  • Interests:Audio, Computers, Mobile Electronics
  • State:VIC

Posted 26 April 2007 - 09:37 PM

in a good amp, distortion only increases at rated power. I believe the Audisons are good amps.

turn it down = lower distortion.

as for bi-amping, only a real bonus if you want to use TA, or better quality amp for tweeters.
http://www.melbourneaudioclub.org.au
http://www.aes.org
MEASQ 2008 National Judges' Choice
MEASQ 2009 Victorian Runner Up - Expert Class, National Champion - Expert Class
dB Drag 2008 Street A: 147.2dB @ 46Hz
VK3TUG - Life's too short to QRP

~Spyne~, on 15 July 2009 - 07:33 PM, said:

gear = wank unless it's installed
Note to self: Install more gear.
TEAM Floor-Pods

#4 Stooge007

    2009 - Welcome Wayne Bennett

  • Members
  • 6,301 posts
  • State:NSW

Posted 27 April 2007 - 10:03 AM

i'd also try it and see

want to sell the pro's? :P

- Stooge007 out
DISCLAIMER: by reading the above post you have absolved me of any responsibility whatsoever if what I have recommended happens to break any of your stuff, or burns your car to the ground!!!

Please visit the TUTORIALS and FAQs section, or try SEARCHING before posting a new topic

Also check out the Most Popular & Useful Tutorials :)


--------------------

shiny_car said:

i'm not here to disagree with stooge - his advice is always tops


#5 shiny_car

    Posts too much

  • Admin
  • 40,182 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Victoria
  • State:VIC

Posted 27 April 2007 - 11:05 AM

yeah, time correction, level-matching, and some improvement in dynamics/attack-decay are what's potentially on offer.

and i think you'll get a good improvement, so i'd do it. :D

i presume the boston passive xovers cater for bi-amping? would be nice to retain the passives.

:)

Alfa Romeo 75 (project car): Car Gallery I II III IV
(pending) /////ALPINE . Audible Physics . AudioTechnology . mosconi . morel

Alfa Romeo GT (weekender): Car Gallery I II III | Stereo Stage I II III IV V VI VII
/////ALPINE F1 . morel . DYNAUDIO . \\\IMAGE DYNAMICS/// . OPTIMA . Stinger . Dynamat
MEASQ Runner-Up National Finals 2009 / 2010 / 2011

Alfa Romeo 155 (daily driver): Car Gallery I II III IV V VI | Stereo Stage Ia Ib II III
/////ALPINE F1 . sinfoni . morel . OPTIMA . Stinger . Dynamat

Alfa Romeo 156 (2001-2006): Stereo Stage I II III IV V
CAASQ Pro Show Class - Victorian & National Champion 2005


#6 StormSQ

    25 - 250w RMS

  • Members
  • 60 posts
  • State:WA

Posted 27 April 2007 - 11:25 AM

I'm running my setup as bi-amp (in a way)..using a 4 chan amp with 2 chans for the tweeters and 2 chans for the mid bass.

I haven't messed with the levels but using the passives that come with the speakers is a good idea I think. They don't spend all those $ on R&D for nothing!

At the end of the day its given the system far more clarity and can go the distance on the volume.
2005 VZ Storm Ute
Blaupunkt Factory Deck
Hertz Mille MLK165 6.5" Splits
Rockford Fosgate X4.C
AudioControl LC6
Focal Utopia 21WX Sub
Alpine MRD-M605


#7 mad89

    perfection takes time

  • Moderators
  • 7,673 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Wollongong
  • Interests:Car Audio...?
  • State:NSW

Posted 27 April 2007 - 11:38 AM

i vote for biamping with the boston crossovers :D

i was going to say to run a 2.500 per side, as in one for left one for right, but i dont think they have independant gains for each channel do they?

if not, then go one 2.500 for mids, and one for tweets. as already mentioned this gives the most control (within a passive setup) as u can TA seperately, and have independant gains between mid and tweet.

let us know how it goes! :good:

:)

- /////ALPINE - rainbow - TOTAL RECOIL - BostonAcoustics - Stinger - Aerpro - Dynamat -

- Presented By -

- 1994 Holden Nova -
- CAASQ/MEASQ Competitor 2006-2009 - 17 Trophies - 9 Wins - 3 Runner Ups - 3 Thirds -


- /////ALPINE - CRESCENDO - TRU Technology - DYNAUDIO - Stinger - Dynamat -

- Presented By -

- 1998 Subaru Impreza WRX -


:Trusted Buyers/Sellers:

- poisoner - trism - Fhrx - Gozza - nee - Leviathan - mac_man_luke - edy - Marc - advance - Tiger - Vazard -

- Big_Valven - Mafish - raff - Westy87 - cc1206 - hilas07 - Nic - sqking - SMI7HY - Elmo - keeddlez - MRVJ -

- sunday_diver - Daedalus - FL0SSIN - broadz - Gonadman2 - MR_XR6 - TEGBOY - nemesis - sliksilvia - sanzy -

- SStealth - Deftone2k - Tezza_VESSV - PURESX - SINTX3 - Doorslammer - orsm-vs - Syd_pulsin -


#8 muzzy66

    Alfarophile

  • Members
  • 5,109 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sydney
  • Interests:Audio, computing and electronics, automotive, music.
  • State:NSW

Posted 27 April 2007 - 02:04 PM

Bi-amp for sure.



Individual level control over your mids and tweeters is critical so I'd go for it for sure if the option is there.
2004 Alfa 147 Twin Spark (Phase 1)
Source: Clarion HX-D2
Tweeter: Scan-Speak D3004/6020-00
Midbass: Scan-Speak 18W/8535-00
Speaker Amp: Tru-Technology Billet B-475
Subwoofer: Peerless 830877 XXLS 12"
Subwoofer Amp: Celestra VA210


1998 Ford EL Fairmont
Source: Eclipse CD8455
Tweeter: Scan-Speak D3004/6020-00
Midbass: Peerless 831882 HDS Exclusive
Subwoofer: Peerless 830846 XXLS 10"
Amp: Helix HXA-500

#9 Stone

    3kW Power House

  • Members
  • 7,048 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mornington Peninsula
  • State:VIC

Posted 27 April 2007 - 06:20 PM

Looks like i'll be giving the bi-amping a go in the near future then :)

And yeah, the passives have the option for bi-amping.

#10 Damo95

    Team Tennent

  • Members
  • 7,180 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Boronia
  • Interests:Car audio & Architecture
  • State:VIC

Posted 27 April 2007 - 08:38 PM

mad89, on Apr 27 2007, 11:38 AM, said:

i was going to say to run a 2.500 per side, as in one for left one for right, but i dont think they have independant gains for each channel do they?


run 1 amp per side is another option.. i've done that in mine... works well, and ultimate channel separation and you can still bi-amp if you want.. or bridge per side..



if you dont wanna do that, and your crossovers allow for bi-amping.. do it! you wont look back...

Posted Image


Damo - The MEAVIC Photographer

My ride : 2001 VX Lumina wagon - [CRUZN.5]
Signal & Control by: /////Alpine

Music & Mayhem by: Morel & Image Dynamics

Power by: Phoenix Gold


Thanks to : Phatt Audio Concepts : Sew Fine Interiors : Coinslot Enterprises


#11 RMA

    500 - 1500w RMS

  • Members
  • 1,051 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • State:VIC

Posted 28 April 2007 - 09:25 AM

Bi Amp is an improvement for sure.

As you have two LRx amps you can band pass them if you wish by using the bypass output which will output where you cut off the frequency or option two is to bi amp the Boston crossovers and have the Audison crossovers wide open.



In either case there should be a marked improvement.

Not all things in the car audio industry are created equal...
Especially equipment and installers.

A bad installer won't blame his tools or his skill, he'll blame the equipment!


#12 Stone

    3kW Power House

  • Members
  • 7,048 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mornington Peninsula
  • State:VIC

Posted 28 April 2007 - 10:50 AM

Thanks. I'll leave the amp's crossovers open and use the head unit's bandpass and high pass features along with the passive crossovers.

The only concern I have is setting the gain for tweeters... How do you hear them distort without damaging them?

#13 shiny_car

    Posts too much

  • Admin
  • 40,182 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Victoria
  • State:VIC

Posted 28 April 2007 - 11:56 PM

how did you tune them before? i expect you tuned it to 'below clipping' or to a level where the door woofers weren't distortion.

so, i would first tune the door woofers, per normal. then simply tune in the tweeters to achieve the ideal balance. you are unlikely to need to feed the tweeters a lot more power than before, so risk of overpowering them should be low.

and perhaps the passive xover have inbuilt tweeter protection circuitry?

:)

Alfa Romeo 75 (project car): Car Gallery I II III IV
(pending) /////ALPINE . Audible Physics . AudioTechnology . mosconi . morel

Alfa Romeo GT (weekender): Car Gallery I II III | Stereo Stage I II III IV V VI VII
/////ALPINE F1 . morel . DYNAUDIO . \\\IMAGE DYNAMICS/// . OPTIMA . Stinger . Dynamat
MEASQ Runner-Up National Finals 2009 / 2010 / 2011

Alfa Romeo 155 (daily driver): Car Gallery I II III IV V VI | Stereo Stage Ia Ib II III
/////ALPINE F1 . sinfoni . morel . OPTIMA . Stinger . Dynamat

Alfa Romeo 156 (2001-2006): Stereo Stage I II III IV V
CAASQ Pro Show Class - Victorian & National Champion 2005






1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users