The Latest from the Australian Mobile Electronics Industry Since 1999 60,000+ Readers Per Month! Get the MEA iPhone App

Jump to content


IDMAX- why is it soo popular?


22 replies to this topic

#1 philz

    1500 - 3000w RMS

  • Members
  • 2,384 posts
  • State:NSW

Posted 29 April 2007 - 09:24 PM

Okay, I just recently got my IDMAX.



And I based my purchase throughout MEA forums, and also many other international car audio forums.

A majority, well a lot of people I must say, recommend the IDMAX for SQ purposes, but I never understand why they recommend it, what is soo good about it? I don't think its all hype, cause sooo many people agree that its a very nice SQ sub, and there are hardly any CONs about it, mainly all PROs.



I must say putting it in about 0.6-0.7cuft sealed box, the sub is very efficient, plays very low, but I havent really tested if it's any accurate, since I don't really have a front stage, for it to blend in, and also I didn't have enough time to test the sub just yet.



Can anyone go into a bit of a detail description?

Edited by philz, 30 April 2007 - 09:02 AM.

Clarion DPX2251 for sale.

#2 trism

    why so serious

  • Members
  • 5,997 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Hunter Valley
  • Interests:ummmm Car Audio??????
  • State:NSW

Posted 29 April 2007 - 09:40 PM

while i havnt heard one, ill base it on similar reasons to my XXX, based on what i have read..

it can go very low, while staying linear, and not get messy when playing complicated bassnotes, or fast double kicks,

ill let someone who has head one complete this...

oh and on a side note, why didnt you say hello to some people?? im pretty sure i was standing right infront of you when you did the cash/sub handover, you should have stuck around!!!

Edited by trism, 29 April 2007 - 10:04 PM.

RE/ALPINE/STINGER/

TRUSTED BUYERS/SELLERS: mad89 / Terebro / AndrewK / 20Hurtz / bob / ultim8DTM5
/ nemesis / i286 / faulksy / thematt / db nathan / pritchy / spiderman / Antony / Michae1 /


Posted Image


#3 zion187reigneth

    General monkey

  • Members
  • 3,096 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Russia
  • Interests:DIrt bikes,Drag racing,General monkey business
  • State:Other

Posted 29 April 2007 - 09:51 PM

its cheaper than 1k and does the job, plus like u said top cars have had sucess with them, they look great.
My theory is to not even spend a single minute searching the mass of info on popular sub,,just copy the champs ideas and create it to your own work.Its the same theory in all competition where the people with the big budget do all the tests and the little guy eventually recieves the info for free after a season or 2.Now thats sourcing at its finest :P ......cors

My history
1977 LX torana=Remove HU and speakers ~run quarter mile 12.68
Gorilla Nuts= deceased (all parts were removed)
no car sound at all.
The Irrepressible nature of install monkey's
http://s98.photobuck...nstall_monkeys/

Posted Image


#4 DG Phil

    Hoogste Hond

  • Members
  • 11,943 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • State:QLD

Posted 29 April 2007 - 09:55 PM

philz, on Apr 29 2007, 09:24 PM, said:

Okay, I just recently got my IDMAX.



And I based my purchase throughout MEA forums, and also many other international car audio forums.

A majority, well a lot of people I must say, recommend the IDMAX for SQ purposes, but I never understand why they recommend it, what is soo good about it? I don't think its all hype, cause sooo many people agree that its a very nice SQ sub, and there are hardly any CONs about it, mainly all PROs.



I must say putting it in about 0.6-0.7cuft sealed box, the sub is very efficient, plays very low, but I havent really tested if it's any accurate, since I don't really have a front stage, for it to blend in, and also I didn't have enough time to test the sub just yet.



Can anyone go into a bit of a detail description?




It is quite a nice sub.



Phil
Posted Image
RE Audio -- US Amps -- CDT Audio -- Cactus Sounds -- ZED Audio -- Zapco
Builder of the loudest car in Australia 1999-2009
First over 155, 160 and 165dB

#5 philz

    1500 - 3000w RMS

  • Members
  • 2,384 posts
  • State:NSW

Posted 29 April 2007 - 09:59 PM

trism, on Apr 29 2007, 09:40 PM, said:

oh and on a side note, why didnt you say hello to some people?? im pretty sure i was standing right infront of you when you did the cash/sub handover, you should have stuck around!!!




ohh really?, yeah I wasn't really sure who was who, would've like to have stay longer to meet some people and listen to stuff, but couldn't, I was already late getting to the CAASQ, and then I had to leave to meet with friends.



I should be there at another round, or whenever my car is ready, but I'm pretty busy, and can never really stay at any events for long. :(

edit: DD phil I've read that article like 3 times already, prior to choosing the sub.
There was an argument on another forum about the sub testing being bias, cause the RF and DD were in ported boxes and the others were in sealed.
But I still chose the ID cause it was purchased 2nd hand- good price/ positive responses.

Edited by philz, 29 April 2007 - 10:05 PM.

Clarion DPX2251 for sale.

#6 master_luke

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 700 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • State:Other

Posted 29 April 2007 - 10:00 PM

in reference to phils above attachment

points for power handling???? wtf???

it should be points for efficiency, why someone would give points on a sub based on its power handling is beyond me :S

a sub that handles a gazillion watts is definetly not as good as one that hnadles 1000watts and makes the same output!

Edited by master_luke, 29 April 2007 - 10:01 PM.

Alpine CDA-9815 | OZ Audio Matrix Elite 180CS | Audison VRx6 Direct | 2 x Image Dynamics ID12's | Optima D34
In storage: a/d/s PQ10.2, RF Power650, Sansui SM-A907DL, 2xIDQ8's

#7 Shreknos

    Its hammer time!

  • Members
  • 1,682 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sunny Berwick
  • State:VIC

Posted 29 April 2007 - 10:02 PM

thats a nice SUBJECTIVE article phil


:P
RS Sport "SQ Edition"

Clarion HXD2

Crescendo Opus 8.6

Fi Audio Q 12"

JL Audio 300/4

JL Audio 500/1

#8 muzzy66

    Alfarophile

  • Members
  • 5,109 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sydney
  • Interests:Audio, computing and electronics, automotive, music.
  • State:NSW

Posted 29 April 2007 - 10:10 PM

My first sub was an IDMAX, and the reason why they are so popular is because they are just such an excellent all-purpose sub.

1) They are extremely sensitive so they can sound great and go plenty loud enough for SQ purposes off as little as 100w.
2) For those who want to hit it every now and they, the subs are rated at 1,000w RMS and I can confirm they'll hapilly take it.
3) They play extremely deep in smallish sealed encloures which makes them a very practical sub installation-wise.
4) They go very, very loud for a sub that isn't built purely for SPL, and yet they still sound very good for SQ use.

There are louder subs, and there are better sounding subs - but for the price I dont know of a sub that does a better job of combining sound quality, looks, SPL and ease of use.

Edited by muzzy66, 29 April 2007 - 11:27 PM.

2004 Alfa 147 Twin Spark (Phase 1)
Source: Clarion HX-D2
Tweeter: Scan-Speak D3004/6020-00
Midbass: Scan-Speak 18W/8535-00
Speaker Amp: Tru-Technology Billet B-475
Subwoofer: Peerless 830877 XXLS 12"
Subwoofer Amp: Celestra VA210


1998 Ford EL Fairmont
Source: Eclipse CD8455
Tweeter: Scan-Speak D3004/6020-00
Midbass: Peerless 831882 HDS Exclusive
Subwoofer: Peerless 830846 XXLS 10"
Amp: Helix HXA-500

#9 Wisdom

    500 - 1500w RMS

  • Members
  • 696 posts
  • State:ACT

Posted 29 April 2007 - 11:14 PM

3 words to sum it all up :P

"bang for buck" :D
Watch this space!

#10 philz

    1500 - 3000w RMS

  • Members
  • 2,384 posts
  • State:NSW

Posted 30 April 2007 - 09:01 AM

hmmm what muzzy66 said is pretty much why I chose it, over most subs.

But I would like to the know the technical side, I mean the Sound Quality, does it blend in easy with the front stage, easy to work with/tune, not picky with its enclosure, hits low, can play high, accurate, etc.
I guess the thread title is different to what i wanted to know lol.
Clarion DPX2251 for sale.

#11 zion187reigneth

    General monkey

  • Members
  • 3,096 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Russia
  • Interests:DIrt bikes,Drag racing,General monkey business
  • State:Other

Posted 30 April 2007 - 09:08 AM

I would spend some hours on winISD and see what u can formulate for your given space..........cors

My history
1977 LX torana=Remove HU and speakers ~run quarter mile 12.68
Gorilla Nuts= deceased (all parts were removed)
no car sound at all.
The Irrepressible nature of install monkey's
http://s98.photobuck...nstall_monkeys/

Posted Image


#12 philz

    1500 - 3000w RMS

  • Members
  • 2,384 posts
  • State:NSW

Posted 30 April 2007 - 09:13 AM

Well I shall try that, but from what I can gather, and what I have been told is that 0.9cuft is best for the 10, which is no problem for space, anyhting more than 2cuft would be a problem. But I still shall spend some time on winisd.
Clarion DPX2251 for sale.

#13 ~thematt~

    If I think its funny, it is. If you dont, you're stupid

  • Members
  • 3,306 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:WA
  • State:WA

Posted 30 April 2007 - 12:30 PM

philz, on Apr 30 2007, 07:01 AM, said:

But I would like to the know the technical side, I mean the Sound Quality, does it blend in easy with the front stage, easy to work with/tune, not picky with its enclosure, hits low, can play high, accurate, etc.
All of these points depend a lot on how you build your box, how you tune the system and what power is fed to the driver.

Things like 'does it blend easily with the front stage', is highly dependant on whether you have the ears to detect whether it doesnt. Most people use leveling to 'blend', so that when subbass and midbass are both operating at around the same levels, they seem to 'form' a single note. Some people go as far as using tonality and colour changes between mid and sub bass to determine the difference, which makes selecting a woofer tougher. Personally, I find it difficult to detect tonality changes unless the woofers are totally different to the front stage (say a dry woofer coupled with warm fronts) so its easier to fool by blending well. Other challenge here is system resonance and vibrations. The sub will always vibrate your car more then your midbass, so unless the car is deadened well, the vibrations can assist in breaking up the blend.

Subs that are 'not picky' with their enclosures usually are aimed at sealed-dependant units, as there is a higher degree of latitude with design and building. These are subs with a lower Vas, Higher Qts and preferably a higher efficiency. Being underdamped helps here (Qtc greater then .707), as you can modify the box to allow greater damping.

Any speaker can hit low. Its whether the driver can do it in a fairly linear fashion and in a transient manner. This will depend on the drivers Fs, its Qts (and obviously Qtc when the box is built), efficiency and power handling, Bl, Le and linear Xmax. Two things to remember when driving low, one is you move twice as much air as the higher octave and hence require twice the Xmax, the other is because you are moving more air the driver strength needs to be greater to ensure it has the capability to do it. This leads to more power being needed, hence higher power handling, lower inductance to allow transient signal changes and a fairly flat impedance curve so the amplifier doesnt struggle.

If you want it to play high, lower inductance is the key (Le) as its this factor that most greatly influences rapid changes in signal reproduction (higher frequencies). Sounding accurate is again a bevy of a few specs, namely Le, Hg (and hence Linear Xmax) and Qes.

The IDMax is by no means the best woofer on the market, but when done properly can pull off an accurate reproduction fairly well. The reason so many people love it, is its power handling capabilities (to account for low efficiency), fairly decent Le and Qes to give it a good response and the small box requirements (making it easy to use). That, and amplifiers available these days to power one are freely available, cheapish, good damping properties and good slew rates. With an IDMax, its like you cant lose almost. Also, since almost no music has signals below 25Hz, the impedance curve wont peak until below this, so your amplifier wont struggle or clip.

In the end, its the properties of the final system, and the skill of the building/tuner, that will bring a sub like this out into the open.

Edited by thematt, 30 April 2007 - 12:34 PM.

Posted Image


Its all about the music. Always has been, always will be. Im here for the music.

#14 Fhrx

    1500 - 3000w RMS

  • Members
  • 2,805 posts
  • Interests:Car Audio
  • State:NSW

Posted 30 April 2007 - 12:53 PM

My opinion would lie right in the middle of Muzzy66's and Thematt's replies...

#15 DG Phil

    Hoogste Hond

  • Members
  • 11,943 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • State:QLD

Posted 30 April 2007 - 05:27 PM

Shrek, on Apr 29 2007, 10:02 PM, said:

thats a nice SUBJECTIVE article phil


:P




Did I write the article???



Car Audio and Electronics have been around for a long time and their opinion is pretty well respected.



As I previously posted the ID Max is a nice woofer.



Phil
Posted Image
RE Audio -- US Amps -- CDT Audio -- Cactus Sounds -- ZED Audio -- Zapco
Builder of the loudest car in Australia 1999-2009
First over 155, 160 and 165dB





1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users