14 replies to this topic

[KGB]

<a href="http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=159311" target="_blank">http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=159311</a>

[VB-]

good thread, great info, but some-ones beat you to it. im sure i've seen it on here before

[KGB]

Yeah, I had a feeling it was on here but did a quick search and couldn't find it.
I had it book marked and saw somebody asking about a tweets in pillars tut in the "tuts wishlist" thread so figured I'd throw it out there again.

[Riley.]

yeah that was me who asked in a thread and it was given to me....i reposted it awhile ago in its own thread

[zion187reigneth]

the main problem with setting your tweets in concrete so to speak is that if u decide to mess with crossover settings by going active you may find small location tweaks the go.Some one needs to work on a way that tweeter movement and quality pillar install is 100%? ..........cors
wh33za are u still working on a way to do this?

[Riley.]

zion ive got a project for you

A pillar pods that allow the tweeter to slide up and down much like you can adjust the height of seatbelts in cars + a swivel mounting cup and you can move them all you like

[H2GLOW]

a bit old i know.....but where can you get something liek the backless material from?

Spotlight?

[Joontah]

If you use tweeters with flush mount swivel cups I believe you can get up to 15 degrees of adjustment even with the cups 'set in concrete'... it's what I've got, but I plan on installing them into the sail panels not the a-pillars.... anyone can link me to a tut on those? If not, I'll probably just do it VERY similar to this a-pillar tut... next weekend. (P.S, I'm a resin/fibreglassing virgin, so I'm gonna have a go at sealing the door service holes with fibreglass too. Any tips for a complete noob?

Edited by Joontah, 11 October 2009 - 09:23 AM.

[t w i g ™]

epic dig bro

[Big_Valven]

Tips for a complete noob?
1. It will take more resin than you think. I use a plastic cup full to do a set of pillars. (250mL?)
2. I usually only fg the region around the tweeter, then smooth it with the rest of the pillar. Takes a lot of material & resin to do the whole pillar, but needs less smoothing/finishing work/
3. I wouldn't recommend speaker grille cloth on it's own. Fleece (like your common jumper or pair of trackie dacks) is thicker and needs no reinforcement once it's done.
4. I would recess the tweeter further into the pillar than in that tutorial purely for appearance.
5. It takes longer to dry than you think. Mix the catalyst and resin carefully as per instructions, then after applying it just leave it be for a couple of hours. Don't worry about whether it will set or not during that time. Don't get over-zealous in the fear you mixed it too cold by adding heaps of catalyst and literally cooking your pillars.
6. For a first timer, make sure you get a fabric that's fairly stretchy in both directions, otherwise it's quite hard to get a nice appearance when you wrap them.
7. Wear old clothes, gloves, newspaper over all your surroundings, and do it outdoors! Resin (especially un-mixed) is impossible to get out of clothes and off fingers. It's nasty, and sticky.

Here are some recent photos from one of mine:
The tweeters didn't have any mounting cups or rings so I used PVC pipe, and cut it into the pillar... hot glued in place, then wrapped in fleece, and hot glued the fleece in place. Use minimal hot glue because it's irrelevant once the resin is set; it's just to hold things in place temporarily. Also notice how I wrapped the fleece with the profile of the pillars (left hand side of this photo) so the lines suited that of the pillar.



Then resin applied and set. It looks the same before it's set. Use something disposable to poke it and see if it's set, you don't want resin on your fingers.


Tweeter holes roughly cut


Sanded


A coat of bog on the joins and more sanding


Then trimmed, and the tweeters installed. This wasn't very stretchy fabric and a real challenge to wrap without wrinkles! With the PVC, layer of fg, then the fabric folded into the hole, the tweeter was a push fit, and I added a bracket behind to keep it in place.


And installed.

[outbackjack]

Pardon my igonarance. But arent tweeters suppose to be firing into the headrest of the opposite seat?? This doesnt appear to be the case here.

Dont shot me just trying to learn

Edited by outbackjack, 12 October 2009 - 10:07 PM.

[shizzle]

heya outbackjack,

All tweeters perform differently, and all cars are different. Its basically up to trial and error to find the best position. Some tweeters sound good facing each other from the a-pillar (particularly bright ones), and others pointing across the car to the opposite side.
Hell, some sound best reflecting off the windshield.

There are so many factors, blue-tac becomes your best friend when trying to find the best place for your tweets

[Big_Valven]

 shizzle, on Oct 13 2009, 06:41 AM, said:

heya outbackjack,

All tweeters perform differently, and all cars are different. Its basically up to trial and error to find the best position. Some tweeters sound good facing each other from the a-pillar (particularly bright ones), and others pointing across the car to the opposite side.
Hell, some sound best reflecting off the windshield.

There are so many factors, blue-tac becomes your best friend when trying to find the best place for your tweets

^ What he said. It depends on the car and the tweeters, but aiming at the opposite headrest is a good starting point/rule of thumb. The owner liked them facing at each other better as it makes the treble more delicate without losing detail; not so in-your-face.

[outbackjack]

OK Cheers.

Does this have a impact on staging?

[Big_Valven]

Yes, it's all related. Basically the goal is achieving a compromise between all of them.
In this particular car the stage isn't quite at eye level, basically just about the tweeters, but is very wide.

Edited by Big_Valven, 14 October 2009 - 09:32 PM.