The Latest from the Australian Mobile Electronics Industry Celebrating 10 years ... 2000 - 2010

Mobile Electronics Australia: Tutorial - Replacing Electric Antenna Mast - Mobile Electronics Australia

Jump to content

Advertisement

Page 1 of 1
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic

Tutorial - Replacing Electric Antenna Mast VN-VZ Commodore

#1 User is offline   Big_Valven Icon

  • Voltage drop is a lifestyle.
  • Icon
  • Group: Verified Trader
  • Posts: 3,524
  • Joined: 02-September 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Adelaide SA
  • Interests:Cars, Audio, Digital & Analogue Electronics
  • State:SA

Posted 26 July 2010 - 09:42 PM

Some mounting details will differ slightly for pre-VT commodores, but the antennae are identical.

PARTS:
VN-VZ Commodore Replacement Mast - Aerpro P/N AP250, about $42 from your local auto store.

TOOLS:
Phillips head screwdriver
Pliers
13mm socket

PROCESS:
Here is my broken antenna.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_ZpRGSoZ57rk/TE1s6HvVI_I/AAAAAAAAAiE/tV7-RLniLZo/Finished%20distros%20042.jpg

Remove the front left wheel. If you can't get to this stage I recommend taking it to a professional! Note that you don't actually need to remove the front bumper or open the bonnet, nor do you need absolutely stuffed brake rotors... I was doing other work at the time...
Sometimes you can turn the steering wheel to full lock right and get enough clearance to get the panel off without removing the wheel, but it is a lot easier this way and nearly essential if you're running 235s or larger.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_ZpRGSoZ57rk/TE1s4wuZAXI/AAAAAAAAAh4/O3mvxVMk1wc/Finished%20distros%20037.jpg

Remove the fasteners as marked on these photos to remove the wheel arch liner partially. The plastic pins are a pain, they jam easily.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_ZpRGSoZ57rk/TE1s9ipvdiI/AAAAAAAAAis/xCvHgRJ6TD4/Finished%20distros%20065.jpg

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_ZpRGSoZ57rk/TE1s-BMAFoI/AAAAAAAAAiw/mIcVvmk7-i4/Finished%20distros%20066.jpg

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_ZpRGSoZ57rk/TE1s5X2gX4I/AAAAAAAAAh8/MIcK8pknhAE/s512/Finished%20distros%20040.jpg

You can then undo the 13mm bolt and earthing screw.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_ZpRGSoZ57rk/TE1s54WRdlI/AAAAAAAAAiA/awaszEFpI4I/s512/Finished%20distros%20041.jpg

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_ZpRGSoZ57rk/TE1s6mZLGPI/AAAAAAAAAiI/OPlnbP4KcH0/Finished%20distros%20044.jpg

You can then pull a little bit of antenna cable out of the inner quarter panel and swing the top of the antenna down and out. Remove the chrome nut at top.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_ZpRGSoZ57rk/TE1s60K9PvI/AAAAAAAAAiM/DXJtFSAzLBA/Finished%20distros%20045.jpg

Remove the remnants of the broken mast. If the rope (plastic toothed cord) is still in it, you will need to turn the radio on to raise the antenna, so the cord comes out. Mine was quite tight, required some tough love to remove. The black plastic bush can come out too.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_ZpRGSoZ57rk/TE1s8u7d_yI/AAAAAAAAAig/6kyoZrta9yY/Finished%20distros%20052.jpg


http://lh3.ggpht.com/_ZpRGSoZ57rk/TE1s7tInnpI/AAAAAAAAAiU/pbwzSCQirrc/Finished%20distros%20047.jpg

The new mast and rope.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_ZpRGSoZ57rk/TE1s75LKsmI/AAAAAAAAAiY/E7Hp8c0Hh5E/Finished%20distros%20048.jpg

Note the orientation of the motor, and the teeth on the cord. Turn the radio on and allow the motor to "raise" the non-existant antenna - you may have to push the antenna body against the car to ground it and turn it on whilst removed. Push the cord in until you feel it stop, then turn the radio off to lower the antenna. You may need to feed it in a little, but it will take and lower most of the way eventually.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_ZpRGSoZ57rk/TE1s8SIVauI/AAAAAAAAAic/mTiZRoj9S8Y/Finished%20distros%20050.jpg

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_ZpRGSoZ57rk/TE1s8u7d_yI/AAAAAAAAAig/6kyoZrta9yY/Finished%20distros%20052.jpg

Put the chrome top nut back on and raise and lower the antenna a few times, it will click at the stops a few times, and eventually even out and run smoothly, and stop in the correct points.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_ZpRGSoZ57rk/TE1s9H7M_RI/AAAAAAAAAik/yV_yN78qq1g/Finished%20distros%20054.jpg

Feed the tip of the antenna back into the antenna bezel on the quarter panel.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_ZpRGSoZ57rk/TE1s9SKtneI/AAAAAAAAAio/WWADegnTCyo/Finished%20distros%20056.jpg

It is then simply a matter of screwing the ground lead back in, re-mounting the body of the antenna with the 13mm bolt, and putting the wheel arch liner back in.
MEA SA SQ+SPL Competition - first in SA!
New members welcome, novice, intermediate & advanced classes.

Get involved in MEA SA's first sanctioned competition!

Posted Image Posted Image
VX Commodore - Build thread | CRO5DUP Racing KE70 Corolla | Beep Beep - SPL | Always disconnect your battery before working on your system!




#2 User is offline   sweefu Icon

  • 25 - 250w RMS
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 138
  • Joined: 30-August 09
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Canberra
  • Interests:Cars, car stereo, suspension handling intake exhaust mods. Motorbikes
  • State:ACT

Posted 26 July 2010 - 10:51 PM

Great write up mate, thanks for taking the time out to do it.

#3 User is offline   D34M0N.inc Icon

  • Team.inc
  • Icon
  • Group: Verified Trader
  • Posts: 1,054
  • Joined: 08-March 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Geelong
  • Interests:Car Audio and Computer Tech :)
  • State:VIC

Posted 27 July 2010 - 01:15 AM

To replace the whole motor assembly do you have to remove the whole guard itself (Just asking for future reference if my dads one dies) 

Thanks for the tut though really helpfull.


Posted Image
PB 142.2DB
Posted Image
System:
HU: Pioneer DEH-9650MP (temp using rockford fosgate unit)
Fronts: OA Pro 6.5" Splits
Center: Vibe QB69 AKA 6x9 on steroids 
SUB: 2 x Mach5 IXL 12" 
Speaker Amp: PPI A1200/4 110wrms @4ohm x4
Sub Amp: 2x OA 1500w rms strapped @ 2ohm 3000w rms
 

#4 User is offline   Big_Valven Icon

  • Voltage drop is a lifestyle.
  • Icon
  • Group: Verified Trader
  • Posts: 3,524
  • Joined: 02-September 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Adelaide SA
  • Interests:Cars, Audio, Digital & Analogue Electronics
  • State:SA

Posted 27 July 2010 - 03:22 AM

View PostD34M0N.inc, on 27 July 2010 - 12:45 AM, said:

To replace the whole motor assembly do you have to remove the whole guard itself (Just asking for future reference if my dads one dies)

Thanks for the tut though really helpfull.


Nope. The entire antenna and motor will come out through the wheel arch liner gap just fine.

Incidentally, Holden's techlines instruct you to remove the whole antenna assembly and work on it outside of the car. I don't do this mainly because it requires you to get into the passenger kick panel to unplug the antenna cable, pop the grommet and pull the cable out, then re-fit it after. Not worth the effort if you are simply replacing the mast.
MEA SA SQ+SPL Competition - first in SA!
New members welcome, novice, intermediate & advanced classes.

Get involved in MEA SA's first sanctioned competition!

Posted Image Posted Image
VX Commodore - Build thread | CRO5DUP Racing KE70 Corolla | Beep Beep - SPL | Always disconnect your battery before working on your system!




#5 User is offline   D34M0N.inc Icon

  • Team.inc
  • Icon
  • Group: Verified Trader
  • Posts: 1,054
  • Joined: 08-March 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Geelong
  • Interests:Car Audio and Computer Tech :)
  • State:VIC

Posted 27 July 2010 - 05:59 PM

Ok thanks for that. How do you know that the mast needs replacing and not the whole lot? Or did your antenna snap off or something? 
Posted Image
PB 142.2DB
Posted Image
System:
HU: Pioneer DEH-9650MP (temp using rockford fosgate unit)
Fronts: OA Pro 6.5" Splits
Center: Vibe QB69 AKA 6x9 on steroids 
SUB: 2 x Mach5 IXL 12" 
Speaker Amp: PPI A1200/4 110wrms @4ohm x4
Sub Amp: 2x OA 1500w rms strapped @ 2ohm 3000w rms
 

#6 User is offline   Darkness_GR Icon

  • 500 - 1500w RMS
  • Icon
  • Group: Verified Trader
  • Posts: 695
  • Joined: 29-November 02
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Brisbane
  • Interests:Car Audio, Rugby Union, Triathalon, Computers
  • State:QLD

Posted 20 August 2010 - 10:02 AM

don't forget if the cord of the maast looks broken when you pull it out you will need to open up the arial and pull out the left over bits inside, as it may cause issues with the new mast and cord.

Grant
Car: Beasty Triumph 2500 PI mk2
Project 1:
old skool, Focal, Clarion, Stinger, Dynamat (looking to finish by 3010 lol)

Progess needed:
1/2 Stereo Install, Turbo, Amp, Rewire


Ute: Holden VZ SS Thunder - Looking to Sell
Project 2: Focal, Alpine, Stinger, Dynamat, Arc Audio, Image Dynamics
Progress Needed: Everything


Page 1 of 1
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic