Mobile Electronics Australia: welding cable.... again.. - Mobile Electronics Australia
welding cable.... again..
#1
Posted 01 March 2005 - 09:12 AM
1: iv moved the battery(s) to the boot.. so i need pwer to the starter and aultinator.. im thinking $400 of stinger cable is quite a masive waste of money to start my car.. so welding cable is where im headed.. is welding cable ok for this job?? and what gauge would be deemed reasonable.. i was thinking 0 gauge run tot he front of the car then distribution block and send 0 gauge to the starter and 4 gauge to the aultinator.. does this sound ok?
2: are the mm2 and diameter figures the core area or the over all area
http://badman.gotdns.com/sbadman/electrical/AWG-to-mm2.jpg
cheers
gene
#2
Posted 01 March 2005 - 09:43 AM
Also depending on your car I guess, we use 4ga on R31 skylines ( 6 cyl 3 litre ) and starts fine, we also used this on a dodge charger ( something like 7.2 litres v8) and it also worked, so 0 guage might be overkill for yours. 2ga would be a nice mix, although don't commonly see it.
#4
Posted 01 March 2005 - 10:04 AM
Here's a link to a write up with pics:
http://www.celicatec...read.php?t=3356
Hope that helps,
Matt
#5
Posted 01 March 2005 - 02:30 PM
0AWG would be the minimum for battery related stuff. 00 isn't that much more expensive (you are still saving money compared to brand name wire) so you might thing about running that!
And I think that the measurements relate to the core rather than the entire wiring (shielding and all)
#7
Posted 01 March 2005 - 04:11 PM
welding cable is fine for anything like this, in fact it is ideal because it has a double sheaf of insulation. 4 guage is more than enough for anything automotive. The only reason you might want anything bigger for a boot battery to engine cable is if the car in question was a f350 or a truck.
We use 4 guage welding cable on any welder under 250 amps power. I have yet to see any car stereo amplifier pull that much power continuously. Welding cable has to carry that amperage continuously, hours and not for a brief milliseconds like an amplifier. besides, trying to run 0 guage cable thru your car boot to bonnet, you wont be able to hide it under the carpet.
8 guage is normally good for the altenator wire. Most factory altenator wires are 10 - 12 guage and only 8 guage for altenators rated over 200 amps. But keep in mind that when your engine is running it is the altenator that is running all your electrics including your stereo so using 4 guage for your altenator to battery is good piece of mind.
5 years collecting trophies for car audio,
5 years giving trophies for car audio,
5 years of just enjoying car audio.
#9
Posted 01 March 2005 - 05:55 PM
#10
Posted 01 March 2005 - 06:30 PM
#11
Posted 01 March 2005 - 07:02 PM
im not using it for sterio, just to start the car
as for getting it through the fire wall .. well every hole has been welded up and its all hiden under the front gaurds so theres no problem there
#12
Posted 02 March 2005 - 09:36 AM
bassman454 said:
Well, welders are not that much better off than cars. A lot of adjustable output welders have a range down to 20 volts and most welders work only in dc. Voltage drop is an issue for welders as well which is why they use large cables in the first place. The cable sizing takes into account enough to minimize vd.
The americans worked out formula's for calculating cable size for car stereo years ago. But it was all a bit useless because of the availability and cost of cables. You would use the calculator and determine a size such as 7 or 6 guage, but try to buy those sizes? and why bother when 4 guage is only 5 bucks a meter?
After a while, people assumed that 4 guage was the norm with out realising it is twice as big as needed for the average multi amp system and started going up a size "just to be sure" when the original standard was uped a size of two already "just to be sure"
You know, when I was in the overhead power line industry, it was a bit of a joke going around about car stereo nuts running industrial sized power cable in their cars.
I used to run 8 guage in my system (only 200 watts rms back then) because I worked out the correct cable size for the system, then went up 2 sizes "just to be sure" then upgraded it to 4 guage only because I was picked on in install scoring because the judges didnt know any better.
Oh, and why is it that we insist on these huge power cables to connect to our amps, but we only use little cables to connect our amps to the speakers?
Seems a bit silly to me to want to connect 4 guage power cable to our amps for power and only 16-12 guage cables to our speakers. Aren't amps approx 50% efficient?
Ah but, I only worked in the over head powerline industry/big ass power line stuff for nine years.
What would I know?
5 years collecting trophies for car audio,
5 years giving trophies for car audio,
5 years of just enjoying car audio.
#14
Posted 02 March 2005 - 01:49 PM
As for the power wire I run from amps - well the sub gets 4 guage runs
#15
Posted 02 March 2005 - 06:16 PM
if 4 gauge is big enough, why do so many manufactures specify two runs of 4, or a single 0/1? me used welding cable and ran it tru the chassis/sub frames to avoid the bulging floor/firewall grommet problem. it worked too.
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