[VPwagon]

Hi guys,
I picked up my car from the panel beaters today (long story!) and when I got home the alarm remote locked the doors fine. Went to open them few mins later and it beeped twice as it does, I pulled the door handle, but as you may have guessed, it was still locked.
After a few more clicks of the buttons, I just used the key and it opened fine.

So I took of the door trim (drivers side) loosened the actuator, allowing it to freely move in and out without being connected to the lock rod. And now it wouldn't lock or unlock!
I thought the actuator was on its way out, so went and bought another one for $15. Connected the 2 blue and green wires, clicked the remote, and still nothing...

When I operate the lock by key or by the button on the door trim, both doors open and lock fine. The alarm and immobiliser are still fully functional minus the central locking.

Panel beaters were working on the front of the car (bumper, etc) and cliam to have not gone any where near the door trim or electrics.

Funny thing I just noticed is it now chirps as if the doors are open when I lcok the car by remote. I checked and the doors are unarmed, but the boot and bonnet are still armed (I think the neighbours must have a hit out on me by now).
When operating correctly, even if the doors were open they would still lock...

So does anyone have experience with the M80G alarm? What else could be the culprit for the doors not locking?
I have an auto-window winder fitted with the alarm if that makes a difference.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Cheers

[Big_Valven]

It sounds like a connection between your central locking control, and your alarm is broken... OR that one of your door trigger(s) is telling the alarm that a door is still open.

[Audio Express]

check your wiring between the door and body. THEN check your fuses in the alarm side of it.

[VPwagon]

Thanks guys!
Checked the fuses - they're fine

Looks like I'll have to try follow the wiring around, on both doors... I just wonder what could have got it the way all of a sudden

[Alex (rbimdxe)]

When you close the doors, does the interior light stay on?

On my old M80, even if the doors were open and you armed it, it would still lock the doors, and chirp to alert you that they were open.

You'll most likely go through the trouble of tracing wires only to find it's something trivial, like a connection ahs come loose somewhere.

Good luck.

[bsyde]

Not sure about the locking but if they were working in the front, check the bonnet switch is not broken because if it is it will chirp like a door is open.
Ill think about the lock today seee if i cant come up with an idea. What car and year? Key barrel probably works locking because its fatory c/lock in it and alarm normally triggers aftermaket motor to trigger the factory c/lock

This post has been edited by bsyde: 12 November 2009 - 05:50 AM

[icacha]

bsyde, on Nov 12 2009, 06:45 AM, said:

alarm normally triggers aftermaket motor to trigger the factory c/lock

or factory motors where not a switch

[wazzab4]

And the fuses he ment the one in the wiring harness for the alarm not the one in the fuses panel.

[VPwagon]

Thanks guys.
Yeh, It was the alarm wiring fuse, not std fuses.

Its not the bonnet or boot, because if u arm the alarm and open them, it triggers the alarm.

Its an ADM S15. Comes with central locking from factory. I did try a new actuator / motor...

So I had a look at the drivers side, everything looks fine. Will get to the passenger side sometime this w/e hopefully. I just hope the issue is some where visible, and not inside the control unit or something.
Spoke to the panel beaters, looks like they'll take it in and get an auto-sparky to have a look at it. They're ages away though, so would be good to fix it myself. Plus, I hate being without a car

[Audio Express]

VPwagon, on Nov 13 2009, 07:06 AM, said:

Thanks guys.
Yeh, It was the alarm wiring fuse, not std fuses.

Its not the bonnet or boot, because if u arm the alarm and open them, it triggers the alarm.

Its an ADM S15. Comes with central locking from factory. I did try a new actuator / motor...

So I had a look at the drivers side, everything looks fine. Will get to the passenger side sometime this w/e hopefully. I just hope the issue is some where visible, and not inside the control unit or something.
Spoke to the panel beaters, looks like they'll take it in and get an auto-sparky to have a look at it. They're ages away though, so would be good to fix it myself. Plus, I hate being without a car

depends who's done the alarm. I usually pull the ARROW unit (nissan remote) and use the OEM fitted actuator in those. that would save putting wiring through and give another problem with the added (and NOT needed) actuator. if you have killed both fuses (the ones in the orange and violet wires) then you have a exposed wire somewhere and that is touching the frame.


no need to pull the passenger door down. remote entry on 90% of nisssan cars is an afterthought. the passenger door is SEPARATE to the drivers one and has it's own controller. if that door works off the drivers side with the key then there is NOTHING wrong with it and no need to touch it.

[VPwagon]

Sonny, on Nov 13 2009, 09:28 AM, said:

depends who's done the alarm. I usually pull the ARROW unit (nissan remote) and use the OEM fitted actuator in those. that would save putting wiring through and give another problem with the added (and NOT needed) actuator. if you have killed both fuses (the ones in the orange and violet wires) then you have a exposed wire somewhere and that is touching the frame.


no need to pull the passenger door down. remote entry on 90% of nisssan cars is an afterthought. the passenger door is SEPARATE to the drivers one and has it's own controller. if that door works off the drivers side with the key then there is NOTHING wrong with it and no need to touch it.

Thanks for that.
It is an aftermarket actuator, and i'v tried replacing it - but still doesn't work
I only found 1 fuse (15amp i think?) running near the actuator, and it was fine - not blown..
Where would the second fuse be likely wired in?

Chers,
Max

[Audio Express]

VPwagon, on Nov 17 2009, 06:02 PM, said:

Thanks for that.
It is an aftermarket actuator, and i'v tried replacing it - but still doesn't work
I only found 1 fuse (15amp i think?) running near the actuator, and it was fine - not blown..
Where would the second fuse be likely wired in?

Chers,
Max

there will be two 7.5A fuses there around the alarm unit. look at those.

[immobiliserdoctor]

VP Commodores have full factory central locking, there is a plug behind the fuse panel with the neg trigger wires in it. Colors are Brown/Red (Lock) and Brown/Orange (Unlock). No need for an aftermarket motor at all. You will need to modify the wiring from the c/l plug of the Mongoose unit to take advantage of this, because presently it is wired for a motor, while it would need to be wired for negative trigger connection ie: 2 x normally closed are now earthed, cut them and insulate. 2 x normally open are now 12v +, cut and join to earth. 2 x common wires, now going to motor, cut and join to factory wires described above. Note that 12v and earth will be found in the same plug. Once you've done this, you can remove the aftermarket motor from the door.

I'm also guessing that you have no interior light bulb and that the "short" to the door circuit is actually the courtesy light switch on the LHS of the instrument cluster is switched on, making the alarm think that the door is open. I've seen this too many times to count.

Good luck

[Audio Express]

immobiliserdoctor, on Nov 23 2009, 02:04 PM, said:

VP Commodores have full factory central locking, there is a plug behind the fuse panel with the neg trigger wires in it. Colors are Brown/Red (Lock) and Brown/Orange (Unlock). No need for an aftermarket motor at all. You will need to modify the wiring from the c/l plug of the Mongoose unit to take advantage of this, because presently it is wired for a motor, while it would need to be wired for negative trigger connection ie: 2 x normally closed are now earthed, cut them and insulate. 2 x normally open are now 12v +, cut and join to earth. 2 x common wires, now going to motor, cut and join to factory wires described above. Note that 12v and earth will be found in the same plug. Once you've done this, you can remove the aftermarket motor from the door.

I'm also guessing that you have no interior light bulb and that the "short" to the door circuit is actually the courtesy light switch on the LHS of the instrument cluster is switched on, making the alarm think that the door is open. I've seen this too many times to count.

Good luck

thats fine but the car was not a commodore it was a nissan 200sx. hardly a GM product.

[immobiliserdoctor]

Audio_Exp, on Nov 23 2009, 04:04 PM, said:

thats fine but the car was not a commodore it was a nissan 200sx. hardly a GM product.

Ah-ha... well... oops. Oh, I see "S15", not VP Wagon. Hmmmm.