I originally posted this in the General Discussion section... but realised it was more of an SQ type question

Just wanted to get your (educated/experienced) opinions on whether there is any point in me installing thicker wires (say 16GA) into my doors to connect my splits' wires (from tweeter, to xover to woofer) to my stock wiring.
I know typically it would be better to use the 16GA throughout, but it is really too difficult getting the wire through the little gap to connect to the rest of the car (you know from car door to car frame).

Anyone with a 97+ prelude will know what i mean.

So... is it worth me upgrading the in-door wiring for my splits? Or should I just keep the thin cheap stock wires there?
Would there be any improvements/gains in terms of SQ?

Cheers

Just leave it as is... I think if there was any SQ improvement, it'd be so small you wouldnt tell the difference...

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I think that's right.
But if you were already in the doors doing sound-deadening/sealing, then I'd prob do it while I was there on the "can't hurt" basis. Only a few $$, but I don't think I'd worry too much otherwise.

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Mazda SP20 - NOT yellow,Dynamat Extreme and G Spot in front doors
HU - Alpine CDA-7876RB
Audison VRx 2.150EX front stage amp
JL Audio 500/1 Class D monoblock sub amp
Front Stage - Morel HCW 6.5 woofers, Morel MT2 tweeters, Morel MX2.2 x-overs.
Rear fill - stockies with power from HU (not that they get any)
Sub - Kicker S12L72 in 75 litre 30Hz slot-ported display box.
Stinger cables and connectors etc
TEAM AUDISON SQ WITH ATTITUDE

it will probably have a placebo effect on your SQ, but hey it cant hurt.

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C A A . S A . C O M M I T T E E . M E M B E R

[Edited 1 time by Walkinshaw on 18 August 2002 at 18:56]

Leave as is or drill a new hole for the wiring, Honda door grommets are a nightmare!!

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TEAM /////ALPINE
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hmm... thanks for the reply... but u guys understand that I am actually using Al Cheapo thin wiring between the splits' components ie between the crossover, tweeter and woofer?

And then thin wiring from the door to the car, where it connects to fatter 16GA which hooks up to the amp?

Just wondering if its worth the effort prying the door open again.

Jet I'm in the same boat as you .. got cheapo stuff from tweets to xover, and mids to xover. And from amp to wire, to wire to fronts

But wire is wire really, I might change it later when I got a few spare days but can't be bothered. If it bothers you that much just do it

i had the same problem in the GF's car, the best way is to use good wire up as far as u can go to the inside of the grommets and then use the factory wire from there on!

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car:1 the pulsar N12
blaupunkt las vegasboston pro 12.4 Boston Rally 6.5in splitsHertz H535

car:2 SEAT CORDOBA Sony HU Hertz HKS165Boston rally 10in
Hertz H4??

I tend agree there's little difference.. While I use transparent 12G for my rears and Orion Wired 8g for the sub thats only because you can see them when you look at the system in the boot.
Seeings as how no one ever see's the wiring for my front stage I used the bodgy cable that came free with a pair of Dominator splits and the factory harness.. there's little to no difference so why go to the extra hassle ?

Unless you start dumping 1000WRMS into the front stage, then you may want to consider something meatier

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strictly speaking, spekaer cabling does make an audible difference. home audio enthusiasts spend big bucks (like well over $100 a meter) on silver cable, functionally perfect copper etc. they claim that it provides greater ambience and space, among other things.

but in a car, i dont think its so important and as has been said any improvement will be hard to pickup.

but ive overhauled all my cabling and went to some effort to get monitor and high-res re/sponse cable through my door grommets, just makes me feel better like im doing justice to everything else that is there.

to be honest, i'd love to do a blind comparison between cable types in-car, as this would finally lay this issue to rest with some evidence

but yeah, if you can do it, cable everything well, if not, dont get too down about it - yet to see any proof either way!

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Custom SQ System

Source: Clarion DRX-9675z - Front Stage: Boston Acoustics Pro 6.5's - Centre Channel: Boston Acoustics FS50 Midrange - Ambient Satellites: Boston Acoustics 3/4" Kortec Tweeters - Processors: Audiocontrol EQT's - Subwoofers: Earthquake BR12's - Amplifiers: Kicker IX404's - Power: Stinger 1 Farad HPM Capacitor
Sounding sweet and taking it to the street

Thanks for that everyone. I probably won't be bothered prying open my door again to change the cabling.. I mean I have some leftover but its such a pain putting everything back properly.

On another note which BlackIce just brought to my attention... I won't be putting 1000Wrms into the front stage, but I may be putting say 120Wx2 Rms from an Audison Lrx2.250 which I hear is a 'high current' amp.

Can the al cheapo wires handle that kind of current or will they burn up and fry and set my doors alight?

Yes those wires will EASILY handle 250rms. Only when you subs etc. do you need to worry about guage like that, and thats got nothing to do with the quality of the wire either (although if you're putting 1k rms + i'd use good stuff)

as a related issue, i hear that hyundai excel's have very very thin and cheap wiring harnesses. so this may be a warning for anyone with an inexpensive vehicle who intends to pump big wattage through the factory loom.

another point: a high current amp means the amp draws alot of current from the cars electrical system, not that it puts high current out to the speakers. speaker-level signals transmitted along speaker cables are based on AC waveforms so there is really very little current going down them.

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Custom SQ System

Source: Clarion DRX-9675z - Front Stage: Boston Acoustics Pro 6.5's - Centre Channel: Boston Acoustics FS50 Midrange - Ambient Satellites: Boston Acoustics 3/4" Kortec Tweeters - Processors: Audiocontrol EQT's - Subwoofers: Earthquake BR12's - Amplifiers: Kicker IX404's - Power: Stinger 1 Farad HPM Capacitor
Sounding sweet and taking it to the street

High current amps are designed to run lots of speakers, and can handle low loads, so you could drive your whole system with just one amp, and using a totally passive set up.

My amps have high current capability, but it only switches in if a low load is used. My amp will put out 500 watts into 4 ohm but will still deliver 500 watts into one ohm. It doesnt double or quadruple the power as that only happens in theory and my amps are designed to produce same power to whatever load is presented. The amps will draw more current when shown a lower load though, and so hence the term hi current. If you dont run a low load, your amp will not be using its high current capability.
peace
Cyberpunky

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[Edited 1 time by Cyberpunky on 19 August 2002 at 22:42]