Bozza
Dec 20 2002, 12:00 AM
Howdy,
After doing a bit of research i'm proposing the following system in my EF Falcon that i'm gonna be getting soon:
HU: JVC SX985 Mp3 one w/3x4V preouts
Fronts: Dynaudio MW 160 & MD 100, fully active
Sub: Hertz AIR MILLE 3000 12" woofer, sealed box
Rear: old Clarion Coaxials, running off HU
AMP: Audison LRx 5.600, running fronts and sub
Cabling: Audison "Green" RCA's? (i think..)
I listen to rock/heavy rock, sometimes the guitar solos or vocals get real "screamy" or "harsh" on my current Clarion splits, will this system handle it?
Opinons please!
Mr_Bob
Dec 20 2002, 12:38 AM
yeah shoudl be fine, changing front speakers and fdoign a good install job will most likely fix that problem
the rest is a bonus
how much power will the 5.600 supply to the sub?
i have a feeling that it may not be enough for you.
Bozza
Dec 20 2002, 01:06 AM
According to RMaudio site, the LRx 5.600 is 4x65WRMS + 180WRMS for sub. I've been recommended Audison amps for SQ but don't have the type of money to delve into the VRx range!
How much would i need for the sub? I'm not a huge bass fan, but still it's nice to have
Mickee
Dec 20 2002, 01:10 AM
That sub is gonna be a bit underpowered...
other than that, it would be a sweet system. Running the dyns active will allow you to adjust your tweeter level perfectly to your tastes...
The MD100's are a beautifully smooth tweeter, and not too bright (like aluminium tweets and some cheaper soft dome tweets) your vocals will be very accurate, and won't be harsh unless the recording is harsh.
The hertz 12" should really get around 500rms...
Are you determined to go for an active front stage? Or is it purely because you're going for the 5 channel amp? You might be better just getting a good quality 2 channel amp for the front stage and running it passive, and another, more powerful amp for your sub...
[ December 19, 2002, 23:13: Message edited by: Mickee ]
Bozza
Dec 20 2002, 02:00 AM
Hmm how does 2 LRx 2.250's sound? They put out 2x120WRMS, or 420W bridged. I'd run 2x120W for fronts, 1x420W for subby. Good idea?
Mickee
Dec 20 2002, 02:21 AM
should be emotional...
Sonic Nirvana
Dec 20 2002, 11:09 AM
Personally I would go a 2 amp setup as suggested, a 2.150 or 2.250 for fronts and bridge another 2.250 to the sub. LRx's are Good Things.
Go passive xover on the front stage Dyns.
Will give the whole system a more effortless, seamless sound for mine, and be easier to get "right". A sealed 12" Air Mille will like its fair share of power and I'm not sure a 5 channel amp will do that.
Of course you will need to accommodate 2 amps, more power cable etc.
You have chosen a good direction for very satisfying quality sound for sure!!
Don't skimp on installation with this kind of system tho'.
Do it right, and you will be one happy camper.
Bozza
Dec 20 2002, 05:22 PM
Hey thanks a lot guys, I sent an e-mail to Phil from RM Audio, and he suggested the following:
- LRx 1.400 for 12" Air mille subby
- LRx 2.250 for Dynaudio front stage
The 1.400 puts out 350WRMS but he said it is designed for a sub, as opposed to just bridging a 2.250.
Sounds like it's worth saving the extra money for though
PartyJase
Dec 20 2002, 08:49 PM
just remember that both audison amps are class A/B so they draw a fair whack of current so the rest of your electrical system needs to be up to it.
Bozza
Dec 21 2002, 02:10 AM
QUOTE
Originally posted by PartyJase:
just remember that both audison amps are class A/B so they draw a fair whack of current so the rest of your electrical system needs to be up to it.
Actually that's probably something I know least about.. I've seen systems with "Optima Yellow Tops", capacitors, etc... could anyone briefly explain what this all does and maybe suggest a setup for this?
Cheers
Sonic Nirvana
Dec 21 2002, 12:06 PM
Personally I wouldn't worry about a cap, but I would run 4 gauge cabling throughout to manage the current draw properly.
As for the battery, it is not a "must do" unless you plan on running it hard with the car switched off. Deep cycle batteries like Optima Yellow Tops or the Oddessy's (available at a good price at our Web Store) are principally for that use and last much longer than regular batteries in that kind of use.
The quality/capacity of your charging system (alternator etc) is what is most critical for heavy current draw while driving (engine on and charging).
Phil's suggestions regarding the Audisons seem most appropriate for your use and YES it is worth saving a few more $$ to get it done properly, you won't regret that choice.
Bozza
Dec 23 2002, 03:27 AM
Thanks Critter
Just one last thing - about the alternator, what are they like in EF Falcons or VL Commodores?
Walkinshaw
Dec 23 2002, 05:39 AM
dunno about the VL's, but the EF's should have atleast an good strong 120amp alternator stock. I know my folks EL Fairmont has one.
shiny_car
Dec 23 2002, 08:25 PM
QUOTE
Originally posted by Bozza:
- LRx 1.400 for 12" Air mille subby
- LRx 2.250 for Dynaudio front stage
yeah, this will be an excellent combo.
i agree to run the dyn's via the passive xover unless you have money to burn and can afford the ideal amp(s) (eg: LRx4.300 + 1.400). plus you won't have the 'hassles' of trying to tune an active setup (which can be difficult).
unless you're trying to drive the system really, really hard, then i see no probs with the electrics of most modern cars. especially if you're only powering 4ohm speakers/sub. as mentioned by critter, ensure you use adequately thick powerwire to start with, and make quality connections, especially the ground. also consider upgrading the battery groundwire if it's thin (eg: thinner than 4awg).
good luck
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