I will soon be using a 4 ch amp and running my front splits active ( I don't have rears). What's the best way to do this with respect to the signal from my HU (CDA7969R) to the amp?
1. Use only the front preout, use RCA splitters to connect to amp.
2. Use front preout to control ch 1&2 (tweets) and use rear preout to control ch 3&4 (woofers) i.e. use two pairs of RCAs and no splitters.

Keeping in mind that I'm striving for the most pure SQ setup possible, I'm leaning towards option 2, as this will allow me to have time correction on each individual woofer and tweeter, and will keep the preout voltage input to the amp as high as possible.

opinions?

opt 2, just cause u can time correct each channel. IMO this works for me.

Mickee,

Does your amplifier has a bandpass crossover so you can run your mids? If so you should be good to go if not how are you going to cross over your speakers as most 4ch amps have either a high or low pass crossover....other than that i reckon option 2 would be the go although it depends where your mids and tweeters are mounted...if they are far apart i would use option 2 if they are very close together option 1 as it won't make too much difference

Mids and tweets are close together (lower doors).

The amp is a cadence A4... the signal from the HU would be high passed (both front and rear outputs have a HPF) at 100hz.

Ch 1&2 on the amp will be high passed at 3000hz to run the tweets. Ch 3&4 will be low passed at 3000Hz to run the woofers.

So, yes, the amp has suitable inbuilt crossovers to do this (very good crossovers I might add - 24db/oct with a funky digital display)

I would personally be trying to HP the mids a little lower than 100Hz. Other than that it seems like your on the way to nice active system.

Paul

cool, cadence A-series. you're the first i've heard to have one. what are your intial thoughts?

for the setup, i figure you otherwise have no use for the rear preouts.

in which case i'd go with option 2 as well. makes for fun tuning.

what splits?

Full system (subs still to be installed)

Deck - Alpine CDA-7969R
Front stage amp - Cadence A4
Front splits - Dynaudio system 240 GT's
Sub Amp - Cadence A7HC
Subs - 2x Cadence 10" Wild Beasts
Power - Odyssey 800 Amp Drycell
Cabling - Streetwires 0ga, Stinger Bullet RCA's, Stinger fuses and distro blocks.
Deadening - Stinger Roadkill and brown bread for front doors. Front door skins and rear inside panels lined with heavy duty auto carpet and 'sound felt'.

wow, should be a great system.

i'd be interested to find out how those subs perform next to the dyb splits. given that cadence subs look to be quite 'in ya face'.

but as discussed, given you won't be running rears, and will therefore have the rear preouts spare, use them as part of the active front stage configuration. will provide lots of tuning options.

if you have the chance, also run the splits passively just to compare. coz sometimes tuning an active front stage is tricky, and not necessarily better compared with a high quality passive setup like the system240GT's.

enjoy.

In fact, I am currently running the splits passively off a Cadence Z8000, but I'm changing to the A4 in about a week. My front stage is great already, but I'm keen to have all 'A' series amps, and I really want to go active to get a bit more control up front.

My image seems to float around my dash a bit at the moment (I'm using time correction to delay the driver side splits), especially vocals, they are all quite central but at different freqs they seem to shift position a little. I'm thinking that having separate time alignment on each woofer and tweeter should help me to 'solidify' my image.