I pretty much already have a deal made for cabling for my car but i'm curious as to what all you SQ heads are running.
What brand cabling (speaker, rca etc) are people using in their systems?
What size cables are you running for grounds/batt to HU/speakers to amps etc?
What size do you recommend for speakers? Is 14-gauge a decent size?
What brand distribution blocks etc do you all use?
Full Version: Cabling used in SQ
Head to amp: Monster Cable 1m M850i M Series interconnect.
Amp to splits: Nordost Flatline 2
Amp to subs: Live Lines 84 strand (you wont find this stuff for sale...my Dad had the patent for it, sold it and the new owner just sits on it.)
Battery to head unit: Rockford 10 guage.
Battery to amp: Monster Standard Power 4.
Some points...I'd really like to use all Monster or all Nordost. I'm a firm believer in keeping all cables the same. The Nordost interconnects I like aren't shielded and the Monster M Series speaker cable is too fat for the doors.
[ January 02, 2003, 20:17: Message edited by: Winno ]
Amp to splits: Nordost Flatline 2
Amp to subs: Live Lines 84 strand (you wont find this stuff for sale...my Dad had the patent for it, sold it and the new owner just sits on it.)
Battery to head unit: Rockford 10 guage.
Battery to amp: Monster Standard Power 4.
Some points...I'd really like to use all Monster or all Nordost. I'm a firm believer in keeping all cables the same. The Nordost interconnects I like aren't shielded and the Monster M Series speaker cable is too fat for the doors.
[ January 02, 2003, 20:17: Message edited by: Winno ]
if you can afford premium stuff, go for it. but IMO, it's not good value stuff. instead of spending an extra $200 on cabling/terminals, you'll get a definite improvement in spending that extra on speakers instead.
ok, that was generally speaking, and i know you're already setup with your components.
as you expect, there is added build quality in spending a bit more, especially with terminals/DBs/etc.
i primarily use stinger stuff, but also a mix of aerpro for wiring:
*power to amps: 0awg to DB, 4awg to main amps, 8awg to smaller amps
*groundwires: 2x 4awg battery, 0awg stereo, 0awg engine
*stinger terminals/DBs
*(with system upgrade: ) 5 amplifiers, total system rated power 1510WRMS on tap
*separate power to inside cabin (HU, neons, PS2, monitor): 8awg to DB, 12awg to HU, 12awg to relay for accessories
*groundwire: 8awg
*speakerwire: 16awg +14awg
*sub speakerwire: 12awg
*RCAs: stinger helix + hyper
i believe 16awg speakerwire is more than adequate for speakers (typical length ~3.5m to the front from boot). maybe 14awg if running high power (>150WRMS).
i really like stinger stuff for its high build quality and the plethora of variety in terminals, fuseholders, DBs, etc. they always have something available to suit my needs. and certainly where it's on view to onlookers, i use stinger.....rice!
only some of my 0awg and speakerwire is aerpro. which, for wire, i find perfectly adequate and good value.
[ January 02, 2003, 20:52: Message edited by: shiny_car ]
ok, that was generally speaking, and i know you're already setup with your components.
as you expect, there is added build quality in spending a bit more, especially with terminals/DBs/etc.
i primarily use stinger stuff, but also a mix of aerpro for wiring:
*power to amps: 0awg to DB, 4awg to main amps, 8awg to smaller amps
*groundwires: 2x 4awg battery, 0awg stereo, 0awg engine
*stinger terminals/DBs
*(with system upgrade: ) 5 amplifiers, total system rated power 1510WRMS on tap
*separate power to inside cabin (HU, neons, PS2, monitor): 8awg to DB, 12awg to HU, 12awg to relay for accessories
*groundwire: 8awg
*speakerwire: 16awg +14awg
*sub speakerwire: 12awg
*RCAs: stinger helix + hyper
i believe 16awg speakerwire is more than adequate for speakers (typical length ~3.5m to the front from boot). maybe 14awg if running high power (>150WRMS).
i really like stinger stuff for its high build quality and the plethora of variety in terminals, fuseholders, DBs, etc. they always have something available to suit my needs. and certainly where it's on view to onlookers, i use stinger.....rice!
only some of my 0awg and speakerwire is aerpro. which, for wire, i find perfectly adequate and good value.
[ January 02, 2003, 20:52: Message edited by: shiny_car ]
QUOTE
Originally posted by shiny_car:
plethora
plethora
IMO, soft core OFC power cable (such as that used for car audio) isn't suited to be used as the main lines from the car alternator to the battery, and battery to ground...
I use 200amp stiff core battery cable for these duties.
My cabling:
Alternator to battery - 200amp stiff core
Battery to ground - 3x 200amp stiff core
Battery to Distro block - 0awg Streetwires
Distro block to amps - 2awg Response
Amps to ground - 2awg Response
Amp to front splits - 12ga response
Amp to subs - 8awg Response
Battery to HU - 12ga response
RCA's - Stinger Bullet (silver twisted pair ones)
Terminals/Distro/fuses - Stinger
(My thinking is that, when it comes to power cabling, OFC copper is OFC copper... so I beleive the reponse/jaycar cable is as good as anything else. I do use high quality terminals and RCA's though.)
Where did you get Streetwires from?!!
Have you had it for a while, or is it avalable again in Australia?!
Have you had it for a while, or is it avalable again in Australia?!
I got it from Ange at Complete Audio... told him I needed a bit of 0awg (just from rear battery to Distro and for rear battery ground) and he pulled it out and handed it to me....
I don't know where you'd get it usually though... maybe ask Ange if he can get it in for ya??
I don't know where you'd get it usually though... maybe ask Ange if he can get it in for ya??
to me power and speaker wire is just wire. I will just buy a 30m roll of Jaycar Heavy Duty Speaker cable (Cat. WB-1709) for $19 would do a whole system for a decent price
If its too small you can get a Extra Heavy Duty 30m roll for $60 (Cat. WB-1713)
But one think i WANT to know is, how the hell do you guys cut 0awg i had to use a hack saw to cut 4awg and stainly knive to stip it
[ January 03, 2003, 11:34: Message edited by: Macca ]
If its too small you can get a Extra Heavy Duty 30m roll for $60 (Cat. WB-1713)
But one think i WANT to know is, how the hell do you guys cut 0awg i had to use a hack saw to cut 4awg and stainly knive to stip it
[ January 03, 2003, 11:34: Message edited by: Macca ]
QUOTE
Originally posted by Macca:
But one think i WANT to know is, how the hell do you guys cut 0awg i had to use a hack saw to cut 4awg and stainly knive to stip it
I can get through 4awg with a decent pair of pliers, no worries. For 0awg, I cut the insulation with a stanley knife, then hacksaw through it....
But one think i WANT to know is, how the hell do you guys cut 0awg i had to use a hack saw to cut 4awg and stainly knive to stip it
go to **** smith or something, they have "wire cutters" that have curved blades... these find it hard to cut through the cable, but 2 tries and you are through 0ga... one go for 4ga
Aaron
Aaron
Looks like 16 gauge for speaker wires for me. With my cabling from amp to batt/power etc what gauge should i use? I'm running an Audison 6.420 and although i don't want overkill i want the cable to be a bit thicker than needed (better to be safe than sorry). I was thinking 8 gauge, will that be enough for that amp or should i go 4 gauge? I will be running 4 gauge wiring for my sub/sub amp.
what are all the amps you'll be using?
the VRx6.420 alone is rated at 470WRMS into 4ohm, all channels driven for your front stage. so it warrants 4~6awg by itself.
so depending on the power of your subamp and any other amps you'll use, you could do with 4awg main power, but likely 2awg or 0awg, feeding to a DB then onto the amps. with 4awg to each amp.
later...
the VRx6.420 alone is rated at 470WRMS into 4ohm, all channels driven for your front stage. so it warrants 4~6awg by itself.
so depending on the power of your subamp and any other amps you'll use, you could do with 4awg main power, but likely 2awg or 0awg, feeding to a DB then onto the amps. with 4awg to each amp.
later...
Front stage: Audison VRx 6.420
Sub: Alpine MRV-1507
[ January 04, 2003, 16:06: Message edited by: vti-2 ]
Sub: Alpine MRV-1507
[ January 04, 2003, 16:06: Message edited by: vti-2 ]
ah ok, sweet. that'll be a lot of power on tap: 470 (@ 13.8V) and ~900WRMS (@ 14.4V).
but of course it depends how the gains are set, and when listening to music, you'll use less than half that most of the time.
i'd recommend at least 2awg main powerwire feeding to a DB. then 4awg to each amp. the 1507 may not accept 4awg straight into its terminal, in which case you can use an adaptor:
stinger S48ADAPT: accepts 4awg, and has an 8awg post. street price is ~$12 a piece; you may want one for +ve and -ve wires.
i have some spare so let me know if you wanna have a look and see if they suit.
unfortunately 2awg wiring and terminals are tuff to find. jaycar offer them, but stinger doesn't, and i have a feeling you'd prefer something like stinger. which would leave only 4awg or 0awg.
4awg main powerwire, into a DB, and continuing as 4awg to the amps, would be ok. certainly for normal listening. but if you go on to crank it really, really hard, you may see a voltage drop to the amp terminals if the wire cannot deliver the necessary power. 0awg is expensive that's all.
[ January 04, 2003, 17:14: Message edited by: shiny_car ]
but of course it depends how the gains are set, and when listening to music, you'll use less than half that most of the time.
i'd recommend at least 2awg main powerwire feeding to a DB. then 4awg to each amp. the 1507 may not accept 4awg straight into its terminal, in which case you can use an adaptor:
stinger S48ADAPT: accepts 4awg, and has an 8awg post. street price is ~$12 a piece; you may want one for +ve and -ve wires.
i have some spare so let me know if you wanna have a look and see if they suit.
unfortunately 2awg wiring and terminals are tuff to find. jaycar offer them, but stinger doesn't, and i have a feeling you'd prefer something like stinger. which would leave only 4awg or 0awg.
4awg main powerwire, into a DB, and continuing as 4awg to the amps, would be ok. certainly for normal listening. but if you go on to crank it really, really hard, you may see a voltage drop to the amp terminals if the wire cannot deliver the necessary power. 0awg is expensive that's all.
[ January 04, 2003, 17:14: Message edited by: shiny_car ]
QUOTE
Originally posted by shiny_car:
unfortunately 2awg wiring and terminals are tuff to find. jaycar offer them, but stinger doesn't, and i have a feeling you'd prefer something like stinger. which would leave only 4awg or 0awg.
What other brands are available for 2awg powerwire? The only problem i see with getting cabling would be this powerwire as i will need 2awg as you said upto to the DB. unfortunately 2awg wiring and terminals are tuff to find. jaycar offer them, but stinger doesn't, and i have a feeling you'd prefer something like stinger. which would leave only 4awg or 0awg.
QUOTE
Originally posted by shiny_car:
0awg is expensive that's all.
Not to mention overkill for my system.
0awg is expensive that's all.
jaycar, and i believe aerpro (which offers nicer looking clear-jacket wire) offer 2awg. aerpro may have to be ordered in by most places, like jb hifi.
terminals may be more difficult to source. whilst i haven't tried, i presume you can get a safe and solid fix into 0awg terminals from stinger and others.
terminals may be more difficult to source. whilst i haven't tried, i presume you can get a safe and solid fix into 0awg terminals from stinger and others.
If your running a battery from the rear, 4awg power cables to your amps is more then enough.
I would recommend a minimum of 2awg from your front battery to your rear battery to prevent loss in power. Also run a ground from the front to rear too, and ground the rear battery.
Remember grounding is very important.
subs cabling 12awg is max you'll need as it's also only a short distance from the amp.
Keep your power cables together and away from your speaker/RCA cables!!!!!
I would recommend a minimum of 2awg from your front battery to your rear battery to prevent loss in power. Also run a ground from the front to rear too, and ground the rear battery.
Remember grounding is very important.
subs cabling 12awg is max you'll need as it's also only a short distance from the amp.
Keep your power cables together and away from your speaker/RCA cables!!!!!
Why would you run a ground from front to back?
I thought that you wanted to make the ground as short as possible and equal in wire size to your power.
Alvin
I thought that you wanted to make the ground as short as possible and equal in wire size to your power.
Alvin
QUOTE
Originally posted by Stryker:
If your running a battery from the rear, 4awg power cables to your amps is more then enough.
oh yeah, i forgot you were considering a separate rear battery. in which case, i agree, 4awg is all you need if the powerwires are only a couple metres long. so even 4awg into a DB, splitting into more 4awg, say using a stinger "T"-DB.If your running a battery from the rear, 4awg power cables to your amps is more then enough.
i return-ground between batteries may not be necessary. however, i've had no experience with a dual battery setup, so cannot reliably comment.
I am definitely running a rear battery, so 4awg from battery to amps it is.
Return ground is an interesting one but i take Stryker's advice on board because he has run dual battery systems before. I've just gotta find decent 2awg power cable.
Return ground is an interesting one but i take Stryker's advice on board because he has run dual battery systems before. I've just gotta find decent 2awg power cable.
Think about a return -ve wire in terms of performance.
Example.
Even electrical component of your car requires lots of good grounding. If you are really into High performance you will know that the standard grounding wires arn't enough for the engine. With additional grounding, esp coming from the battery you can gain 1-2kw more...
Also, would you use grounding from a contaminated source or the pure source???
Oh vti-2, you should also install an isolator in your car. So while your car is off, you only use the rear battery. I have had countless times where I ran out of power playing my audio system while the car is off, and then not having anything left to start the car. 2 High power amps will drain any battery system quickly.
And again, make sure your charging system can cope with the drain your system is taking. Your stock alternator will die quickly and generally, honda alternators are weak. Even with a high output alternator, if it's only producing stock current at idle you'll still face problems.
Example.
Even electrical component of your car requires lots of good grounding. If you are really into High performance you will know that the standard grounding wires arn't enough for the engine. With additional grounding, esp coming from the battery you can gain 1-2kw more...
Also, would you use grounding from a contaminated source or the pure source???
Oh vti-2, you should also install an isolator in your car. So while your car is off, you only use the rear battery. I have had countless times where I ran out of power playing my audio system while the car is off, and then not having anything left to start the car. 2 High power amps will drain any battery system quickly.
And again, make sure your charging system can cope with the drain your system is taking. Your stock alternator will die quickly and generally, honda alternators are weak. Even with a high output alternator, if it's only producing stock current at idle you'll still face problems.
QUOTE
If you are really into High performance you will know that the standard grounding wires arn't enough for the engine. With additional grounding, esp coming from the battery you can gain 1-2kw more...
thats rather debatable. you'll find thats greatly dependent on what kind of car it is.and it's grounding from the engine to the chassis, or even engine to negative terminal that is important in that case.
my car, for example, has cable almost as thick as my thumb as the earth strap.
not that i'm not going to try redoing it.
it's kind of like arguing that dacron fibrefill makes a difference in sealed sub boxes. some will swear black and blue that it works, and others will denounce it at fallacy just as defiantly.
but i'm getting off topic.
this is kind of a question wrapped in a reply:
is there any reason you cant use say, multiple 4awg cables if u cant find any 2awg?
i mean, it would have to be cheaper than running 0awg wouldn't it? might get a bit messy tho...
QUOTE
Originally posted by Stryker:
you should also install an isolator in your car. So while your car is off, you only use the rear battery.
Yep, that is part of the plan... you should also install an isolator in your car. So while your car is off, you only use the rear battery.
And the alternator will definitely have to be upgraded. That is the next big upgrade once the stereo is done.
QUOTE
Originally posted by Sathid:
is there any reason you cant use say, multiple 4awg cables if u cant find any 2awg?
i mean, it would have to be cheaper than running 0awg wouldn't it? might get a bit messy tho...
I probably could but as you mentioned it can get messy and won't look as good. Don't worry, i'm sure i can source some 2awg from somewhere. is there any reason you cant use say, multiple 4awg cables if u cant find any 2awg?
i mean, it would have to be cheaper than running 0awg wouldn't it? might get a bit messy tho...
Jaycar have 2awg power cables....
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.