I'm investing some decent equipment in my new install and I wanna know what people think about sound deadening

Project #1 will be to sound deaden the **** out of the doors, now, I don't mind spending the $$ to get good results but at the same time, I don't wanna have to spend more than I have to. I don't necessarily believe that you have to buy brand names to get results but I do believe you get what you pay for.

With that said, the legendary guy who will be helping me with the finer points of the install works for Bourbon!


Anyways, back on topic - what I want to know is, is stuff like flashtac any good? Who has had experience with what deadener and what are the results?

I wanna hear from everyone who has used any form of sound deadener and I wanna know what you think. Especially installers who have been subject to the financial limitations of customers and so probably would have used everything under the sun.

Let me know ladies and gents

CHeers

Aaron

I have used Flashtak, Stinger Roadkill and the Jaycar stuff. Out of these three Stinger buy far sticks the best followed buy Jaycar and last Flashtak. The Roadkill stuff I used cost around $85 and was not enough to cover one door. Jaycar is $22 per 60cm x 60cm ( It comes as 2 sheets - 30cm x 30cm)The Flashtak was cheapest @ $26 for 10m x10cm. I rekon the Flashtak is prolly the same stuff as the Jaycar. I ended up buying alot of Flashtak and sound deadener paint from Supercheap (to act as a glue) 2 layers of Fashtak with the "glue" Is heaps and goes a long way. 2 layers would easily rivil the Roadkill.
In my opion anyway.

flashtac is great, cheap and does a good job if you use two layers. it sticks fine in my experience, clean the surface first, and press the sheet down firmly getting out all air bubbles, to ensure it is properly stuck on (i use the back of a screwdriver to roll over it and push it down).

a little secret about sound deadening - most of the rattles you hear are not the panels themselves - they are the little parts attached to them, like lock rods, switches, clips, cables, glass, reflector housings, winder assemblies etc etc. thsoe things must still be able to move, yet you dont want them to rattle - therein lies your challenge (hint: test tone cd, foam strips and lots of blue tac )

serenity max is the best value for money IMO, it sticks eraly well, and is equivalent to dynamat exrteme, for much much less...
i've used over 15 square metres of the stuff in my car, maybe as much as 20 square metres, i've lost count.

whatever you do, preparation (cleaning, etc.) is the key to good sound deadening,
if the product that you chose is inferior, you can always just use more, but if the surfaces aren't prepared correctly, it won't matter what you use.

yeah, G-spot serenity max is the best value stuff i've used (serenity max, dynamat xtreme, brownbread, flashtac).

dynamat xtreme is easier to apply and probably a bit better, but more expensive.

aside from SDing, ensure you seal off the big service holes too, and mount the speakers very securely without leaks around the edges. i used 3mm mdf to seal the doors (painted in undercoat to protect against moisture) covered in a layer of SDer. also used self-adhesive 'closed-cell' foam rubber stripping (eg: from clark rubber) to act as a seal/gasket between the mdf and door and around the speaker/pods.



G-spot paint is useful for crevices and to cover the door lock rods, etc.

good luck

Is having a foam thing acting as a gasket necessary? Does it make a difference in helping the door panels from rattling and vibrating?

dynamat extreme is the best **** so easy to apply!
That said, I sound deadened my boot and the ****er dont rattle no more good effort for a commodore i rekon

nah, it's not to stop rattles, but to ensure the door is nicely sealed. it's difficult to get mdf panels to fit snuggly against the metal frame without some gaps, so the foam rubber blocks those gaps.