I have just purchased a new Corolla Levin hatch to which I will be upgrading the stock system straight away.
I have selected the following system as a 'starting point'.
Nakamichi CD45Z HU or Blaupunkt Orlando Cd72
Boston FS60 Front Splits
Boston FX6 Rears
Alpine MRP-F320 AMP
Boston 8" Sub + Box (not sure of model)
Total budget is around $3,000. I am unsure as to wether or not I want to install a sub (need to have access to boot area) as my priority is on sound quality - not thumping loud base.
Would appreciate your thoughts on this combination and any other suggestions you may have with regards to the need for a sub and choice of head unit.
I am happy to sacrifice the sub in favour of better speakers that may offer more base.
Thanks in advance
Full Version: help with choice of complete new system
I mightn't be an expert on SQ like Shiny, but I've spent enough time on the forum to develop a bit of an idea on what's going on.
A subwoofer to seem people can be a necessary evil, as to produce the full frequency band a sub is needed as most speakers will definately have troubles reproducing low frequency sounds.
A subwoofer, is also often mistaken for just being "thumping loud bass" but in a true SQ system the bass will blend with the rest of the system.
A typical sub then consumes boot space, because of the associated box. Often, then, people choose to use 6X9's, or a straight woofer (or two) in the parcel shelf which are low passed, so as not to drag the sound image to the back of the car as much. The other option that is often presented is the use of a free air sub in the parcel shelf. In particular, the Hertz "Space" range is often mentioned as they're specifically designed to fit into a very small space ie midbass in the doors. These from what I've heard are a very high quality 8" woofer, & are described as a "Free-air subwoofer". These because of their size would give you some bass, but not extend down into your boot room.
So really the options that you're presented with are:
1. Find a sub that will sound smooth in as small a box as possible (probably looking at a 10" that will fit in a tiny box, to accurately cover lower frequencys as well).
2. Put low passed 6X9s or just plain woofers in the parcel shelf (may need spacers as I'm sure you dont wanna cut up your brand new car)
3. Find a free air sub (for this, the parcel shelf will have to fit very snug to make sure the boot is sealed, no leaks allowed, & once again, I dont know if you'd wanna cut up your parcel shelf, could always fabricate one from mdf & fibregalss).
The rest of your sound systems components look pretty good, just make sure the reap the benefits to be had with a proper install too, ie sound deadening, angling the speakers for proper imaging, etc...etc... I'm pretty sure it was someone around here that said "Sound Quality is 30% equipment 70% install" or something to that effect
A subwoofer to seem people can be a necessary evil, as to produce the full frequency band a sub is needed as most speakers will definately have troubles reproducing low frequency sounds.
A subwoofer, is also often mistaken for just being "thumping loud bass" but in a true SQ system the bass will blend with the rest of the system.
A typical sub then consumes boot space, because of the associated box. Often, then, people choose to use 6X9's, or a straight woofer (or two) in the parcel shelf which are low passed, so as not to drag the sound image to the back of the car as much. The other option that is often presented is the use of a free air sub in the parcel shelf. In particular, the Hertz "Space" range is often mentioned as they're specifically designed to fit into a very small space ie midbass in the doors. These from what I've heard are a very high quality 8" woofer, & are described as a "Free-air subwoofer". These because of their size would give you some bass, but not extend down into your boot room.
So really the options that you're presented with are:
1. Find a sub that will sound smooth in as small a box as possible (probably looking at a 10" that will fit in a tiny box, to accurately cover lower frequencys as well).
2. Put low passed 6X9s or just plain woofers in the parcel shelf (may need spacers as I'm sure you dont wanna cut up your brand new car)
3. Find a free air sub (for this, the parcel shelf will have to fit very snug to make sure the boot is sealed, no leaks allowed, & once again, I dont know if you'd wanna cut up your parcel shelf, could always fabricate one from mdf & fibregalss).
The rest of your sound systems components look pretty good, just make sure the reap the benefits to be had with a proper install too, ie sound deadening, angling the speakers for proper imaging, etc...etc... I'm pretty sure it was someone around here that said "Sound Quality is 30% equipment 70% install" or something to that effect
QUOTE
Big_B
"Space" range is often mentioned as they're specifically designed to fit into a very small space ie midbass in the doors. These from what I've heard are a very high quality 8" woofer, & are described as a "Free-air subwoofer". These because of their size would give you some bass, but not extend down into your boot room
Sorry Big_B"Space" range is often mentioned as they're specifically designed to fit into a very small space ie midbass in the doors. These from what I've heard are a very high quality 8" woofer, & are described as a "Free-air subwoofer". These because of their size would give you some bass, but not extend down into your boot room
SPACE 6 & SPACE 8 have never been marketed, or described as a "Sub Woofer" or "Free Air Subwoofer" in any literature that either the factory or RM Audio have produced, you got this one totaly wrong.
I guess you are confused with the "AIR MILLE SUBWOOFER"
AIR MILLE SUB WOOFER.
SPACE 6 & 8 WOOFERS
Space series are an exceptional quality woofer used in SQ systems and this year won the EISA award.
Prices reflect their quality, at $679 for the 6" and $880 for the 8"
Hope this clarifies everything.
The system you outlined looks good by the way.
Personally, Go the Blau over the Naka, I had a 45Z and whilst the SQ was good, reliability was poor.
As you are getting some good speakers perhaps look at a better amp, maybe a PG or Audison?
Phil K
That's certainly a healthy budget you have there.
Headunit - having listened to the Nakamichi unit before, I can vouch that it sounds great with CD's, but the Blaupunkt might have better radio reception and, as Phil said, reliability. Anyhoo, although there are differences in SQ between headunits, the difference is marginal compared to, say, the difference between speakers. A factor to consider, then, would be cosmetics (yeah, that sounds pretty superficial, but it does count!). Try looking into other brands for the right combination of features, looks, reliability (reputation and warranty), and of course sound quality.
Speakers - although the FS series are great sounding speakers for their price (my brother and I compared them quite extensively to other speakers that were a fair bit more expensive), at $550RRP for the FS60 and FX6, I would forego the rear speakers and invest more in your front stage. Also, you could perhaps chop a bit off your head-unit budget and invest in even better speakers, but this is up to you. Audition as many speakers as you can with music that you like, and even better, audition them in a car.
Sub - in home audio, there is often no need at all for a sub, but you'd be hard-pressed in a car to achieve a balanced sound without a sub; in the automotive environment, you have to battle engine noise, road noise, and all that. If you don't need to listen to your music very loudly, an 8" sub might be sifficient, but i'm sure there are many 10" subs out there that are designed for small enclosures (I haven't checked lately). I'd go for a 10".
Amp - like Phil said, it is probably a good idea to consider better amp(s) than the V-power (not that they're necessarily bad). Also, instead of going for a 5 channel amp, you will probably get better results with a separate 2 channel amp for your front stage plus a monobloc (or even a bridged 2 channel amp) for your sub. If you don't want the hassles of extra wiring, get a 3 channel, or a 4 channel and bridge 2 of the channels to run the sub. If you must have rear speakers, you can run em off your headunit.
Installation - this will make or break your system. If you are not confident that you can install your gear and extract all of their potential, think about getting it done professionally, and budget accordingly! Don't skimp here!!!
*Phew* Apologies for rambling on. If you want suggestions for brands and particular models and the like, there are heaps of people here who can help you out. Just let us know your exact needs. Have fun!
[ January 19, 2003, 14:34: Message edited by: r2dwee2 ]
Headunit - having listened to the Nakamichi unit before, I can vouch that it sounds great with CD's, but the Blaupunkt might have better radio reception and, as Phil said, reliability. Anyhoo, although there are differences in SQ between headunits, the difference is marginal compared to, say, the difference between speakers. A factor to consider, then, would be cosmetics (yeah, that sounds pretty superficial, but it does count!). Try looking into other brands for the right combination of features, looks, reliability (reputation and warranty), and of course sound quality.
Speakers - although the FS series are great sounding speakers for their price (my brother and I compared them quite extensively to other speakers that were a fair bit more expensive), at $550RRP for the FS60 and FX6, I would forego the rear speakers and invest more in your front stage. Also, you could perhaps chop a bit off your head-unit budget and invest in even better speakers, but this is up to you. Audition as many speakers as you can with music that you like, and even better, audition them in a car.
Sub - in home audio, there is often no need at all for a sub, but you'd be hard-pressed in a car to achieve a balanced sound without a sub; in the automotive environment, you have to battle engine noise, road noise, and all that. If you don't need to listen to your music very loudly, an 8" sub might be sifficient, but i'm sure there are many 10" subs out there that are designed for small enclosures (I haven't checked lately). I'd go for a 10".
Amp - like Phil said, it is probably a good idea to consider better amp(s) than the V-power (not that they're necessarily bad). Also, instead of going for a 5 channel amp, you will probably get better results with a separate 2 channel amp for your front stage plus a monobloc (or even a bridged 2 channel amp) for your sub. If you don't want the hassles of extra wiring, get a 3 channel, or a 4 channel and bridge 2 of the channels to run the sub. If you must have rear speakers, you can run em off your headunit.
Installation - this will make or break your system. If you are not confident that you can install your gear and extract all of their potential, think about getting it done professionally, and budget accordingly! Don't skimp here!!!
*Phew* Apologies for rambling on. If you want suggestions for brands and particular models and the like, there are heaps of people here who can help you out. Just let us know your exact needs. Have fun!
[ January 19, 2003, 14:34: Message edited by: r2dwee2 ]
Sorry Phil, I think I read in another post where someone used one of the Space woofers as a sub. I'd assume their normal purpose would be as a midbass driver in the door.
Although, why does it mention on the Hertz web site:
"SPACE 8 is also a very good free air subwoofer, to be used in the rear deck; you can employ two or more, achieving very small dimensions, weights and wide, very quick, clear bass."
Thanks for correcting me anyway, I actually love it when people correct me, it helps me learn.
[ January 19, 2003, 16:30: Message edited by: Big_B ]
Although, why does it mention on the Hertz web site:
"SPACE 8 is also a very good free air subwoofer, to be used in the rear deck; you can employ two or more, achieving very small dimensions, weights and wide, very quick, clear bass."
Thanks for correcting me anyway, I actually love it when people correct me, it helps me learn.
[ January 19, 2003, 16:30: Message edited by: Big_B ]
Just got back from a day out with the kids and was delighted to see your responses posted.
You have at least clarified the need for a sub. The parcel shelf in the new Corolla is this hybrid number which is part shelf and part cloth material so I do not have any flexibility to use 6x9's or seperate woofers. I also do not want to cut up the car so I will proceed with a small sub in the boot.
I auditioned the Boston speakers against others costing a lot more and actually preferred their somewhat coloured sound with the type of music I listen to (indie bands including everything from The Pixies through to Radiohead + lots of 80's).
Having spent my days at uni working at Jaycar, I have had a lot of experience with home speaker design and their components so I know the benefits of running a correctly tuned sub. In fact, I remember explaining to my friends the whole concept of a subwoofer back in 1988 when they where amazed at how my little bookshelf speakers sounded so great!!! And yes I do have a house full of Vifa powered speakers to this date
This said (and apologies for babling on a bit), I will settle for the current speaker set up and revue my options for head unit and amp.
What initially appealed to me about the Nakamichi is it's lack of flashing lights and the fact that it uses an analogue volume control!
This said, would I be doing myself any injustice by substituting it whith a Blaupunct header and in dash changer?
What else would you recommend given that I do not have any aliegence to any brand - just want a plain looking unit that will not flash at me like I was in a disco?
Also, I am having one of the 'upmarket' stores doing the installation so I will trust that they will do a good job. I did ask about sound deadening but was told that it will not be required. Should I push on having this done?
What other questions should I be asking?
Thank you all again for your help.
You have at least clarified the need for a sub. The parcel shelf in the new Corolla is this hybrid number which is part shelf and part cloth material so I do not have any flexibility to use 6x9's or seperate woofers. I also do not want to cut up the car so I will proceed with a small sub in the boot.
I auditioned the Boston speakers against others costing a lot more and actually preferred their somewhat coloured sound with the type of music I listen to (indie bands including everything from The Pixies through to Radiohead + lots of 80's).
Having spent my days at uni working at Jaycar, I have had a lot of experience with home speaker design and their components so I know the benefits of running a correctly tuned sub. In fact, I remember explaining to my friends the whole concept of a subwoofer back in 1988 when they where amazed at how my little bookshelf speakers sounded so great!!! And yes I do have a house full of Vifa powered speakers to this date
This said (and apologies for babling on a bit), I will settle for the current speaker set up and revue my options for head unit and amp.
What initially appealed to me about the Nakamichi is it's lack of flashing lights and the fact that it uses an analogue volume control!
This said, would I be doing myself any injustice by substituting it whith a Blaupunct header and in dash changer?
What else would you recommend given that I do not have any aliegence to any brand - just want a plain looking unit that will not flash at me like I was in a disco?
Also, I am having one of the 'upmarket' stores doing the installation so I will trust that they will do a good job. I did ask about sound deadening but was told that it will not be required. Should I push on having this done?
What other questions should I be asking?
Thank you all again for your help.
Personally, after using the nak, and being one of the one's who have had *no* problems (touch wood) i think it's an awesome unit.... radio reception is so-so, in poor area's, it's poor.... however, the clarity you get on the radio with it, is amazing.... sounds NOTHING like my clarion at all (clarion is dull and lifeless) the Nak doesn't have all the bells and whistles, and definately "hides" in the dash, so if stealth you are after, then it's the pick for sure... I don't mind boston's, however, look at some other brands (Dynaudio, A/D/S, higher end bostons, DLS (if you can find someone who stocks them) ,etc) and have a long hard listen.... I like my dyn audio tweeters with rock/indie because they don't fatigue you at all, like, i can listen for ages without getting a headache
Aaron
Aaron
I agree the nakamichi sounds great - also think about the eclipse decks (they aren't too showy - just efficient) pretty good sound quality too
I like your speaker choices but agree with the others in maybe a better amp - also what about some form of removable bass tube (like the old bazookas) something you can unplug when you want the boot space - if you're after subbass for realism instead of thumpy thumpy stuff an 8" bandpass tube should complete the frequency range.
I like your speaker choices but agree with the others in maybe a better amp - also what about some form of removable bass tube (like the old bazookas) something you can unplug when you want the boot space - if you're after subbass for realism instead of thumpy thumpy stuff an 8" bandpass tube should complete the frequency range.
Funny you mentioned the bass tube. I originally asked about spare tyre subs much like the one that BOSE put into the new Mazda6 Luxury Sport. I have been told that this type of sub is useless. If anyone thinks otherwise and knows who else makes these then let me know?
Otherwise, I will install a 10" Boston sub in a small(ish) enclosure that can easily be removed when needed.
Did some more research on the Nakimichi and the only questions raised about reliabilty are specific to their in dash header with 5 disc changer built in. Again, happy to hear if you think otherwise as I do not want to let go of 1K+ on a unit that is prone to breaking down.
Can I also ask your thoughts on MP3 headers re sound quality?
Thanks
Otherwise, I will install a 10" Boston sub in a small(ish) enclosure that can easily be removed when needed.
Did some more research on the Nakimichi and the only questions raised about reliabilty are specific to their in dash header with 5 disc changer built in. Again, happy to hear if you think otherwise as I do not want to let go of 1K+ on a unit that is prone to breaking down.
Can I also ask your thoughts on MP3 headers re sound quality?
Thanks
QUOTE
Originally posted by paddy9000:
Can I also ask your thoughts on MP3 headers re sound quality?
I remember arguing a while back there was no difference between a good quality mp3 and original cd's when my setup in my last car was a little "meagre", after my latest install i went out next day and spent 500 bucks on new CD's.. i think that sums it up
Can I also ask your thoughts on MP3 headers re sound quality?
I totally agree that, while the Boston FS speakers aren't exactly neutral sounding, the sound they produce is certainly enjoyable. It seems that colouration and good sound are not mutually exclusive! However, the Bostons do *not* sound like Vifa speakers, and the in-car environment can often (though not always, of course) accentuate the forward and somewhat in-your-face sound of speakers like the Bostons. This effect may render the sound unlistenable for extended periods, which is certainly the case with my brother's Boston FS speakers when playing music that I like; while they are fine for his RnB and dance tastes, the sound becomes fatiguing with rock and alternative music. With my Dynaudio's, I can listen to Thom York singing Paranoid Android all day, no probs! DLS speakers produce a sound that is similar to that of the Dynaudio's, although I found them ever so slightly more forward sounding and a little less "fluid" than the Dyn's. I have also heard good things about Morel and Hertz.
I too am partial to the understated class of Nakamichi's head units. And, while I don't think the volume control is actually analogue, the rotary nob certainly makes for easier operation. I'm pretty sure the Blau headunit has a rotary control as well? Anyhoo, I wouldn't be *too* discouraged about the Nakamichi ... have a chat to your dealer about their experiences and your options should any problems arise. As someone else said, Eclipse head units are well worth consideration, and the Eclipse CD5441 retails for the same price as the CD45Z. I can't think of any other head units in the price range that look "plain".
Regarding amps, ask Phil Kent about Audison, or Cyberpunky about Phoenix Gold, or anything else that they recommend in your price range ... alternatively, in keeping with the Boston Acoustics theme, try contacting HiFi & Video Marketing - (02)93196877 - about Boston amps (I don't know anything about their amps).
Sound deadening is a good thing. But, since the store told you that this will not be required (which, by the way, is probably an indication that it's a good store, since they're not pushing to sell you something you might not need), I would wait and see after your system has been installed if there are any niggling rattles or an inexplicable lack of bass or intrusive road noise or anything else that need be eliminated by means of sound deadening. Ideally, if your funds allow, then it's best to have sound deadening applied whilst your car has been dismantled for installation of everything else, but hey, that's life.
Given your objective is to achieve good SQ, I wouldn't touch MP3s (good for convenience, but it'll just make things more complicated) nor bass tubes with a ten foot pole. Which model Boston sub are you considering? The Pro series is fairly expensive at $550 for the ten incher, so if this is out of your price range, Albert's over here in Perth have an Infinity Beta 10 going for $199. This sub is somewhat similar to the Boston, it only requires a teeny box, is built like a tank (well, kinda), looks pretty nice, and sounds great! My guess is that the Infinity will be superior to the $279 Boston Generator 10". Other subs like Alpine's Type R's are also quite popular, but I'm a bit of an elitist (argh!) and prefer the more obscure products.
So, considering what you've told us so far, here's how I would break up the budget:
[Headunit] Eclipse CD5441 or Nakamichi CD45z ... $999.00RRP
[Front speakers] Boston Acoustics RC620 ... $549.00RRP (I'm sure you can get a better deal on your HU and speakers)
[Sub] Infinity Beta 10 ... $199.00 on special
[Amp] Ask Phil or Cyber or anyone else ... about $800-$1000 seems pretty healthy? EDIT: The Audison SRx3 would kick ass at $780.00 from the web store. (SRx Special Line Specs)
... And the rest of your budget towards installation! Voila!
[ January 20, 2003, 01:01: Message edited by: r2dwee2 ]
I too am partial to the understated class of Nakamichi's head units. And, while I don't think the volume control is actually analogue, the rotary nob certainly makes for easier operation. I'm pretty sure the Blau headunit has a rotary control as well? Anyhoo, I wouldn't be *too* discouraged about the Nakamichi ... have a chat to your dealer about their experiences and your options should any problems arise. As someone else said, Eclipse head units are well worth consideration, and the Eclipse CD5441 retails for the same price as the CD45Z. I can't think of any other head units in the price range that look "plain".
Regarding amps, ask Phil Kent about Audison, or Cyberpunky about Phoenix Gold, or anything else that they recommend in your price range ... alternatively, in keeping with the Boston Acoustics theme, try contacting HiFi & Video Marketing - (02)93196877 - about Boston amps (I don't know anything about their amps).
Sound deadening is a good thing. But, since the store told you that this will not be required (which, by the way, is probably an indication that it's a good store, since they're not pushing to sell you something you might not need), I would wait and see after your system has been installed if there are any niggling rattles or an inexplicable lack of bass or intrusive road noise or anything else that need be eliminated by means of sound deadening. Ideally, if your funds allow, then it's best to have sound deadening applied whilst your car has been dismantled for installation of everything else, but hey, that's life.
Given your objective is to achieve good SQ, I wouldn't touch MP3s (good for convenience, but it'll just make things more complicated) nor bass tubes with a ten foot pole. Which model Boston sub are you considering? The Pro series is fairly expensive at $550 for the ten incher, so if this is out of your price range, Albert's over here in Perth have an Infinity Beta 10 going for $199. This sub is somewhat similar to the Boston, it only requires a teeny box, is built like a tank (well, kinda), looks pretty nice, and sounds great! My guess is that the Infinity will be superior to the $279 Boston Generator 10". Other subs like Alpine's Type R's are also quite popular, but I'm a bit of an elitist (argh!) and prefer the more obscure products.
So, considering what you've told us so far, here's how I would break up the budget:
[Headunit] Eclipse CD5441 or Nakamichi CD45z ... $999.00RRP
[Front speakers] Boston Acoustics RC620 ... $549.00RRP (I'm sure you can get a better deal on your HU and speakers)
[Sub] Infinity Beta 10 ... $199.00 on special
[Amp] Ask Phil or Cyber or anyone else ... about $800-$1000 seems pretty healthy? EDIT: The Audison SRx3 would kick ass at $780.00 from the web store. (SRx Special Line Specs)
... And the rest of your budget towards installation! Voila!
[ January 20, 2003, 01:01: Message edited by: r2dwee2 ]
as suggested before, i'd recommend you keep the factory speakers for the rear and spend a bit more on the splits. I am running FX6s for my rearfill now. they are ok, but that is about it. most of the time i run them almost completely faded out except when there is someone complaining in the back.
if you want to stick with bostons why not go from the fs60 to the rallys? i found them a lot nicer to listen to(especically when pushed) compared to the fs60s.
taking away the fx6 and upgrading to the rallys should probably end up round the same price in the end.
but i assumed you've already auditioned them and if you think they sound better just ignore me
if you want to stick with bostons why not go from the fs60 to the rallys? i found them a lot nicer to listen to(especically when pushed) compared to the fs60s.
taking away the fx6 and upgrading to the rallys should probably end up round the same price in the end.
but i assumed you've already auditioned them and if you think they sound better just ignore me
QUOTE
Originally posted by Big_B:
I mightn't be an expert on SQ like Shiny
hee,hee, i'm not sure what makes me an expert. i just have an opinion and post on CAA a lot! I mightn't be an expert on SQ like Shiny
i will reiterate a lot of the good advice thus far:
the nak HU is excellent. top SQ, and great value. its understated looks are a good thing IMO, and will make a great source for any system.
you general system design is good. $3K is a healthy budget.
most enthusiasts will suggest that the front splits are the most important component in any system, as they have the greatest impact on overall SQ. so definitely worth buying somethin you definitely like, and don't compromise if possible. boston make great splits, so if you like them, sweet.
i also agree with the suggestion to ditch the rears in favour of spending more on the fronts if there's something else you like.
yes, the V-power amps are not up to the quality of the rest of the system. maybe consider the V12 series, or the plethora of others available.
sub? go at least a 10", if not a good 12". 1cuft hopefully is not too much to ask? coz many good 12" subs suit such a small box without probs. and definitely a 10" will.
$3K...i'd probably divide the budget accordingly:
*HU: ~$900 nak
*splits: ~$800: boston pros, focal polykevlar 165K2, dls, AVI, etc
*amp: ~$700: hertz H420 (available from online store), coustic 481QE, cadence Z4000, audison SRx4 (online store)
*sub/subbox: $400: JL audio 10W3, alpine type-R 10"
that'd leave money for cabling/wiring and terminals. but i haven't factored in installation.
but a basic system like that, using high quality components, will sound excellent in a small car like the levin, with quality installation.
good luck
On top of all the great suggestions here I strongly believe in the benefits of a sound deadened vehicle...
I was amazed in listening to my existing stereo before and after performing extensive sound deadening... and that was in a 1983 Toyota Sprinter (Levin) so it's applicable to you.
I performed:
Bitumen painted on car floor
Sound deadening matting on the floors and inner door trims
Sound deadening spray on outer door trims and other interior panels
Expanding foam in all pillars and around wheel arches (messy!!)
Horsehair under carpet
Felt lining between plastic panels and metal car frame
The improvement in bass response was particularly noticable - much sharper and harder hitting.
For my next vehicle i'm budgeting almost $1000 for sound deadening alone - well worth it in my opinion...
good luck with the choices (always so difficult!)
I was amazed in listening to my existing stereo before and after performing extensive sound deadening... and that was in a 1983 Toyota Sprinter (Levin) so it's applicable to you.
I performed:
Bitumen painted on car floor
Sound deadening matting on the floors and inner door trims
Sound deadening spray on outer door trims and other interior panels
Expanding foam in all pillars and around wheel arches (messy!!)
Horsehair under carpet
Felt lining between plastic panels and metal car frame
The improvement in bass response was particularly noticable - much sharper and harder hitting.
For my next vehicle i'm budgeting almost $1000 for sound deadening alone - well worth it in my opinion...
good luck with the choices (always so difficult!)
Everyone's advice so far has been very helpful.
I will now look at (or listen to) the suggestions you have made and have a stab at another combination of gear.
I hopefully take delivery of the car this Wednesday and I want to have the system purchased and professionally installed by the weekend.
Will keep the post open for now as I will most likely revue my choices.
Thanks again.
I will now look at (or listen to) the suggestions you have made and have a stab at another combination of gear.
I hopefully take delivery of the car this Wednesday and I want to have the system purchased and professionally installed by the weekend.
Will keep the post open for now as I will most likely revue my choices.
Thanks again.
Have just come back from another visit to my local car audio store. Based on all of your recommendations and advice above, I have now revised my system as follows.
Eclipse 3421 HU (had more negative feedback re Nakamichi's reliability)
AVI EL160 + 20S - Front
AVI EL160 - Rears
Eclipse 4 Channel Amp (front&rear run in parallel and 2 channels bridged for sub)
AVI 10SS Sub + Enclosure
The AVI's clearly sounded much better than the Boston's (at a premium of course) and I was impressed with their clarity.
What has happened though is that my budget is now extending closer to $4,000.
Again, I need some help.
Does anyone see any flaws in the above design?
Given that the AVI's have a fuller sound than the Boston's with more noticeable bass, can I get away with not having the sub (no need for thumping bass)?
Can anyone recommend a different HU that is relatively plain to look at but with good SQ (like the CD45Z)other than the Eclipse?
The guy that owns the store was confident that this set up is much better than the previous one. Given the dollars I am now looking at spending, I want to ensure that it is done correctly first time.
Eclipse 3421 HU (had more negative feedback re Nakamichi's reliability)
AVI EL160 + 20S - Front
AVI EL160 - Rears
Eclipse 4 Channel Amp (front&rear run in parallel and 2 channels bridged for sub)
AVI 10SS Sub + Enclosure
The AVI's clearly sounded much better than the Boston's (at a premium of course) and I was impressed with their clarity.
What has happened though is that my budget is now extending closer to $4,000.
Again, I need some help.
Does anyone see any flaws in the above design?
Given that the AVI's have a fuller sound than the Boston's with more noticeable bass, can I get away with not having the sub (no need for thumping bass)?
Can anyone recommend a different HU that is relatively plain to look at but with good SQ (like the CD45Z)other than the Eclipse?
The guy that owns the store was confident that this set up is much better than the previous one. Given the dollars I am now looking at spending, I want to ensure that it is done correctly first time.
that looks good.
my only advice, is to ditch the rear speakers for a number of reasons:
*they are not required for a quality SQ setup where you rely on only the fronts and sub for your soundstage; rears will pull the soundstage rearwards in most cases, and are ideal only for rear passengers or multimedia
*you won't have fader control if the front and rears run off the same channels; this can pose major system balance problems, where in most cases, you would want the rears heavily faded (if you have them at all!)
*running the amp at 2ohm per channel will stress it that little bit more: it will run hotter and thoeretically lose SQ (usually insignificant)
you can otherwise run the rears off the HU and retain fading.
if you like the AVI's, great. i've heard good reports about them, although i have not auditioned them myself. i don't know what their subs are like, but there's heaps of quality subs out there as alternatives.
regarding the HU, nak and eclipse are probably your only options if you want a simple and classy HU. unless you want a silver one (and red backlighting), in which case consider the upper jvc models or rockford fosgate, both of which i think are nice looking, and also high quality:
jvc KD-SH707 RRP$899
RF:
good luck
my only advice, is to ditch the rear speakers for a number of reasons:
*they are not required for a quality SQ setup where you rely on only the fronts and sub for your soundstage; rears will pull the soundstage rearwards in most cases, and are ideal only for rear passengers or multimedia
*you won't have fader control if the front and rears run off the same channels; this can pose major system balance problems, where in most cases, you would want the rears heavily faded (if you have them at all!)
*running the amp at 2ohm per channel will stress it that little bit more: it will run hotter and thoeretically lose SQ (usually insignificant)
you can otherwise run the rears off the HU and retain fading.
if you like the AVI's, great. i've heard good reports about them, although i have not auditioned them myself. i don't know what their subs are like, but there's heaps of quality subs out there as alternatives.
regarding the HU, nak and eclipse are probably your only options if you want a simple and classy HU. unless you want a silver one (and red backlighting), in which case consider the upper jvc models or rockford fosgate, both of which i think are nice looking, and also high quality:
jvc KD-SH707 RRP$899
RF:
good luck
I reckon that system would be very nice indeed, but I agree with others here, you should definately forget about the rear speakers.
I have done several systems both with and without rear speakers, and the ones without the rears always turned out better value for money and often sounded superior.
Without the rears, you will free up more amp power for your front splits, and the amp will run cooler and more efficient.
I'm not sure what the rrp is on the AVI sub, but perhaps a different sub may bring down the total cost a bit??
I have done several systems both with and without rear speakers, and the ones without the rears always turned out better value for money and often sounded superior.
Without the rears, you will free up more amp power for your front splits, and the amp will run cooler and more efficient.
I'm not sure what the rrp is on the AVI sub, but perhaps a different sub may bring down the total cost a bit??
Shiny Car,
Thanks for your advice.
I originally considered using a cheaper sub. Will this compromise my setup?
I will also drop the rears from the set up and run a cheaper pair off the HU.
With respect to the head unit, what are your thoughts on the Blaupunkt orlando mated to an in dash stacker. I have had very mixed (extreme) views on the Blaupunkt gear. I had a complete system of theirs in the past which I was happy with. How would you rate the Blaupunkt in terms of SQ and reliability?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks for your advice.
I originally considered using a cheaper sub. Will this compromise my setup?
I will also drop the rears from the set up and run a cheaper pair off the HU.
With respect to the head unit, what are your thoughts on the Blaupunkt orlando mated to an in dash stacker. I have had very mixed (extreme) views on the Blaupunkt gear. I had a complete system of theirs in the past which I was happy with. How would you rate the Blaupunkt in terms of SQ and reliability?
Thanks in advance.
IMO, the blaupunkt skyline series (incl orlando) seem excellent. i have not used them, but features, looks, and technology appear high quality.
the only complaints seem to be related to 'skipping'. however, under what circumstances? i think most complaints arise from SPL dB drag comps where you are running subs fullbore with test tones. playing music at listening volumes would be very different, and i can't imagine for daily use that skipping would be an issue, esp if properly installed.
quality subbass relies on a good sub, a quality box (design and construction) and good subamp.
what particular eclipse amp were you considering...what power?
and what are the specs or power requirements for the AVI sub?
if the amp won't provide optimum power for the sub, then arguably you won't get the best from it. in which case, a cheaper sub may in fact perform equally as well coz it's operating nearer its best. hard to say.
roughly what's the breakdown in budget for the amp and sub?
the only complaints seem to be related to 'skipping'. however, under what circumstances? i think most complaints arise from SPL dB drag comps where you are running subs fullbore with test tones. playing music at listening volumes would be very different, and i can't imagine for daily use that skipping would be an issue, esp if properly installed.
quality subbass relies on a good sub, a quality box (design and construction) and good subamp.
what particular eclipse amp were you considering...what power?
and what are the specs or power requirements for the AVI sub?
if the amp won't provide optimum power for the sub, then arguably you won't get the best from it. in which case, a cheaper sub may in fact perform equally as well coz it's operating nearer its best. hard to say.
roughly what's the breakdown in budget for the amp and sub?
I will let you know the breakdown once I make sense of the quote :-)
Also, I checked out some of the links of CAA and came across the Becker Head Units. Would you reccomend these over the Eclipse or Blaupunkt?
Apologies for asking so many questions but I really want to make sure that I make the right decisions given that I am spending upwards of $3,500.
Appreciate all of your help.
Also, I checked out some of the links of CAA and came across the Becker Head Units. Would you reccomend these over the Eclipse or Blaupunkt?
Apologies for asking so many questions but I really want to make sure that I make the right decisions given that I am spending upwards of $3,500.
Appreciate all of your help.
becker is very high-end. i haven't heard any Members using one, or they haven't 'fessed up to owning a porsche or expensive merc or something.
i don't think they're top value, but then again, the high-end stuff never seems to be! but to the buyer, if quality is everything, then becker would be nice.
however, for your overall budget, i think you will get much better results spending much of the budget on the front splits, and less on other stuff like the HU. that is, a very expensive HU will bring little in the way of overall SQ compared with spending that money on better speakers. so i think a HU around $800~1K will be as good as you need (maybe becker have such a HU, but i didn't think so ).
[ January 20, 2003, 20:16: Message edited by: shiny_car ]
i don't think they're top value, but then again, the high-end stuff never seems to be! but to the buyer, if quality is everything, then becker would be nice.
however, for your overall budget, i think you will get much better results spending much of the budget on the front splits, and less on other stuff like the HU. that is, a very expensive HU will bring little in the way of overall SQ compared with spending that money on better speakers. so i think a HU around $800~1K will be as good as you need (maybe becker have such a HU, but i didn't think so ).
[ January 20, 2003, 20:16: Message edited by: shiny_car ]
I've heard some becker units that were factory in Porsche cars - seemed quite good for OE systems with basic 4 or 6 speaker setups (come to think of it I think my old 911 had a becker tape deck)
QUOTE
Originally posted by raziel:
I've heard some becker units that were factory in Porsche cars (come to think of it I think my old 911 had a becker tape deck)
now there's a timely confession.
I've heard some becker units that were factory in Porsche cars (come to think of it I think my old 911 had a becker tape deck)
shiny
if you saw the 911 It wouldn't be much of a confession - bought as a rollover to fix up as a "project" sold it for more than I paid for it though
now if only I had energy (read as $$$) to finish other "project" I have - 67 chev camaro
if you saw the 911 It wouldn't be much of a confession - bought as a rollover to fix up as a "project" sold it for more than I paid for it though
now if only I had energy (read as $$$) to finish other "project" I have - 67 chev camaro
Becker...you're kidding me! My dad put one in one of our Jags; this is going a few years back...i'd never heard of them! Can remember the deck though, now its spinning through my head more than ever! Sold the car now though...
Oh to be educated...
Oh to be educated...
Thanks so far for your help.
I have revised my system as follows.
Becker Solitude 2239 Head Unit
Becker 350 4 Channel Amp
Boston FS60 Front Splits
Boston FX6 Rears
(may change speakers to AVI's)
Just listened to the stock system that comes with the car and I am quite happy with the bass without a sub.
The only concern I have is that the HU&Amp interconnect via a proprietary cable so the HU does not have any RCA outputs.
If I was to add a sub later, I intend to run the fronts off 2 channels, the sub off the remaining two bridged, and the rears off the HU.
One rep said that this would be adequate while another said I am f****ing mad
Is this a silly thing to do? (remember that I am not after a loud system - just want something that sounds good)
If I decide to go with another amp later, will I compromise the set up by using high level converter in the absence of RCA outputs?
I have opted for the Becker for the same reason that I liked the Nakamichi - it is simple and does the job without displaying a light show! Have had too much negative feedback with the reliability of the Nak so have dropped that as an option.
I have revised my system as follows.
Becker Solitude 2239 Head Unit
Becker 350 4 Channel Amp
Boston FS60 Front Splits
Boston FX6 Rears
(may change speakers to AVI's)
Just listened to the stock system that comes with the car and I am quite happy with the bass without a sub.
The only concern I have is that the HU&Amp interconnect via a proprietary cable so the HU does not have any RCA outputs.
If I was to add a sub later, I intend to run the fronts off 2 channels, the sub off the remaining two bridged, and the rears off the HU.
One rep said that this would be adequate while another said I am f****ing mad
Is this a silly thing to do? (remember that I am not after a loud system - just want something that sounds good)
If I decide to go with another amp later, will I compromise the set up by using high level converter in the absence of RCA outputs?
I have opted for the Becker for the same reason that I liked the Nakamichi - it is simple and does the job without displaying a light show! Have had too much negative feedback with the reliability of the Nak so have dropped that as an option.
The Becker Solitude system is indeed very sophisticated, and by the same token quite complex!
The Energy 350 amplifier is quite a unique amp. The DSP (signal processing) power of this baby is pretty amazing, considering it has been around for a while (7 band graphic and 4 band parametric EQ, crossovers, bass management) ... It is bridgeable to produce 2x100W into a 4 Ohm load, although I am unsure about how the amp would be configured. I believe it accepts an optical input from the headunit for both control and audio signal, so whether or not you can run it in 3-channel mode to produce 2X30W plus 1X100W into a 4 Ohm load - I dunno! The best person to talk to would be the distributor for Becker in Oz, Soundlabs Group. Leon (leon@soundlabsgroup.com.au) is very helpful and always prompt to reply to emails.
But then again, 30W is not a great deal of power from which to run a front stage, and you may be found wanting for more headroom. On the other hand, it depends on how far you really want to go, since the Bostons aren't exceptionally power hungry. Thirty clean Watts *might* cut the mustard. Are you sure you'll be happy with the Boston FS speakers? Many people make the mistake of buying something, only to realise later that they want something better.
Does the headunit have built-in amps from which you can power your rears? If so, that'd be the way to go, although again, rears aren't really a necessity.
High-to-low level convertors are generally frowned upon, but this is probably due to the poor quality of those that do find their way into car audio. They aren't a bad thing, per se. For example, high-end home subwoofers manufactured by REL have the provision for high level inputs, and these subs are formidable! Eek, you've really opened a can of worms with this particular Becker system! At $1599 for the headunit and amp, you might be better off with other alternatives. In my honest opinion, a more conventional system may yield results that are just as good, and provide less heartache, both now and in the future.
But, have a chat to Leon about your options for expansion should you opt for the Becker system, and see what he thinks. Happy hunting!
The Energy 350 amplifier is quite a unique amp. The DSP (signal processing) power of this baby is pretty amazing, considering it has been around for a while (7 band graphic and 4 band parametric EQ, crossovers, bass management) ... It is bridgeable to produce 2x100W into a 4 Ohm load, although I am unsure about how the amp would be configured. I believe it accepts an optical input from the headunit for both control and audio signal, so whether or not you can run it in 3-channel mode to produce 2X30W plus 1X100W into a 4 Ohm load - I dunno! The best person to talk to would be the distributor for Becker in Oz, Soundlabs Group. Leon (leon@soundlabsgroup.com.au) is very helpful and always prompt to reply to emails.
But then again, 30W is not a great deal of power from which to run a front stage, and you may be found wanting for more headroom. On the other hand, it depends on how far you really want to go, since the Bostons aren't exceptionally power hungry. Thirty clean Watts *might* cut the mustard. Are you sure you'll be happy with the Boston FS speakers? Many people make the mistake of buying something, only to realise later that they want something better.
Does the headunit have built-in amps from which you can power your rears? If so, that'd be the way to go, although again, rears aren't really a necessity.
High-to-low level convertors are generally frowned upon, but this is probably due to the poor quality of those that do find their way into car audio. They aren't a bad thing, per se. For example, high-end home subwoofers manufactured by REL have the provision for high level inputs, and these subs are formidable! Eek, you've really opened a can of worms with this particular Becker system! At $1599 for the headunit and amp, you might be better off with other alternatives. In my honest opinion, a more conventional system may yield results that are just as good, and provide less heartache, both now and in the future.
But, have a chat to Leon about your options for expansion should you opt for the Becker system, and see what he thinks. Happy hunting!
r2dwee2
Thanks for your advice.
Your correct about the 350 Amp. It is a pretty unique thing in it's flexibility and the way it can be set up. The amp can be configured as 4,3, or 2 chanell which is done electronicaly either through the HU or via an RS232 interface and some pretty cool software.
No need to worry about the line level converter as the HU does have RCA outpouts (or so the manual says - checking the physical unit).
Spoke to Leon a couple of times today and he was extremely helpful without trying to do the hard sell. I have become somewhat annoyed with some of the dealers I have been speaking to in that they have such firm opinions (their way is the best/only way and it is going to cost me $5,000+).
I am going to proceed with the Becker set up of HU & Amp in either of the following combinations.
Option 1
Fronts driven by Amp in 2 ch config, rears driven by HU - no sub (currently prefered option as you have suggested)
Option 2
Front and Rears driven by Amp in 4 ch config - no sub
Option 3
Front + Sub driven driven by amp in 3 ch config
Rears driven by HU
I think that this can be a goer at least as a starting point. If I find I need more then I can add another amp later.
I think the key is in the becker amp delivering a clean 30Watts RMS a chanell.
One last question - who can I go to for installation if I have all of the hardware?
Those who I have spoken to already want to push their product only and do not welcome installation of gear sourced elswhere.
Thanks for your advice.
Your correct about the 350 Amp. It is a pretty unique thing in it's flexibility and the way it can be set up. The amp can be configured as 4,3, or 2 chanell which is done electronicaly either through the HU or via an RS232 interface and some pretty cool software.
No need to worry about the line level converter as the HU does have RCA outpouts (or so the manual says - checking the physical unit).
Spoke to Leon a couple of times today and he was extremely helpful without trying to do the hard sell. I have become somewhat annoyed with some of the dealers I have been speaking to in that they have such firm opinions (their way is the best/only way and it is going to cost me $5,000+).
I am going to proceed with the Becker set up of HU & Amp in either of the following combinations.
Option 1
Fronts driven by Amp in 2 ch config, rears driven by HU - no sub (currently prefered option as you have suggested)
Option 2
Front and Rears driven by Amp in 4 ch config - no sub
Option 3
Front + Sub driven driven by amp in 3 ch config
Rears driven by HU
I think that this can be a goer at least as a starting point. If I find I need more then I can add another amp later.
I think the key is in the becker amp delivering a clean 30Watts RMS a chanell.
One last question - who can I go to for installation if I have all of the hardware?
Those who I have spoken to already want to push their product only and do not welcome installation of gear sourced elswhere.
QUOTE
Originally posted by paddy9000:
The only concern I have is that the HU&Amp interconnect via a proprietary cable so the HU does not have any RCA outputs.
what exactly is the proprietory cable? you mean a becker cable?The only concern I have is that the HU&Amp interconnect via a proprietary cable so the HU does not have any RCA outputs.
in which case it's neither speakerwire hi-level or RCA (lo-level). and may in fact be superior again, by using a balanced-line setup.
i otherwise know nothing or little about becker, but expect it to be 'good' like any esoteric stuff. but it seems like it suits your needs perfectly.
in terms of installation, i'd be speaking with the distributor (leon) for a recommendation. best to have such equipment installed by an authorised dealer, who hopefully will take pride in the installation and do it professionally.
and i reiterate r2's suggestion to ensure the front splits are exactly what you're after. they can make or break the system, so buy wisely and take your time.
good luck
The interconnect between the HU & Amp is via a digital fibre optic loop.
Appreciate all the feedback you have given.
Will let you know how I go.
Appreciate all the feedback you have given.
Will let you know how I go.
Almost there!!!!
First and foremost, thank you to all those who have contributed to helping me through this process.
Your suggestions have helped refine my selection of new system to the following components.
Becker Solitude 2239 HU
Becker Energy 350 4ch Amp (4x30 'clean' watts)
Infinity 6513cs 6.5" 3-way component system (front)
Infinity 6512cs 6.5" 2-way component system (rears)
Infinity Kappa 8" Sub in sealed enclosure
Intended configuration will be to run the amp in a 3 channel mode supporting the front speakers and sub woofer. As suggested, I will run the rears off the HU.
I originally set out to install a system that sounds as good as the factory BOSE system in the new Mazda6 (Luxury spec).
I am confident that the above system will achieve this goal in the new Corolla Levin. If anyone has heard this system - please let me know if I am still off the mark?
If something looks obviously wrong in the above list, then let me know also?
Just need to wait for delivery of the car now
Thanks again.
First and foremost, thank you to all those who have contributed to helping me through this process.
Your suggestions have helped refine my selection of new system to the following components.
Becker Solitude 2239 HU
Becker Energy 350 4ch Amp (4x30 'clean' watts)
Infinity 6513cs 6.5" 3-way component system (front)
Infinity 6512cs 6.5" 2-way component system (rears)
Infinity Kappa 8" Sub in sealed enclosure
Intended configuration will be to run the amp in a 3 channel mode supporting the front speakers and sub woofer. As suggested, I will run the rears off the HU.
I originally set out to install a system that sounds as good as the factory BOSE system in the new Mazda6 (Luxury spec).
I am confident that the above system will achieve this goal in the new Corolla Levin. If anyone has heard this system - please let me know if I am still off the mark?
If something looks obviously wrong in the above list, then let me know also?
Just need to wait for delivery of the car now
Thanks again.
It's good to see you're making progress and finding the right equipment that suits you, instead of some salesman. I have a feeling you'll end up with a nice system.
It looks like you'll be getting your gear from Soundlabs, in which case you'll be saving a bundle with the clearance stock. With regards to installation, you'll need some input from CAA members who live in your area. Sorry I can't help here, d'oh!
Those Infinity speakers reputedly sound pretty good, so you'll be getting stonkin' great value for money! However, I've heard reports that the layers of the trilaminate cone are slightly prone to bubbling and peeling, especially in hot weather, so that's something to keep an eye on. In my experience, Infinity have always made efficient speakers, so you should be alright with power.
Also, if the sub that you're looking at is the Infinity 80w.ib, then it would be more suited to infinite baffle applications (eg. mounted to the rear shelf with a spacer and using the boot as an "enclosure" -- the shelf has to be effectively sealed off, though). Nonetheless, it probably wouldn't do *too* badly in a sealed enclosure of, say, 20L. Maybe even a ported enclosure. Someone like Bassaholic will be able to help here. Anyway, since they're only $79 a pop, why not go for two of them! The Becker amp is stable into 2 Ohms when bridged, so you won't have any problems there.
Here are the T/S parameters for the Infinity 80w.ib for anybody to play around with enclosure alignments to help out:
Qts 0.48
Vas 22.51 L
Fs 39.00 Hz
Re 3.1 Ohm
Le 0.72
Xmax 7.6 mm
Znom 4 Ohm
Qms 6.45
Qes 0.51
SPL 86 dB (1W/1m)
Pe 200 W
BL 7.90
dia 16.00 cm
Sd 200 cm^2
Let us know how everything goes!
EDIT: Just another quick point -- you'll have to pay pretty close attention to the installation of that 3-way front stage in order to get the most out of them. This will probably require some custom work.
[ January 22, 2003, 16:46: Message edited by: r2dwee2 ]
It looks like you'll be getting your gear from Soundlabs, in which case you'll be saving a bundle with the clearance stock. With regards to installation, you'll need some input from CAA members who live in your area. Sorry I can't help here, d'oh!
Those Infinity speakers reputedly sound pretty good, so you'll be getting stonkin' great value for money! However, I've heard reports that the layers of the trilaminate cone are slightly prone to bubbling and peeling, especially in hot weather, so that's something to keep an eye on. In my experience, Infinity have always made efficient speakers, so you should be alright with power.
Also, if the sub that you're looking at is the Infinity 80w.ib, then it would be more suited to infinite baffle applications (eg. mounted to the rear shelf with a spacer and using the boot as an "enclosure" -- the shelf has to be effectively sealed off, though). Nonetheless, it probably wouldn't do *too* badly in a sealed enclosure of, say, 20L. Maybe even a ported enclosure. Someone like Bassaholic will be able to help here. Anyway, since they're only $79 a pop, why not go for two of them! The Becker amp is stable into 2 Ohms when bridged, so you won't have any problems there.
Here are the T/S parameters for the Infinity 80w.ib for anybody to play around with enclosure alignments to help out:
Qts 0.48
Vas 22.51 L
Fs 39.00 Hz
Re 3.1 Ohm
Le 0.72
Xmax 7.6 mm
Znom 4 Ohm
Qms 6.45
Qes 0.51
SPL 86 dB (1W/1m)
Pe 200 W
BL 7.90
dia 16.00 cm
Sd 200 cm^2
Let us know how everything goes!
EDIT: Just another quick point -- you'll have to pay pretty close attention to the installation of that 3-way front stage in order to get the most out of them. This will probably require some custom work.
[ January 22, 2003, 16:46: Message edited by: r2dwee2 ]
Thanks for your advice.
I am not purchasing the Infinity 80w.ib which are designed for an infinite baffle installation.
The unit I purchased is one of the refernce series designed for a sealed enclosure. I will be buying this from one of the dealers in QLD and have them ship it down to me in a 14l enclosure which is nice and compact.
My new car is delayed at the wharfs - another bloody 48hr strike
Cheers
I am not purchasing the Infinity 80w.ib which are designed for an infinite baffle installation.
The unit I purchased is one of the refernce series designed for a sealed enclosure. I will be buying this from one of the dealers in QLD and have them ship it down to me in a 14l enclosure which is nice and compact.
My new car is delayed at the wharfs - another bloody 48hr strike
Cheers
i think you're gonna have a very sweet system there. get the installation right, and i'm sure it'll leave the bose setup for dead.
mind you, i've not heard that mazda's stereo, but extremely few stock systems come close to a high quality aftermarket setup. the lexus LS430 is apparently pretty good.
mind you, i've not heard that mazda's stereo, but extremely few stock systems come close to a high quality aftermarket setup. the lexus LS430 is apparently pretty good.
Thank you all for your help.
I have ordered all the gear and below is the final configuration.
Becker Solitude 2239 HU
Becker Energy 350 4ch Amp (4x60 watts RMS)
Infinity 6513cs 6.5" 3-way component system (front)
Infinity 512i 5.25" 2-way coaxial (rears)
Infinity Reference 8" Sub in sealed enclosure
BTW, I did make a mistake in an earlier post quoting the incorrect output of the AMP, it is in fact 60W RMSx4 NOT 30Wx4. Distortion figures are 0.08% @ full load so I am sure that it should be powerful enough to serve my needs.
The BOSE system in the Mazda6 literally blew me away in it's quality. I have also heard the system in the LS430 and it too is quite special. I will be keen to know if anyone else has heard the Mazda6 and how they rate it (will create a new post).
I hope to be bragging about how great the Corolla sounds once the above is installed
I have ordered all the gear and below is the final configuration.
Becker Solitude 2239 HU
Becker Energy 350 4ch Amp (4x60 watts RMS)
Infinity 6513cs 6.5" 3-way component system (front)
Infinity 512i 5.25" 2-way coaxial (rears)
Infinity Reference 8" Sub in sealed enclosure
BTW, I did make a mistake in an earlier post quoting the incorrect output of the AMP, it is in fact 60W RMSx4 NOT 30Wx4. Distortion figures are 0.08% @ full load so I am sure that it should be powerful enough to serve my needs.
The BOSE system in the Mazda6 literally blew me away in it's quality. I have also heard the system in the LS430 and it too is quite special. I will be keen to know if anyone else has heard the Mazda6 and how they rate it (will create a new post).
I hope to be bragging about how great the Corolla sounds once the above is installed
Again, thank you to all who have contributed their thoughts!
I finally pick up the car tomorrow and have already taken delivery of the audio gear
Now have in my possession the following kit:
Becker HU & 4ch Amp
Infinity 6513cs 6.5" 3 way splits
Infinity 6512cs 6.5" 2 way splits
Infinity 512i 5.25" coaxials
Infinity 8" reference sub in 14l enclosure
I have also read some other posts regarding installation so this is now my next big hurdle.
I have spoken to Tony @ Doran Audio who I will see tomorrow about arranging to have the system installed.
I would like some opinions on which way I should go up front - 3 way versus 2 way.
If I opt to just put the two ways in the front, I have a very basic install with everything pretty much fitting in the standard factory mounts. Apart from the expense, I gather that there is a lot more work involved in custom panels which also means having the car off the road for several days.
Can I ask everyone if you feel that I should go the extra lengths required to install the three way splits up front in lieu of the two ways?
I finally pick up the car tomorrow and have already taken delivery of the audio gear
Now have in my possession the following kit:
Becker HU & 4ch Amp
Infinity 6513cs 6.5" 3 way splits
Infinity 6512cs 6.5" 2 way splits
Infinity 512i 5.25" coaxials
Infinity 8" reference sub in 14l enclosure
I have also read some other posts regarding installation so this is now my next big hurdle.
I have spoken to Tony @ Doran Audio who I will see tomorrow about arranging to have the system installed.
I would like some opinions on which way I should go up front - 3 way versus 2 way.
If I opt to just put the two ways in the front, I have a very basic install with everything pretty much fitting in the standard factory mounts. Apart from the expense, I gather that there is a lot more work involved in custom panels which also means having the car off the road for several days.
Can I ask everyone if you feel that I should go the extra lengths required to install the three way splits up front in lieu of the two ways?
QUOTE
Originally posted by paddy9000:
I would like some opinions on which way I should go up front - 3 way versus 2 way.
what's wrong with DIY? I would like some opinions on which way I should go up front - 3 way versus 2 way.
i would seriously suggest going the full hog and installing a 3-way front stage. it should make a significant improvement in midrange quality...vocals, which are critical to the naturalness and impact of any music. it's not to say a top quality 2-way front stage is poor, but a well-installed 3-way will improve on things like soundstage/imaging (because you should be able to have the midrange speaker well-angled) and vocals.
installation can be a hassle. so it's fair to say if it's a huge job (eg: repositioning ECU/fuse boxs and wiring looms) or impacts on driver safety (eg: in the way of the accelerator), then maybe it's not suitable.
i wouldn't bother with 3-way in the rear. 2-way splits are verging on overkill as it is.
wheni auditioned a set of boston splits i found them to be to bas heavy for my liking, but if you like there sound then i can see no reason for your system to un with enough bass with out a sub.
cheers dave
cheers dave
QUOTE
Originally posted by paddy9000:
[QB]Now have in my possession the following kit:
Becker HU & 4ch Amp
Infinity 6513cs 6.5" 3 way splits
Infinity 6512cs 6.5" 2 way splits
Infinity 512i 5.25" coaxials
Infinity 8" reference sub in 14l enclosure
QB]
note he has it in his possession!!! lol no point usggesting bostons when he has bought something else allready [QB]Now have in my possession the following kit:
Becker HU & 4ch Amp
Infinity 6513cs 6.5" 3 way splits
Infinity 6512cs 6.5" 2 way splits
Infinity 512i 5.25" coaxials
Infinity 8" reference sub in 14l enclosure
QB]
sounds like a great choice let us know how it turns out!!
i would stay away from DIY personally, especially with such high level componants, u know its odd, i will install equipment in friends cars, but when its my own i get too scared *lol*
why not try and find the infinity distributer and give him a call and ask him to recommend somebody to install, he is bound to have heard from unhappy customers and happy customers and will know both the product and the people that install them he might be able to strike u a good deal on installation also....
i did that with my alpine equipment a while back when i bought it, as the day after buying the equipment i had a disagreement with the shop owner and gave it a miss, called w.a's alpine distributer and he pointed me in the right direction even to the point of arranging an extremely good price
and i must say i havnt looked back since
QUOTE
Originally posted by shiny_car:
becker is very high-end. i haven't heard any Members using one, or they haven't 'fessed up to owning a porsche or expensive merc or something.
I believe the link followed would be that of Cyberpunky's homepage so perhaps he would be the one to ask as he seems to be a fan of them.
becker is very high-end. i haven't heard any Members using one, or they haven't 'fessed up to owning a porsche or expensive merc or something.
Have the gear and now have the car also. I will definitely stay well away from DIY. Will leave the installation to someone that knows what they are doing
Dropped in to Doran Audio on Saturday and spoke to Tony about the installation and in particular, wether to install the 3 ways up front or not.
It was quickly decided that it would be best to stick with the two ways given that the car is new and that the 2 ways up front will basically fall into the existing cut outs maintaining the 'factory look'. You just have to trust someone that does not steer you into spending more money!!!
Car is booked in to have everything installed next Saturday so I will let you know how it sounds once done. I cannot wait
Also, a huge thank you to all that have posted. Much appreciated.
Dropped in to Doran Audio on Saturday and spoke to Tony about the installation and in particular, wether to install the 3 ways up front or not.
It was quickly decided that it would be best to stick with the two ways given that the car is new and that the 2 ways up front will basically fall into the existing cut outs maintaining the 'factory look'. You just have to trust someone that does not steer you into spending more money!!!
Car is booked in to have everything installed next Saturday so I will let you know how it sounds once done. I cannot wait
Also, a huge thank you to all that have posted. Much appreciated.
QUOTE
Originally posted by paddy9000:
I will let you know how it sounds once done. I cannot wait
I will let you know how it sounds once done. I cannot wait
hope it goes well. it should sound excellent, so do let us know.
Almost there....
Took the car down to Doran's to have everything fitted out only to have had the wrong Toyota mounting kit for the HU.
This means I have to wait yet another week for the install,
Will hope to report to you next week.
Stay tuned.......
Took the car down to Doran's to have everything fitted out only to have had the wrong Toyota mounting kit for the HU.
This means I have to wait yet another week for the install,
Will hope to report to you next week.
Stay tuned.......
Another week and I am still almost there!!!
The DIN suround we are awaiting does not exist for the new Corolla (this week).
Hoping to have one next week when I hope to let you all know how it went.
The DIN suround we are awaiting does not exist for the new Corolla (this week).
Hoping to have one next week when I hope to let you all know how it went.
Firstly, apologies for the delay in following up this post. I have finally had my system installed yesterday after numerous delays
The final installed system is as follows:
Becker Solitude Head Unit
Becker 350 4 Chanell Amp
Infinity 6512 Reference 6.5 " 2 Way Splits (Front)
Infinity 512 5.25" Coaxal (Rear)
Infinity 8" Sub
Well what can I say??????
I could try and throw together a heap of words to describe the sound quality but I will spare you!
The Becker system is nothing short of amazing.
When I set out this project, my benchmark for SQ was the BOSE system in the Mazda6. This set up leaves it for dead!
Thanks again to all those who contributed to this post. The final result exceeds my original expectations.
A big thank you also to Tony & the team @ Doran's.
Cheers.
The final installed system is as follows:
Becker Solitude Head Unit
Becker 350 4 Chanell Amp
Infinity 6512 Reference 6.5 " 2 Way Splits (Front)
Infinity 512 5.25" Coaxal (Rear)
Infinity 8" Sub
Well what can I say??????
I could try and throw together a heap of words to describe the sound quality but I will spare you!
The Becker system is nothing short of amazing.
When I set out this project, my benchmark for SQ was the BOSE system in the Mazda6. This set up leaves it for dead!
Thanks again to all those who contributed to this post. The final result exceeds my original expectations.
A big thank you also to Tony & the team @ Doran's.
Cheers.
Glad your happy
w00t!
now enter CAASQ at sydney autoexpo.
it's really good to hear your system exceeds expectations. gotta luuurrrv a sweet sounding system.
now enter CAASQ at sydney autoexpo.
it's really good to hear your system exceeds expectations. gotta luuurrrv a sweet sounding system.
Excuse my ignorance......
I will be attending the expo this Saturday and would love to have my system judged. I have not been to this type of event before.
On the day, what are the logistics surrounding the SQ comp. Where is this judged on the day?
Do I just come along with my entry form on the day or do I fax it ahead?
On the day is their a schedule for entrants or is this done on a first in basis?
Cheers
I will be attending the expo this Saturday and would love to have my system judged. I have not been to this type of event before.
On the day, what are the logistics surrounding the SQ comp. Where is this judged on the day?
Do I just come along with my entry form on the day or do I fax it ahead?
On the day is their a schedule for entrants or is this done on a first in basis?
Cheers
these exact issues are currently being discussed in the CAASQ forum, so pop over and get the latest
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