I just bought myself some Hertz HV-200's

People who have run boxed woofers, wat sized enclosure did you use? and how did you put it inside the door?

The box size im leaning towards is 10 litres as this gives optimum midbass performance, far better than runnign them in a leaky door.

Now other than constructing a box inside the door, is there any other disadvantages to running boxed midbass drivers?

No idea about sealed midbass, but what about mounting them in the floor, firing up? Much like cyberpunky's car. It would be easier to make.

Door will be heaps easy (i think) gonna make a small fibreglass box inside, and link the pod to this small box.

Is this how everyone else does it?

Might make the box inside the door as a PVC pipe, and just link to that? cause can get right angled join pipes.

Another thing to remember, arn't mid-bass drivers designd for IB?
eEk what am i doing posting in the sq forum. I feel dirty!

The specific driver the HV-200's will perform alot better in a box that in a door. The HV-200L's on the other hand are the opposite.

The 200's are more sensitive have better midrange, and the proper sealed box will give midbass performance equal to if not louder than the L versions.

Will thats wat the specs and WinISD suggests

Only the obvious stuff:

getting wiring out of the box

don't fiber glass over drainage holes (won't get water on speakers anymore though)

posibly not being able to put window all the way down( 10 litres is pretty big for a door)

Does the manufacturer make any recommendations on box size? WinISD should be better anyway just as long as you optimise the right characteristics (group delay not extension).

I guess you read the thread: 8 inch midbass theory..

Not sure of the correct size for that particular speaker but i have 6.5" midbasses in a small sealed enclosure in the kicks. sounds good in about 4 litres. This is probably a bit too small but limited space so thats what they get....

dosn't sound deadening your doors mean that you are creating a sort of box within your door.

if you cover all the service holes.

that's what i saw it as/....

sort of, but thin metal is hardly the idea material to make speaker boxes out of..

Ok looks like im going to be makign the box in 3 parts and putting them together in the door. Gonna run a PVC pipe down the bottom of the door where the drainage holes are, I'll then make a fibreglassed bit that links the pipe to the hole in the door. The pod on the outside of the trim will then connect to this hole in the door.

The pipe will be split into 2 pieces, and i'll make sure it fits nicely outside the door so i'll just whack in some glue and push them together inside the door.

10 litres is pretty big, hoepfully i'll be able to get 4 litres out of the PVC pipe, 2 litres out of the fibreglassed bit inside the door and a couple more litres in the pod.

God if this works, boy am i gonna have one awesome sound stage...

i can almost bet than your window uses the WHOLE door depth to retract into, also that its right in the middle of the door. SO that doesnt really leave you much room for your box's

I had the problem that Macca is talking about.
I thought I had heaps of room but when you put the window down you don't get much at all and it is split by the glass. You could just not put your window all the way down like some cars rear doors.

Why don't you fill your enclosures with that stuff that makes the driver think it is in a bigger enclosure?

Magic crystals?????

Nothing fools a speaker into thinking its in a big box exceot a big box.

Midbass drivers dont need a big box to get them down to 12 Hz, as we have subs for getting that low, and so box design programs wont tell you much.The door is probably a good enough enclousure but if midbass is solid you will have resonance issues, and so making the door NOT rattle is probably the biggest issue that confronts you when door mounting serious midbass drivers. Solve these resonance issues and box volume is a non issue IMO
peace
Cyberpunkly