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dr3tz
Hi, I have a five channel amplifier and I'm planning to run my system fully. My system consist of dynaudio 240GT, an a/d/s/ r12s subwoofer and a five channel helix brax amp. Now the problem is my 4 front channels are not bridgrable
Soundwerks
Ideally you need to be able to bandpass the mid-drivers, highpass the tweeters and lowpass the sub. Now, you amp would already have the sub covered so you need only worry about your front stage...although I would guess most of the crossovers you will be looking at will have the capability of controling your sub anyway.

I can't think of any 2 way crossovers with bandpass ability, so you'll be look at 3 way units. Brands to look at would include US Amps, Phoniex Gold, AudioControl, etc etc. There are many available to suit your requirements. I recommend seeking professional advice and assistance when setting up an active system - not always teh easiest thing to do!

Paul
Shieldsy
an alternative would be if your h/u can high pass then you could use a 2 way and high pass at the deck and low pass at the xover and save yourself some money
dr3tz
Well, I have an alpine cda-9815 HU. Would the internal crossover of the HU be sufficient to drive my system fully active?
audible
The built in x-over in the 9815 will be able to run your system. its quite able to band pass though im not sure how the rca out puts change, i assume that the fronts become highs, the rears become mids and the sub rca's remain the same.

alternatively, check out the cross over three way active x-over. sounds explosive sell cross fire, so give micheal a call and mention your a caa poster!
midland car audio is the only other place i know that sells cross fire though im sure there will be more in perth.
Rattlehead
With the 9815 -
u can LP (sub) variable between 20hz - 200hz
Bandpass variable between 20hz - 20khz
HP variable between 1khz - 20khz

For your setup - IMO, the head unit xover is perfect and there's no need to buy another one.

I don't have the manual in front of me but I think LP is sub output, Bandpass is rear, HP is front. But refer to the manual.

Also, with the i-Personalise feature, makes setting up the x-over, time alignment, EQ nice and easy!
blue_6006
Hey does anyone know if the Pioneer DEH-P8450MP can do this as well? Cos if it can it will save me some cash on an active crossover
Rattlehead
The Pioneer has a 2 way xover I think.
Just a HP and LP.
I think u can HP 50hz, 80hz, 120hz, 160hz??
and LP at the same points.

So you can LP for your sub...HP for your front stage. So you'll need to get another crossover...either passive or active.
dr3tz
QUOTE
Originally posted by Rattlehead:
With the 9815 -
u can LP (sub) variable between 20hz - 200hz
Bandpass variable between 20hz - 20khz
HP variable between 1khz - 20khz

For your setup - IMO, the head unit xover is perfect and there's no need to buy another one.

I don't have the manual in front of me but I think LP is sub output, Bandpass is rear, HP is front. But refer to the manual.

Also, with the i-Personalise feature, makes setting up the x-over, time alignment, EQ nice and easy!
Thanks for your help!
Rattlehead
No Probs!
If you check PG39 of the manual.
You'll need to pull the head unit out and switch to 3-way mode.
Tweeters is FRONT RCAs
Mid range is REAR RCAs
Low (Sub) is SUB RCAs
Great head unit!!
golf_bht
I have the alpine 9815. yeah I just try the 3 ways setting. work perfectlyand sound great. on top of that you got time correction for every speakers in your system which is a bonus.

Alpine 9815 HU
scanspeak 9900 tweeter
Scanspeak 18w-8546 mids
rockford Punch HX2 12" sub
rockford amp for sub 301M
Zapco studio 100 for the tweets
Zapco Studio 150 for the mids

[ November 27, 2003, 02:13: Message edited by: golf_bht ]
~Sparkles~
Ok i know this might seem like a stupid question, but, is the amp not bridgable at all? like not even with a bridging module? is it 2 ohm stable on the front channels?
TRU Tech
IMO, the HU XO would be your worst senerio.

Let's look at it from a power point of view:

HU has (1) power supply. With this power supply, youwill be running;

Display

Low level signal

CD Transport

and a built-in Active XO?

Just like an amplifier, a pre-amp is just that, an AMP. It requires the same amount of consideration to power up the pre-amp to achieve the "Drive-Current" thus no compromise to the original signal.

Most home audiophile pre-amps tend to have a separate power supply just for their pre-amp.

Don't expect something from nothing. You'er much better off saving your $$$ and investing in a good outboard XO.

*This is mearly my personal opinion. In no way is this the Absolute.

[ December 16, 2003, 15:09: Message edited by: TRU Tech ]
shiny_car
i must say i disagree, but hey, i'm not claiming to be absolutely correct either.

in the car environment, as opposed to home, there would be no audible SQ-loss using the inbuilt xovers. if that HU (9815) is not going to be used to drive speakers from its internal amps, then it will have plenty of power onboard to run the preamp section; i would not expect a 'lack' of power to be cause for signal degradation.

then there's the consideration for adding yet another component in the chain if you look at the option for an outboard active xover. this itself will be a source for signal degradation. let alone more RCA cables/connections and powerwiring (not to mention the (im)practical requirement to fit the thing somewhere).

the inbuilt xover of the 9815 is very convenient and versatile: adjustable from your seat, selectable frequency and selectable slope. and you will 'know' what freq you are selecting as opposed to a 'rough' idea by twiddling a pot on an EQ (not that this is a big deal; and then there's the option for some xovers to use resistors to create fixed-frequencies).

yes, there may be theoretical pros and cons, but in the end, if (which is my big presumption) there's no audible difference, why not stick with the HU's ones?



[ December 17, 2003, 10:51: Message edited by: shiny_car ]
dr3tz
QUOTE
Originally posted by KomodoWagon:
Ok i know this might seem like a stupid question, but, is the amp not bridgable at all? like not even with a bridging module? is it 2 ohm stable on the front channels?
Does this bridging module exist? I haven't heard about it before, can somebody enlighten me how they work? What sort of brand are available and how much do they cost? Cheers
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