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Mobile Electronics Australia > Mobile Electronics Discussion > SPL and Competition Discussion
SUBWRX
Ok, this the story. to date i have 2x 12"DVC type R's in there own 35ltr sealed box facing the rear of the boot in a 97camry. each subs is powered by a 2x150jaycar. so wired in serious each subs gets about 450WRS.
now the box is not to bad it hasnt been tuned profensanaly or tested to date.(waiting for doran's). im hoping it should be at least 140 as its extremely loud for 2 12's. but if it is over 140 i want to compete hopefully in the final battle sound off. first of all.
1)would a new box stronger. maybe ported and tuned get me noticable SPL over teh current box?
2)would a bigger battery from 430cc ATM to ....whatever? have significant results powerwise?
3)what class would i compete in woud it be worthwhile and would i have a chance of doing any godo at final battle with the setup i have or will have?
any idea's would be welcome as ive got a bit more money i could spend if not a new box an battery what else?
thanks alots cheers
ripped
how are the subs wired again? are they dvc 4ohms? if you have a pair of dvc 4's, you are only running 8 ohm to each of your amps, which means you are not running the amp to it's full potential. you can run both subs off the one amp and in theory you'd be getting the same power/spl.

if you were to only go the single sub, then you'd be in s1-2, i think you'll do ok in this class provided to can get over 140db with your new ported box. being in a camry sedan, i don't think a sealed box will be getting you over 140db, but i maybe wrong. IMO, since you are only drawing little amounts of current, i don't think a bigger battery is worth it. this would be the best way to go for being competitive at FB.

you can go hardcore and get another 2 amps, and running 4 amps, one to each coil would be another option. but that would put you in a higher class ss1-2, and i don't think you'd have enough to get a place. but you would get a high number out of your setup

so yeh, if you entered in s1-2, you might get lucky and pick up a place depend on how the new box goes.

------------------
2002 Holden Astra
HU: Blaupunkt Miami Beach
Front Stage: Orion XTR 6.2
Front Amp: PPI 2360 2x90
Subs: 2 x Audiobahn 1200Q
Sub Amp: JBL 1200.1
PB: 150.3db at BAS
MrAUII
sorry to hijack your thread, but when going for spl do you turn the hu settings to full bass or just leave at 0 and turn up volume?

Jarrett

------------------
Ford Laser
HU :alpine cda 7892e
FRONT:dls 5.25" basic splits
REAR :kenwood 7"x10"
SUBS :2x12" alpine type R subs
AMPS :us audio 4x50wrms
us audio 4x75wrms
Andu
I think u said they are dual 2ohm SWR-1241D's yeh? series parallel them onto 1 Jaycar for 2ohm load Ported box! I'm running a single chamber 135L (after displacement) box with a single port... got 146.4db yesterday and like you i'm stuck competing in a sedan.

------------------
Car: '90 Nissan Pintara (sedan)
Headunit: JVC KD-SX750
Fronts: TotalRecoil Carsplit.6
Frontamp: Alpine MRV-T301
Sub: 2x Alpine SWR-1240D
Subamp: Lanzar VPro 2000D
SPL: 146.4db
-1st 161 to 280sqin Bathurst Livewire 12/10/02-
"If its not quick, may aswell make it slower"
Zed
Just a quick note - if you're going to run 2 amps (1 Jaycar to each sub) you'll be in SuperStreet 1-2, which is a much tougher class.

Street 1-2 only allows 1 amp to be used.

------------------
Pioneer - Morel - JL Audio - Hertz - Alpine - DLS
G Spot - Flashtac - Aeropro

The new home of the little mouse that ROARED!


[Edited 1 time by Zed on 13 October 2002 at 08:33]
PejovicP
Build ported box!

use biggest port area that you can fit in your set up.

use aeroports (even if it is slot you need to have radius on edges)

design box so that you can change ports easily.

Buy best battery that fit in your car.

Improve your ground spots, improve ground from battery to chasis, from engine to chasis...

test test test...

[Edited 1 time by PejovicP on 13 October 2002 at 18:14]
Bodyjar
quote:
Originally posted by PejovicP:
[B]
use aeroports (even if it is slot you need to have radius on edges)

B]


These aeroports... They're just normal ports with flared ends right?

------------------

Pioneer DLS HERTZ XTANT Phoenix Gold

My Car pics

1st Place, Drag Combat 2002, 1 Woofer class
1st Place, Fast 4s Jamboree 2002, 0-160 sq inch class
Andu
quote:
Originally posted by Bodyjar:
These aeroports... They're just normal ports with flared ends right?




Like these ones bro! I haven't seen any of these size round ports in Australia... I want some




------------------
Car: '90 Nissan Pintara (sedan)
Headunit: JVC KD-SX750
Fronts: TotalRecoil Carsplit.6
Frontamp: Alpine MRV-T301
Sub: 2x Alpine SWR-1240D
Subamp: Lanzar VPro 2000D
SPL: 146.4db
-1st 161 to 280sqin Bathurst Livewire 12/10/02-
"If its not quick, may aswell make it slower"
PejovicP
YES

Aeroports can give you 1-2 dB almost for free. I find that from testing.

Flares must be on both ends.

DLS makes some up to 10 cm, I have no idea what other companies are in your country.

But if you have some time you can do something by yourself.
SUBWRX
yes dual 2ohms subs.
so what your sayin is with 2 amps i dont have a chance because ill be in ssclass?
andu? whats you box like where didyou get he measurmenst from and what can you compared it to?

PejovicP-u are from slovenia? are you living there now or what? my dads was born in the same town as you? ive never met anyone from there fark thats weird. its such a tiny place.
bassaholic55
ok so if am a cheap ass and i wanted aeroports couldn't i just get my current 4inch pipe and heat it up and curve it around? Would this do the same thing?

------------------

1988 toyota soarer

Clarion
Planet Audio Lanzar Beyond Audio
PejovicP
Yes, I am born here, live here and it looks I am going to stay here.

Basic country info: http://www.matkurja.com/eng/country-info/
and it is really small country.

Good idea for street class is also to buy D Class amp. It can give much more power at same ampere draw.

Any idea that can make rigid flares is OK.
Bassaholic
quote:
Originally posted by Andu:
Like these ones bro! I haven't seen any of these size round ports in Australia... I want some



I've only seen those in Australia once.. a pair of em on the Total Recoils single 15" box that was used in the Barina back in the day

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- A proud member of Team Gates - A proud supporter of the CAA SPL project
Andu
quote:
Originally posted by PejovicP:
Flares must be on both ends.



I was just about to ask that actually, thanks for reading my mind

quote:
Originally posted by Bassaholic:
I've only seen those in Australia once.. a pair of em on the Total Recoils single 15" box that was used in the Barina back in the day


Oh so TR were in on the secret years ago then. I always like to sand the edges off my rectangle ports so its nice and smooth, just logical that air would flow round them better that way. But those flares are huge... ME WANT!




------------------
Car: '90 Nissan Pintara (sedan)
Headunit: JVC KD-SX750
Fronts: TotalRecoil Carsplit.6
Frontamp: Alpine MRV-T301
Sub: 2x Alpine SWR-1240D
Subamp: Lanzar VPro 2000D
SPL: 146.4db
-1st 161 to 280sqin Bathurst Livewire 12/10/02-
"If its not quick, may aswell make it slower"
Andu
quote:
Originally posted by SUBWRX:
yes dual 2ohms subs.
so what your sayin is with 2 amps i dont have a chance because ill be in ssclass?
andu? whats you box like where didyou get he measurmenst from and what can you compared it to?



2 amps = Super Street = people with 15"+ subs, multiple amps, multiple batteries, big scores.

Pictures of my box are at www.picturetrail.com/andrew45 The subs aren't inverted anymore and pictured is my street port, the panel is removable so I can swap to my SPL one which is always being modified, important to be able to change port design easily. The box is 900mm wide, 400mm high and about 480mm deep I think... It was the biggest box I could squeeze into my trunk. The baffle is not angled, I think a flat faced baffle works better in my car.

Get one of your Jaycar amps modified with extra mosfets so its relatively more stable @ 2ohm mono and get it running both your subs for burps @ Final Battle so your in Street 1-2

------------------
Car: '90 Nissan Pintara (sedan)
Headunit: JVC KD-SX750
Fronts: TotalRecoil Carsplit.6
Frontamp: Alpine MRV-T301
Sub: 2x Alpine SWR-1240D
Subamp: Lanzar VPro 2000D
SPL: 146.4db
-1st 161 to 280sqin Bathurst Livewire 12/10/02-
"If its not quick, may aswell make it slower"
lethal
whats the go with flaring at both ends. how do you get the port in the box. do you have to build in there permenently, or build half permenenently, the bit in the box, and the other half interchangeable so you can change frequencies easily.

------------------

Head unit: Pioneer
Front stage amp: Blaupunkt GTA400
Front: Clarion: 6.5 splits
Rear: JBL 6.5 coax
Sub amp: Hertz H 230 Dual mono amplifier
Earthquake: tuned to 40Hz

*Slap in the face **** ,
with a damn deep base hit*
Bassaholic
quote:
Originally posted by lethal:
whats the go with flaring at both ends. how do you get the port in the box. do you have to build in there permenently, or build half permenenently, the bit in the box, and the other half interchangeable so you can change frequencies easily.




take out a woofer, put the flared end on the port, put the woofer back in

------------------
- A proud member of Team Gates - A proud supporter of the CAA SPL project
ripped
where do we get these flared attachments for 4" round ports?

------------------
2002 Holden Astra
HU: Blaupunkt Miami Beach
Front Stage: Orion XTR 6.2
Front Amp: PPI 2360 2x90
Subs: 2 x Audiobahn 1200Q
Sub Amp: JBL 1200.1
PB: 150.3db at BAS
Bassaholic
4" flared ends are pretty common, so shouldn't be that hard to find, although I'm suprised that they don't seem to be in jaycars catalogue

alternatives are large square ports with rounded edges

------------------
- A proud member of Team Gates - A proud supporter of the CAA SPL project
lethal
where do you get these flared port ends?

------------------

Head unit: Pioneer
Front stage amp: Blaupunkt GTA400
Front: Clarion: 6.5 splits
Rear: JBL 6.5 coax
Sub amp: Hertz H 230 Dual mono amplifier
Earthquake: tuned to 40Hz

*Slap in the face **** ,
with a damn deep base hit*
PejovicP
quote:
Originally posted by lethal:
whats the go with flaring at both ends. how do you get the port in the box. do you have to build in there permenently, or build half permenenently, the bit in the box, and the other half interchangeable so you can change frequencies easily.




I don't know for others but DLS have smal and big flare. Smal one goes into box and big one is biger to fit hole slightly bigger than small piece.

So you just pull complete port out for cuting and adjusting. You don't need to pull subwoofer out of the box!!!

On top of the box in picture you see PVC pipe which is much cehaper (and not so pretty) than original one.

Ports can easily stay in box just with pressing it in correctly cut hole.

BTW in picture is 150,5 (dB Drag) with one Audison and one Lanzar sub, approximately 50 lit box and 2 DLS ports. Car is Fiat Punto.




[Edited 1 time by PejovicP on 16 October 2002 at 16:56]
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