okay, hopefully I can portray my confusion.

Let's say I get a sub rated at 100wrms, so I get an amp at 100wrms, thereotically it will be as efficient as possible, hence maximum SPL from it, correct?

now, say you by a 1000wrms sub, you will then need a amp at 1000wrms, and again it will be operating at max efficiency, but will the SPL higher?

If not, thereotically you could just get a high excursion 1wrms sub and amp. (if the power is only for a cleaner signal (which I think it is ) then you just spend mega bucks on a extremely clean signal and just have a simple 1 wrms amp and sub.

in the words of Austin Powers "oh no, I've gone cross eyed."

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System Includes: /////Alpine, Rockford Fosgate, Boss, more RF - see pics for info
----====124dB=====----
My Pics
BASS ON BOARD.
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Our Scores: 1st - 135.9dB from V-net 10"

not exactly..

first of all, manufacturers power ratings can vary greatly

secondly, a good honest power rating, would be an amount of power that enables the sub to get loud, over the required frequency range but with no chance of over excursion, or overheating the coil
Now, due to the way sound is created, a sub has to move further at lower frequencys to maintain the same SPL (not including any gains from the box, or room etc)
Fortunately in a car, depending to the dimensions, and the location of the speaker, you get quite a bit of gain down low - usually reffered to as the "transfer function" or "cabin gain", so the sub doesn't have to move as far.

Now the "resonant frequency" of a car is a compromise between the amount you gain from the cars transfer function vs how much excursion is required

Since this frequency is generally higher than the frequency that the speaker is designed to go down to (at a certain power level, without over excursion) the sub moves less and since you only have to play the tone for a short moment, the speakers coil won't heat up as much
(if you feed it too much power for a longer period of time, then the coil could be damaged)

So subs can handle much more power in an SPL application than for daily driving

now although it is a good idea to make a speaker that can move very far using very little power, it isn't exactly feasable with our current speaker technology

There are also other important factors too, like sounding good, durability/reliability, small enclosures, cost and so on


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- A proud member of Team Gates - A proud supporter of the CAA SPL project

my understanding is that power rating on speakers is just a 'thermal rating', ie, how much heat the speaker can handle without being destroyed. it has very little to do with how much power the speaker needs to perform efficiently (loudly), or, with how loud the speaker really is.

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Custom SQ System
Dolby Prologic II in 3.1

Source: Clarion DXZ925 w/ DPL2 Decoder - Front Stage: Boston Acoustics Pro 6.5's - Centre Channel: Boston Acoustics Pro 5.5LF - Ambient Satellites: Boston Acoustics 3/4" Kortec Tweeters - Processors: Audiocontrol EQT's - Subwoofers: Earthquake BR12's - Amplifiers: Kicker IX404's - Power: Stinger 1 Farad HPM Capacitor
Sounding sweet and taking it to the street

ah, so the power rating is just a thermal rating in reality, but why make subs with such big power if you dont need it?

so thereotically a 1 wrms sub could go louder than a 1000 wrms, even if they are both feed their desired power.

I told you that I am confused

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System Includes: /////Alpine, Rockford Fosgate, Boss, more RF - see pics for info
----====124dB=====----
My Pics
BASS ON BOARD.
If something can go wrong, then it will go wrong
Team Xmax - Xtend your surroundings
Our Scores: 1st - 135.9dB from V-net 10"

basically, the Watts rating on a speaker means jack sh1te but its good for marketing purposes and for bragging to your mates. it has nothing to do with how loud the speaker is or can go. all it tells you is how much amplifier power the speaker will take, without blowing up. so, a 500 watt sub will not be louder than a 200 watt sub, just because of the rating. it has to do with the speakers design, its enclosure, the amount of power you feed it, how it is oriented etc.

the reason why subs with high watt ratings are praised is because they will handle the big amps SPL competitors and boomers like to put through them.

so in short - speaker watt rating on its own has nothing to do with loudness


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Custom SQ System
Dolby Prologic II in 3.1

Source: Clarion DXZ925 w/ DPL2 Decoder - Front Stage: Boston Acoustics Pro 6.5's - Centre Channel: Boston Acoustics Pro 5.5LF - Ambient Satellites: Boston Acoustics 3/4" Kortec Tweeters - Processors: Audiocontrol EQT's - Subwoofers: Earthquake BR12's - Amplifiers: Kicker IX404's - Power: Stinger 1 Farad HPM Capacitor
Sounding sweet and taking it to the street

thanks for clearing that up.

I just gotta wonder why they continue to make subs and amps with big power when they should be focusing on better quality and efficient products. oh well, one day I or them might learn something.

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System Includes: /////Alpine, Rockford Fosgate, Boss, more RF - see pics for info
----====124dB=====----
My Pics
BASS ON BOARD.
If something can go wrong, then it will go wrong
Team Xmax - Xtend your surroundings
Our Scores: 1st - 135.9dB from V-net 10"

quote:

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Originally posted by adcola64:
thanks for clearing that up.

I just gotta wonder why they continue to make subs and amps with big power when they should be focusing on better quality and efficient products. oh well, one day I or them might learn something.

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because a speaker design is a compromise between all of the factors

just because a sub is efficent and gets loud doesn't mean it will sound good or work well in a realisticly sized box

a higher power rating COULD mean the speaker can play louder, but there are more factors involved

efficency and power handling are just one of MANY factors in a speaker design

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- A proud member of Team Gates - A proud supporter of the CAA SPL project