As some of you may know I am infamous for never keeping the same system in my car for longer than a month or two...
Well it becomes hard to come up with new ideas all the time but here's one I've considered trying sometime down the road. Unfortunately the nature of this design means that I don't have the physical size in my vehicle to try this with my 15" JL's. If I come across some 10's or 12's sometime I may give this a try. Have a look and let me know what you all think...
http://www.decware.com/whorn.htm
Full Version: Wicked One
wow, i was gonna say when i saw the first picture "uhhh, isn't that just a bandpass" hehe, it is, but it's horn loaded I understand the concept, but how exactly does the "horn" design work to increase the output?
Aaron
Aaron
The wicked one is what I'd consider a "mini horn", since the throat isn't that long relative to the frequency range it is covering. A very basic explination would be as it says on the site, it works sorta like a variable tuned port tuned over a range of frequencys.
[ January 08, 2003, 21:50: Message edited by: Bassaholic ]
[ January 08, 2003, 21:50: Message edited by: Bassaholic ]
it makes a good coffee table
mmm kind of compressing the air before it gets out of the box similar to puting your port 5 or so cm away from a solid panel, depending on the frequency giving a lot or a little amount of compression in the port therfore restricting or not restricting the wave as it exits the port-tuning on the fly ???????????????????????
I got the go ahead today so I'll be building both a 10" and a 12" version over the next few weeks.
So I guess we'll see what the hype is about?
I'm EXCITED!
So I guess we'll see what the hype is about?
I'm EXCITED!
That looks like an amwesome idea, particulary after examining the freq. responce chart on the site....
Bones, I'm dying to know how you calculated the box dimensions!
Bones, I'm dying to know how you calculated the box dimensions!
QUOTE
Originally posted by Jay:
Bones, I'm dying to know how you calculated the box dimensions!
LOL I just downloaded the design from the website Bones, I'm dying to know how you calculated the box dimensions!
It explains everything for the 8", 10" and 12" versions... It's the 15" and 18" version that get tricky, but some people O/S are building them too!!!!
QUOTE
Originally posted by forest:
mmm kind of compressing the air before it gets out of the box similar to puting your port 5 or so cm away from a solid panel, depending on the frequency giving a lot or a little amount of compression in the port therfore restricting or not restricting the wave as it exits the port-tuning on the fly ???????????????????????
Sorry buddy, thats not how it works.. You are almost, but not quite on the right track as far as how a normal port works.
mmm kind of compressing the air before it gets out of the box similar to puting your port 5 or so cm away from a solid panel, depending on the frequency giving a lot or a little amount of compression in the port therfore restricting or not restricting the wave as it exits the port-tuning on the fly ???????????????????????
I'll be REAL interested to hear about how well this works esp after talking with KraSE about the thing he is having a go at.
IMO this is kinda "the way of the future" as we lean on higher efficiencies in bass for The SQL World.
Keep us posted moit
IMO this is kinda "the way of the future" as we lean on higher efficiencies in bass for The SQL World.
Keep us posted moit
QUOTE
Originally posted by Bassaholic:
QUOTE]Sorry buddy, thats not how it works.. You are almost, but not quite on the right track as far as how a normal port works.[/QB]
That's all well and good Andrew, but exactly how does this type of design work? An open ended statement like that only leaves you in a weaker position. Forest asked because he genuinely didn't know the prinicple. I also do not feel as though I have a strong enough grasp to explain it accurately. I do know, however, that you more than likely understand this. If not I know that you would be more than able to find out the theoretical formula behind it. CAA is simply a forum for the exchange of information and education of it's members. QUOTE]Sorry buddy, thats not how it works.. You are almost, but not quite on the right track as far as how a normal port works.[/QB]
I'll even ask politely...
Could you please explain the theory behind Horn loading and why it is able to tune over such a wide bandwidth?
Thanks,
Scott
yep i don't know that's why i put ???????? but i do know that the placement of a port is important ie. near a solid panel, not from theory but from practise, i do not know why i guess it has something to do with the compression inside the box and port or perhaps lessens the impact of the port on the cone creating a larger excursion, answers please.
just looking at the wicked one it looks to me that the air is compressed, added to another then unleashed. kind of simple but thats the idea, so everyone can understand without having a physics background. oh and please correct me if im wrong-in simple terms so all of us can be educated.
cheers.
Scott.
just looking at the wicked one it looks to me that the air is compressed, added to another then unleashed. kind of simple but thats the idea, so everyone can understand without having a physics background. oh and please correct me if im wrong-in simple terms so all of us can be educated.
cheers.
Scott.
Ok, I've got some time on my hands..
You are correct that there is compression going on, but how could that help? (don't answer that because I am just about to..)
Now a horn works as an acoustic impedance transformer. What does this mean? I'll get to that soon.
On to how a speaker reproduces sound. Now a sound is the compression and rarefaction of the air, many times a second. Basically, the cone moves out pressurising the air molecules (up to the 1/4 wave point), then moves back to its rest position moving the air back molecules to the rest position (up to the 1/2 wave point). It then keeps on moving, sucking the air back (up to the 3/4 wave point) and then moves back to its rest position, moving the air molecules back to the original position.
Now at the 1/4 wave point, the pressure is at its maximum, but the speakers cone has no velocity as it is about to travel in the opposite direction. At the 1/2 way point, the pressure is back to the normal atmosphere pressure, but the cone has reached its maximum velocity. At the 3/4 point, the decrease in pressure is at its maximum and again the speakers cone has no velocity.
Now on to how a horn works..
As I said, a horn works as an impedance transformer, meaning it converts high pressure, low velocity energy at the speaker to low pressure, high velocity energy at the end of the horn. Now this works by making the speaker play into a small throat to compress the air (ie so the speaker plays into a high pressure situation) and then an slowly expanding to slowly increase the velocity. The dimensions of the horn are of course very important, if you want the horn to play down to 50hz, then you will want the throat length to be a 1/4 of the wavelength of 50hz (~1.7m). As explained earlier, from rest the cone starts to move out and pressurise the air at the 1/4 wave position at the speaker. There will be high pressure at the speaker and low pressure at the end of the throat. Once the speaker moves back to its 1/2 wave position, there will be low pressure at the speaker, but high pressure at the end of the throat (since it is 1/4 wave long). It then happens in the other direction as the speaker moves towards the 3/4 wave position and then back to its at rest positon.
Due to the high pressure of the throat in front of the speaker and the way a horn works, speakers that work well in horns have certain characteristics. Firstly they have to have strong cones and suspension to handle the high pressure. A very strong motor/light moving mass is also important for high efficiency. The problem with these speakers normally, is they are very efficient in the midrange, but the low frequency response is highly damped, meaning they are like very efficient midbass drivers rather than subwoofers. But when you put it in a horn loaded enclosure it greatly improves the low end and results in a high efficiency. This allows the speaker to create a relatively large amount of SPL without requiring as much excursion and power.
Some horns also work on a "waveguide" effect, which focus the sound into a particular direction. Of course, due to the long wavelengths low frequency horns would have to be massive to have this effect.
Now I'm sure your now thinking of the dimensions of the wicked one horn and you may realise that the horn throat length is realatively short, this means that the placement of the horn in your car is critical, to extend the length of the horn.
You are correct that there is compression going on, but how could that help? (don't answer that because I am just about to..)
Now a horn works as an acoustic impedance transformer. What does this mean? I'll get to that soon.
On to how a speaker reproduces sound. Now a sound is the compression and rarefaction of the air, many times a second. Basically, the cone moves out pressurising the air molecules (up to the 1/4 wave point), then moves back to its rest position moving the air back molecules to the rest position (up to the 1/2 wave point). It then keeps on moving, sucking the air back (up to the 3/4 wave point) and then moves back to its rest position, moving the air molecules back to the original position.
Now at the 1/4 wave point, the pressure is at its maximum, but the speakers cone has no velocity as it is about to travel in the opposite direction. At the 1/2 way point, the pressure is back to the normal atmosphere pressure, but the cone has reached its maximum velocity. At the 3/4 point, the decrease in pressure is at its maximum and again the speakers cone has no velocity.
Now on to how a horn works..
As I said, a horn works as an impedance transformer, meaning it converts high pressure, low velocity energy at the speaker to low pressure, high velocity energy at the end of the horn. Now this works by making the speaker play into a small throat to compress the air (ie so the speaker plays into a high pressure situation) and then an slowly expanding to slowly increase the velocity. The dimensions of the horn are of course very important, if you want the horn to play down to 50hz, then you will want the throat length to be a 1/4 of the wavelength of 50hz (~1.7m). As explained earlier, from rest the cone starts to move out and pressurise the air at the 1/4 wave position at the speaker. There will be high pressure at the speaker and low pressure at the end of the throat. Once the speaker moves back to its 1/2 wave position, there will be low pressure at the speaker, but high pressure at the end of the throat (since it is 1/4 wave long). It then happens in the other direction as the speaker moves towards the 3/4 wave position and then back to its at rest positon.
Due to the high pressure of the throat in front of the speaker and the way a horn works, speakers that work well in horns have certain characteristics. Firstly they have to have strong cones and suspension to handle the high pressure. A very strong motor/light moving mass is also important for high efficiency. The problem with these speakers normally, is they are very efficient in the midrange, but the low frequency response is highly damped, meaning they are like very efficient midbass drivers rather than subwoofers. But when you put it in a horn loaded enclosure it greatly improves the low end and results in a high efficiency. This allows the speaker to create a relatively large amount of SPL without requiring as much excursion and power.
Some horns also work on a "waveguide" effect, which focus the sound into a particular direction. Of course, due to the long wavelengths low frequency horns would have to be massive to have this effect.
Now I'm sure your now thinking of the dimensions of the wicked one horn and you may realise that the horn throat length is realatively short, this means that the placement of the horn in your car is critical, to extend the length of the horn.
QUOTE
Originally posted by Bones:
I'll even ask politely...
Could you please explain the theory behind Horn loading and why it is able to tune over such a wide bandwidth?
Yeah, I just had to find some time to explain it properly, so I don't look at it in a weeks time and think "WTF was I thinking". lolI'll even ask politely...
Could you please explain the theory behind Horn loading and why it is able to tune over such a wide bandwidth?
Now a horn won't neccesarily have a wide bandwidth, but will have more bandwidth than a bandpass box, while maintaining similar efficiency. I admit the fact that I compared the horn to a port was a bit misleading on my part. A horn will also have multiple tunings. The difficult part (and I'm talking about midrange and high frequency horns now, since low frequencys have such long wavelengths, multiple tunings isn't really as much of an issue) is smoothing out all of the peaks and troughs that you will inevitably get without a lot of testing/designing.
Bassaholic you rock!
Thanks for the help with this...It's good to get an explination as opposed to a marketing hype point of view on these enclosures. Hopefully soon I will also be able to provide a 'practical' opinion of these as well. It will be interesting as you say, to see how much of an effect horn placement within the vehicle has to do with performance. Everything I've read so far point towards forward placement of the horn, but I'll try backwards and upwards as well (if it'll fit LOL)
Scott
Thanks for the help with this...It's good to get an explination as opposed to a marketing hype point of view on these enclosures. Hopefully soon I will also be able to provide a 'practical' opinion of these as well. It will be interesting as you say, to see how much of an effect horn placement within the vehicle has to do with performance. Everything I've read so far point towards forward placement of the horn, but I'll try backwards and upwards as well (if it'll fit LOL)
Scott
QUOTE
Originally posted by Bassaholic:
...meaning it converts high pressure, low velocity energy at the speaker to low pressure, high velocity energy at the end of the horn...
(Just trying to relate this to something I vaguely understand...)...meaning it converts high pressure, low velocity energy at the speaker to low pressure, high velocity energy at the end of the horn...
This appears to be the same effect the the 30/60 rocket nozzle works on...
By compressong low velocity, high pressure flow flow, then allowing a controlled expansion, you get high velocity, low pressure. Of course, the big diff here is we are dealing with waves, rather than continuous flow.
I'm not sure if u guys have heard of this (i'm new here ). A proggie called WinISD. Pretty much you enter the specs of your sub and type of enclosure stc. and it shows you the expected frequency response. Might be worth testing the design before you make them. If u don't know how to do it give me the stats and I can do it for you no probs
Hi Frost,
Welcome onboard! As for WinISD yeah it's pretty much a compulsory tool in order to get a CAA Membership LOL We all have it and are fairly well versed with it. Unfortunately it is limited in the enclosure designs which it is able to model and in this application it is not very useful. Another draw back to almost all modelling software is that the results on paper and the 'real world' results can vary greatly! No doubt it is a GREAT tool to be used in moderation as a starting point, but there is just no getting around testing and re-building...
Thanks for the input though...
Welcome onboard! As for WinISD yeah it's pretty much a compulsory tool in order to get a CAA Membership LOL We all have it and are fairly well versed with it. Unfortunately it is limited in the enclosure designs which it is able to model and in this application it is not very useful. Another draw back to almost all modelling software is that the results on paper and the 'real world' results can vary greatly! No doubt it is a GREAT tool to be used in moderation as a starting point, but there is just no getting around testing and re-building...
Thanks for the input though...
Just a quick update I've started two different wicked one boxes today...
One is a 36"x24" for the 10's and the other is a 36"x36" for the 12's
I should have them roughed out over this weekend so I'll keep you all posted...
One is a 36"x24" for the 10's and the other is a 36"x36" for the 12's
I should have them roughed out over this weekend so I'll keep you all posted...
good stuff
Well all the pieces are cut and have been dry fitted. I've got half of the 36"x24" box put together, but the heat was killing me!!
For the difficulty of construction these things had better sound good!!!! They're sure fiddly...
For the difficulty of construction these things had better sound good!!!! They're sure fiddly...
i think i speak for alot of people when i say....PICS, WE WANT PICS!
which way are going to to face the port? forward or back?
damn, 36" long, i assume you have no back seat
damn, 36" long, i assume you have no back seat
QUOTE
Originally posted by rippedskin:
which way are going to to face the port? forward or back?
damn, 36" long, i assume you have no back seat
This is bones and his excel here...which way are going to to face the port? forward or back?
damn, 36" long, i assume you have no back seat
I Dont think its has a back seat after he got some subs
I'd like to see a pic of the 36x36 box inside the car to see how you actually fit it in.
I've got lotsa pics just nowhere to upload them too
Yeah as for the 36x36 box, it's damn BIG! I should have them both together tomorrow night. The 36x24 box just needs a final sanding and the top fitted. The 36x36 is about half way built. There's a ton of screws and a whole lot of bog (covering the screws) I'm getting anxious now!
BTW Bassaholic where did you get those plans? They are very similar but not quite the same as the one I'm using... I just got mine off the Decware forums listed above.
Yeah as for the 36x36 box, it's damn BIG! I should have them both together tomorrow night. The 36x24 box just needs a final sanding and the top fitted. The 36x36 is about half way built. There's a ton of screws and a whole lot of bog (covering the screws) I'm getting anxious now!
BTW Bassaholic where did you get those plans? They are very similar but not quite the same as the one I'm using... I just got mine off the Decware forums listed above.
I think they r Mark 1 of the bassaholic version to fit in his car he showed me a couple of days ago
I think I did this right, just signed up for Picturetrail, so let me know if it doesn't work.
Here's the link:
http://www.picturetrail.com/bones4444
click on My Album
Here's the link:
http://www.picturetrail.com/bones4444
click on My Album
hmm, that looks bloody crazy. make sure you tell us how they go!
i've seen this in the errrr....dust? wood?...yeh i seen it i have
definately a tricky design to look at, SOOOO many angles, damn lotta work for sure, but i guess we'll see what happens with it soonish
definately a tricky design to look at, SOOOO many angles, damn lotta work for sure, but i guess we'll see what happens with it soonish
Well good news and bad news...
Bad news really isn't all that bad so I'll start there. I ran out of bog so I couldn't finish the 36"x36" version, but I will tomorrow...
Good news is that I finished the 36"x24" dual 10" version. I'm running the entry level Cadence Z10W2's (150w RMS 2ohm VC) off of a Cadence Z8000 amplifier (same as I ran at FB 2x175w RMS but running 4ohm mono atm 1x500w RMS)
So now that ppl know what the equip details are...
I ran it outside of the car and it wa alright, nothing too special so we dropped it into the car with the port facing forward. It just fits in behind the seats. It hits BLOODY HARD! The low frequency extension is not quite there compared to my JL's but that's to be expected since these are only 10's, but they play quite comfortably down to 35-40hz. It'll be interesting to see how this changes as the subs run in a bit.
One thing to note is that this enclosure really needs a steep crossover! The box will play all the way up to vocal range but sounds pretty crap in the upper 150-200hz range. I set the crossover at 80hz (12dB) but wouldn't mind a 18 or even 24db/oct... I didn't have access to a metre so I'm not too sure how loud they hit but in the upper bass it was audibly as loud as the 15's (I know this is a very unfair comparison, but...) It was loud enough to rattle my teeth quite nicely and force me to pop my ears a few times LOL
We're thinking of swapping out the Z Series and then trying each of the other models to see how well they perform.
All in all I give this enclosure the BIG THUMBS UP!!
It's difficult as hell to build but it's well worth it! Might not go as low as the JL's but for entry level 10's it's pretty damn amazing!!
I uploaded some more pics and changed the name of my album:
www.picturetrail.com/bones4444
click on Wicked One, there should be 28 pics!
Bad news really isn't all that bad so I'll start there. I ran out of bog so I couldn't finish the 36"x36" version, but I will tomorrow...
Good news is that I finished the 36"x24" dual 10" version. I'm running the entry level Cadence Z10W2's (150w RMS 2ohm VC) off of a Cadence Z8000 amplifier (same as I ran at FB 2x175w RMS but running 4ohm mono atm 1x500w RMS)
So now that ppl know what the equip details are...
I ran it outside of the car and it wa alright, nothing too special so we dropped it into the car with the port facing forward. It just fits in behind the seats. It hits BLOODY HARD! The low frequency extension is not quite there compared to my JL's but that's to be expected since these are only 10's, but they play quite comfortably down to 35-40hz. It'll be interesting to see how this changes as the subs run in a bit.
One thing to note is that this enclosure really needs a steep crossover! The box will play all the way up to vocal range but sounds pretty crap in the upper 150-200hz range. I set the crossover at 80hz (12dB) but wouldn't mind a 18 or even 24db/oct... I didn't have access to a metre so I'm not too sure how loud they hit but in the upper bass it was audibly as loud as the 15's (I know this is a very unfair comparison, but...) It was loud enough to rattle my teeth quite nicely and force me to pop my ears a few times LOL
We're thinking of swapping out the Z Series and then trying each of the other models to see how well they perform.
All in all I give this enclosure the BIG THUMBS UP!!
It's difficult as hell to build but it's well worth it! Might not go as low as the JL's but for entry level 10's it's pretty damn amazing!!
I uploaded some more pics and changed the name of my album:
www.picturetrail.com/bones4444
click on Wicked One, there should be 28 pics!
damn bones, that looks bloody awesome you're pretty good with your box making. I think i'll get shieldsy to try this setup for his 2 Boss Audio 10"s.
naste i like it
ive been meening to build 1 for like the last 100000 years looked to hard tho
ive been meening to build 1 for like the last 100000 years looked to hard tho
you finished the 36x36 yet bones?? interested to hear if theres ne difference
ok i think i may give it a try here at commy & shields enterprizes...... lol on a serious note BONES how does this box go with spl.... worth making or worth going with ported?....... i kno i would get the WOW factor from peeps that have some idea and the "WTF IS THAT" from the fully shick people... but i wanna kno if it pumps more t hen a well made tuned box?
Well the last of the bog is drying now, just have to fit the top do a bit of sanding and put in the subs. All going according to plan we should be testing the 36x36 Dual 12" version this afternoon!
I'll put some more pics up once I get a bit further along. Did I mention how freaking heavy this thing is????
I can't wait to hear it! I'll have both the 36x24 dual 10" and the 36x36 dual 12" enclosures in the car for this saturday's meet-up for anyone who's interested in having a listen...
I'll update tonight with the results...
I'll put some more pics up once I get a bit further along. Did I mention how freaking heavy this thing is????
I can't wait to hear it! I'll have both the 36x24 dual 10" and the 36x36 dual 12" enclosures in the car for this saturday's meet-up for anyone who's interested in having a listen...
I'll update tonight with the results...
Hmmn I hit a little snag... I ran out of time today getting the box finished, removing my seats and cleaning the garage. Also I can't lift the BLOODY thing LOL!!
I friend is coming over this evening to help put it in the car so I'll be able to test it out tomorrow! In the meantime I put up a bunch more pics, so have a look:
www.picturetrail.com/bones4444
Click on 10" Wicked One or 12" Wicked One
[ January 30, 2003, 19:20: Message edited by: Bones ]
I friend is coming over this evening to help put it in the car so I'll be able to test it out tomorrow! In the meantime I put up a bunch more pics, so have a look:
www.picturetrail.com/bones4444
Click on 10" Wicked One or 12" Wicked One
[ January 30, 2003, 19:20: Message edited by: Bones ]
I am glad i didn't have to build it!!!
looking good.. pity I'm not in Vic to hear them..
Took two of us to get the damn thing in the car tonight. Good thing I had help cuz there was NO WAY I could do it alone...
I put up a quick pic of it in the car too...
I put up a quick pic of it in the car too...
Looks like some awesome work with that complex design... Would be nice to use a big perspex sheet on top to show it off
Again I would love to hear it and it's too bad you aint in sydney .
Again I would love to hear it and it's too bad you aint in sydney .
Well where to begin?
The day started out fine and ended up GREAT with a few patches of Oooops thrown in for good measure!
We got the 36x36 box with dual Z12W-2's installed and wired up off of the Z8000. After setting the crossover to an acceptable level we had a bit of a play... VERY Impressive but it seemed that the amplifier was running out of power before the subs would give up. That's when the BIG GUNS can out to play! We installed a A7HC and rewired the subs for a 1ohm load (so 1400w RMS) installed the remote gain control and had nother play. Holy !#!@# WOW! Unbelievable the amount of output from this thing. I'm not too sure if many of you remember the tube enclosures I had inthe Excel running off og GMHVNS's Shredder amp? Well these almost rivalled the amount of bodyflex!
We played around with the EQ settings and really had it pumping, when suddenly POOF! Oooopsy Daisy there went the subs! I guess in retrospect putting 1400w RMS into 400w speakers wasn't such a great idea... Luckily we had access to a pair of BEAST 12's (2ohm VC, 600w RMS) and with some minor modifications fit them into the box. BTW there was planty of smoke once the lid was removed from the box and the magnets of the deceased Z12W-2's were rather uhmmm warm?
OK so now we had 1400w of power into 600w RMS speakers and it was time to give it Hell! Let me just say it is incredibly lucky that the Excel hatch is still connected to the car! The amount odf movement in the rear hatch has to be seen to be believed (granted it was a warm day but CRAP MAN!) These move far more air than the JL's in any of their configurations, and play lower and louder to boot! I don't think I've actually HEARD 21hz before!
Hopefully it will be warm enough tomorrow night to show some ppl what I am talking about in regards to bodyflex, either way you'll enjoy your introduction to Wicked Ones! I know I have!
BTW there's yet more pics up on that link now...and more to come tomorrow!
The day started out fine and ended up GREAT with a few patches of Oooops thrown in for good measure!
We got the 36x36 box with dual Z12W-2's installed and wired up off of the Z8000. After setting the crossover to an acceptable level we had a bit of a play... VERY Impressive but it seemed that the amplifier was running out of power before the subs would give up. That's when the BIG GUNS can out to play! We installed a A7HC and rewired the subs for a 1ohm load (so 1400w RMS) installed the remote gain control and had nother play. Holy !#!@# WOW! Unbelievable the amount of output from this thing. I'm not too sure if many of you remember the tube enclosures I had inthe Excel running off og GMHVNS's Shredder amp? Well these almost rivalled the amount of bodyflex!
We played around with the EQ settings and really had it pumping, when suddenly POOF! Oooopsy Daisy there went the subs! I guess in retrospect putting 1400w RMS into 400w speakers wasn't such a great idea... Luckily we had access to a pair of BEAST 12's (2ohm VC, 600w RMS) and with some minor modifications fit them into the box. BTW there was planty of smoke once the lid was removed from the box and the magnets of the deceased Z12W-2's were rather uhmmm warm?
OK so now we had 1400w of power into 600w RMS speakers and it was time to give it Hell! Let me just say it is incredibly lucky that the Excel hatch is still connected to the car! The amount odf movement in the rear hatch has to be seen to be believed (granted it was a warm day but CRAP MAN!) These move far more air than the JL's in any of their configurations, and play lower and louder to boot! I don't think I've actually HEARD 21hz before!
Hopefully it will be warm enough tomorrow night to show some ppl what I am talking about in regards to bodyflex, either way you'll enjoy your introduction to Wicked Ones! I know I have!
BTW there's yet more pics up on that link now...and more to come tomorrow!
send me one of the boxes up, i wanna play
WAY TO GO BONES!!!!!!
Well I will be in Melbourne for MAS so wanna hear/feel this Wicked thing!!
Given how much you change things, keep it will ya?
Well I will be in Melbourne for MAS so wanna hear/feel this Wicked thing!!
Given how much you change things, keep it will ya?
Bones: how would you recomend this setup(with the 2 10's) for home theater(sp). Does it rely a fair bit on loading? or should it be okay as a coffee table .
I saw you mention the 12" version plays very low, but what about with the 10's.
Finally, do you think doing this with venoms would be a waste of time?
Thanks in advance.
Bob
I saw you mention the 12" version plays very low, but what about with the 10's.
Finally, do you think doing this with venoms would be a waste of time?
Thanks in advance.
Bob
QUOTE
Originally posted by bobic:
Does it rely a fair bit on loading? or should it be okay as a coffee table .
well i heard it this afternoon with the hatch open, and compared to the hatch being closed, the bass is pretty dismal....Does it rely a fair bit on loading? or should it be okay as a coffee table .
**** this box is loud tho scott, you've done it again..
I'm very keen to attempt making one of these boxes for my 2 10"s but I have one question that I can't seem to find out on the website. How do I calculate the position of the speaker baffle and hence calculate the volume of the sealed chamber? Can I use WinISD and if so what type of box do I tell it I'm making? Please tell me if this is a stupid question.
Also since this is a bloody big box and my car is a daily driver that I use the boot for I was thinking of making the box in parts so it could be installed in the car for comps and then taken out for daily use. Can anyone see a problem with this as long as I use stacks of screws to put it together (I was going to make the sections between the top and the bottom in 3 pieces and also have the top and bottom separate if this makes sense).
Also since this is a bloody big box and my car is a daily driver that I use the boot for I was thinking of making the box in parts so it could be installed in the car for comps and then taken out for daily use. Can anyone see a problem with this as long as I use stacks of screws to put it together (I was going to make the sections between the top and the bottom in 3 pieces and also have the top and bottom separate if this makes sense).
I saw these two enclosures last night at the Melb meet...
D A M N !!!
These enclosures are the loudest things I've ever heard (or felt)!!
It plays so damn LOW it's scary!
If you want an SPL enclosure without having it fill up the whole damn car, this is it!!!
Words cannot express what it can do with a couple of 10's or 12's....
[ February 02, 2003, 12:28: Message edited by: hardon ]
D A M N !!!
These enclosures are the loudest things I've ever heard (or felt)!!
It plays so damn LOW it's scary!
If you want an SPL enclosure without having it fill up the whole damn car, this is it!!!
Words cannot express what it can do with a couple of 10's or 12's....
[ February 02, 2003, 12:28: Message edited by: hardon ]
Get this thing on a meter ASAP!!!
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.